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Driving down to Charleston today, after 2 1/2 hours after completely normal driving in overdrive, all of a sudden the engine decides to buck and lose power for maybe a second and a half, after that it drives normal but now I feel like there’s a slight loss of power and the idle feels a bit light as well, I’m not sure if I’m overthinking it or not but 3 hours away from home I’d like to get it fixed if it’s something simple instead of being stranded in the southern summer heat, thanks guys
Try unplugging the fuel bowl heater.
Have you unplugged the ICP pigtail and looked in the plug for oil?
Both free n easy enough to do at a fuel station/rest stop with no tools
Try unplugging the fuel bowl heater.
Have you unplugged the ICP pigtail and looked in the plug for oil?
Both free n easy enough to do at a fuel station/rest stop with no tools
What would unplugging the fuel bowl heater do out of curiosity? I have yet to check the icp for oil but it’s been replaced in the past year and a half I believe. At first glance it still looks somewhat new, icp was replaced at the same time but it’s the grey one, I’ve heard the black ones are the good ones.
Got back on the interstate today, still feels funky, I got on it sped from 70 to 80 to pass someone and as i came into the lane it did the same thing, acted like the injectors sneezed and bucked back and forth for a second, after that it was normal, trucks also developed a vibration as well that didn’t happen the other day.
If the problem is associated with stomping the go pedal that sounds like a lack of fuel pressure. Screens in the tank can get blocked by crud, and while they can flow enough fuel for normal duty they cannot keep up with heavy fuel demand. The temp fix is pulling the fuel line off the back of the fuel pump and blowing shop air back thru the line. Remove the fuel filler cap first. The air will blow the crud off the screens and let it flow properly for a while. If that works, the Hutch and Harpoon mods are in your future.
Also as mentioned above pull the harness for the ICP sensor and look for oil seepage, that seems like a good idea. And check the tin nut on the IPR, make sure it is snugged up.
If the problem is associated with stomping the go pedal that sounds like a lack of fuel pressure. Screens in the tank can get blocked by crud, and while they can flow enough fuel for normal duty they cannot keep up with heavy fuel demand. The temp fix is pulling the fuel line off the back of the fuel pump and blowing shop air back thru the line. Remove the fuel filler cap first. The air will blow the crud off the screens and let it flow properly for a while. If that works, the Hutch and Harpoon mods are in your future.
Also as mentioned above pull the harness for the ICP sensor and look for oil seepage, that seems like a good idea. And check the tin nut on the IPR, make sure it is snugged up.
Roger that, I’m gonna try to pick up some new screens from Ford today and drop the tank, fairly certain that it hasn’t been cleaned in the past 245K miles, the nut on the ipr is snug as can be.
I would never replace the screens.
Hutch mod it and be done with that problem for ever.
The hutch mod would just eleminate the screens all together though right? It’s my understanding that I’d need a FASS pump or air dog to get rid of all the crap right?
Have you checked your valve cover connections? How about the 42-pin? The bundle has a tendency to rub on the valve cover.
I haven’t checked both valve connection covers, the drivers side on the outside looks good, nothing rubbing up on it, and no there’s no lights on the dash at all
The hutch mod would just eleminate the screens all together though right? It’s my understanding that I’d need a FASS pump or air dog to get rid of all the crap right?
All you need is an inline screen. A racor ps120 is a popular option.
Tin nut on the back of the IPR. If it is loose it can do this. I had this problem recently. The nut on mine had actually fallen off