Help with bleeding
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2013
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Help with bleeding
I have a 1979 f250 2wd with a 351w in it. After reading everything I possibly could read on bleeding/ replacing brakes I thought I was ready so I replaced everything involved with brakes. New power booster, MC, ss lines, prop valve, calipers etc. Everything was going good until I went to blead the front brakes. I know you have to hold the little pin out on certain trucks and push it in on heavy duty trucks. The only problem I have is that I cant push it in or get anything on the hold it out. The prop valve I got was the one from jbg. Any tips out there for this instance?
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2018
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Hmm I know on the factory PV the pin is easily accessible, I am not familiar with the JBG PV......can you grab onto the end of it with needle nose pliers?
Hard to tell in the pic but it looks like there's a "groove" on the end of the pin head? if so, there's a special tool specifically for that purpose, it inserts into the groove and pulls the pin out so you can properly bleed the front calipers.
Hard to tell in the pic but it looks like there's a "groove" on the end of the pin head? if so, there's a special tool specifically for that purpose, it inserts into the groove and pulls the pin out so you can properly bleed the front calipers.
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The pic isnt the best. There isnt a groove on the pin its kind of just smooth/ rounded and I cant get any needle nose pliers on it
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2018
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Is the nut that's around the pin a sealing nut? or no? Like I stated I am not familiar with the JBG PV so I am not sure, there must be a way to bleed it......I wish I could be of more help, but someone here must know....
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I might have figured it out. I loosened the nut on the end there and took the plunger out. There was a little white washer between the cap and plunger that I took out. When I put it back together without the washer, I can now push the plunger in. Note to self you need the washer
Elder User
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I can't recall offhand but I remember it being GVRW specific.....the higher weights required the pin be pushed IN, the lower weights required the pin be pulled OUT.
I think the GVWR split was 6700lbs? but I am not certain.
I think the GVWR split was 6700lbs? but I am not certain.
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Prop valve
Keep an eye on that prop valve.. i went through 3 of them from jeffs bronco graveyard. They seem to leak around that pin. I finally gave up and fitted the truck with a mustang master and a jeep cherokee vavle.
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Vicksburg, MS
I put a new "PV2" proportioning valve, calipers, MC, and lines on my truck several months ago. The brakes were never really right. They were soft, even after several bleedings. It's been in the shop getting prepped for paint since then, so I haven't done further troubleshooting.
I never knew what to do with the pin because the instructions didn't say, and I never found anything online. So, this is the first I have heard of holing the pin out while bleeding. Does anyone have further guidance on the procedure?
I never knew what to do with the pin because the instructions didn't say, and I never found anything online. So, this is the first I have heard of holing the pin out while bleeding. Does anyone have further guidance on the procedure?
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Mine was leaking out of the pin when I took the little white washer off from inside on the plunger. That was the only way I could move the pin. Has anyone used an after market one? I have discs up front and drums in the rear. How does the brake light sensor hook up to an after market prop valve? Or do you omit that?