1950 Ford engine swap advice
#1
1950 Ford engine swap advice
I'm replacing the original flathead 6 engine and tranny in my 1950 ford f2 with a 1976 302 and a c6 transmission. I plan to do the swap myself and was wondering if anyone out there has done a similar swap and might have any specific advice on what they ran into.
#2
In the mean time show us pictures of your truck and tell us about it.
#3
Join Date: Jul 1997
Location: Beautiful Hueytown Alabam
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Cole, welcome to FTE from me too. There are lots of guys here that have done it and done it over... they will be along shortly.. it's not a major deal .,.. a 302 will fit nicely and push your truck well. Here';s an article on general info that may or may not be helpful
later
john
https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/en...e_mounting.htm
later
john
https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/en...e_mounting.htm
#4
The 302 is a great engine for these trucks and fits nicely in the space. The C6, on the other hand, has it's share of issues. It's a great transmission, one of the best ever made, but robs a lot of horsepower and was intended for use behind big block engines with a lot more hp and torque to spare. It will turn the 302 into a dog. It's also very large compared to an AOD or C4, and may require surgery on the floor or frame to make fit. My 2c, fwiw.
#5
#6
Hi Cole,
Welcome to FTE. I am not using the 302/C6 combination that you have planned rather the original flathead V8 with a Ford 4R70W automatic on my 1950 F2. I chose that automatic as it eliminates the fiddly throttle cable and is all electronic. The only down side is that your wiring harnesses get bigger. But since we have lots of room in these trucks it is not a problem. The only piece of advice that I can give you is that you will probably want to move your radiator assembly and front mount to the rear V8 holes vs the front I6 holes.
Also always remember that we like pictures.
.
Welcome to FTE. I am not using the 302/C6 combination that you have planned rather the original flathead V8 with a Ford 4R70W automatic on my 1950 F2. I chose that automatic as it eliminates the fiddly throttle cable and is all electronic. The only down side is that your wiring harnesses get bigger. But since we have lots of room in these trucks it is not a problem. The only piece of advice that I can give you is that you will probably want to move your radiator assembly and front mount to the rear V8 holes vs the front I6 holes.
Also always remember that we like pictures.
.
#7
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#10
#11
Sorry Dan, it's missing the exhaust manifold and I know they're not easy to find. that's why I'm replacing the engine with the 302, parts are everywhere. I'll be Taking what's left of the 6 cylinder to a swap meet.
#12
#13
The easiest way to mount a small block Ford in one of these trucks is to use one of these:
and the best deal I've seen on them is here:
https://www.ebay.com/i/172316715198?chn=ps
That crossmember uses late 1966 Mustang 289 motor mounts to attach to any small block Ford. The Mustang mounts are cheap and easy to get. I just bought a pair recently on RockAuto for less than $5 apiece. There are several different styles and depths of transmission crossmembers available also. You can easily offset the powertrain package an inch or so to the passenger side with that crossmember also - something that you may well find is necessary to get adequate exhaust/steering box clearance. Just remember to keep the engine and transmission running straight and parallel to the frame. Offset but parallel = no problem. Engine and transmission not parallel to the frame = driveline vibration problems.
Even though the original transmission crossmember in your F2 has a wide transmission passthrough, you might still need to smokewrench it to get that C6 crammed in there. That tranny is a behemoth and may not fit through it. Besides just holding up the transmission and mounting the pedals/master cylinder, the original crossmember provides critical support to the mid-section of the frame that keeps the rails tied together at the top and bottom to prevent them from twisting. That must be added back in correctly with the replacement crossmember or else your running boards will feel more like diving boards when you stand on them and you'll risk permanent damage to the frame from road flex. And I do agree with Wayne. That C6 would probably be my absolute last choice for an automatic transmission. It is a great transmission, but way to much for a 302 - sort of the equivalent to driving an 18 wheeler 3 blocks to the local 7-Eleven to pick up a gallon of milk. It'll get the job done, but there are much better alternatives. Unless it has been changed, your truck has a Timken rear axle with a 4.56:1 or so gear ratio. That was great for an underpowered 6-banger with a stick shift in a 3/4 ton work truck, but it's awfully low for a decent 302 and an automatic transmission. If you're going to the trouble to do the swap, you should really consider a transmission with an overdrive gear. An older all-hydraulic AOD would be a good choice of you don't want to mess with a bunch of wiring. The electronically-shifted descendants of the AOD are the AOD-E and the 4R70W which Pete mentioned. They would also be great choices, but either will require a $700 electronics package and a day's worth of wiring to make them work behind an old school carbureted 302.
Another option would be to keep the C6 and swap the rear axle out for one with a better gear ratio instead. A Dana 60 out of a '67-'72 F-250 is nearly a bolt-in swap and the ratio in those units is often a more highway -friendly 3.73:1. It's something to think about. I can almost guarantee that you will not be at all happy with the top speed or drivability of the truck with a 302, C6, and that axle.
and the best deal I've seen on them is here:
https://www.ebay.com/i/172316715198?chn=ps
That crossmember uses late 1966 Mustang 289 motor mounts to attach to any small block Ford. The Mustang mounts are cheap and easy to get. I just bought a pair recently on RockAuto for less than $5 apiece. There are several different styles and depths of transmission crossmembers available also. You can easily offset the powertrain package an inch or so to the passenger side with that crossmember also - something that you may well find is necessary to get adequate exhaust/steering box clearance. Just remember to keep the engine and transmission running straight and parallel to the frame. Offset but parallel = no problem. Engine and transmission not parallel to the frame = driveline vibration problems.
Even though the original transmission crossmember in your F2 has a wide transmission passthrough, you might still need to smokewrench it to get that C6 crammed in there. That tranny is a behemoth and may not fit through it. Besides just holding up the transmission and mounting the pedals/master cylinder, the original crossmember provides critical support to the mid-section of the frame that keeps the rails tied together at the top and bottom to prevent them from twisting. That must be added back in correctly with the replacement crossmember or else your running boards will feel more like diving boards when you stand on them and you'll risk permanent damage to the frame from road flex. And I do agree with Wayne. That C6 would probably be my absolute last choice for an automatic transmission. It is a great transmission, but way to much for a 302 - sort of the equivalent to driving an 18 wheeler 3 blocks to the local 7-Eleven to pick up a gallon of milk. It'll get the job done, but there are much better alternatives. Unless it has been changed, your truck has a Timken rear axle with a 4.56:1 or so gear ratio. That was great for an underpowered 6-banger with a stick shift in a 3/4 ton work truck, but it's awfully low for a decent 302 and an automatic transmission. If you're going to the trouble to do the swap, you should really consider a transmission with an overdrive gear. An older all-hydraulic AOD would be a good choice of you don't want to mess with a bunch of wiring. The electronically-shifted descendants of the AOD are the AOD-E and the 4R70W which Pete mentioned. They would also be great choices, but either will require a $700 electronics package and a day's worth of wiring to make them work behind an old school carbureted 302.
Another option would be to keep the C6 and swap the rear axle out for one with a better gear ratio instead. A Dana 60 out of a '67-'72 F-250 is nearly a bolt-in swap and the ratio in those units is often a more highway -friendly 3.73:1. It's something to think about. I can almost guarantee that you will not be at all happy with the top speed or drivability of the truck with a 302, C6, and that axle.
#14
Thank you, that's a lot of the information I was looking for, I knew I would eventually have to swap the rear end but it's so far ahead of where I'm at right now I was gonna make that a separate thread. The c6 Came with the 302 and I was hoping i would be able to make it work but I can find used AOD's or c4 transmissions decently priced so I think I'll go with one of those and skip the hassle of trying to make it fit. you've been a big help, I'm glad you responded and thanks for all the info.
#15
Good luck trying to sell it at the swap meet. I'm not sure there's much of a market for the sixes. Like you, a lot of people end up swiping them out for a V-8,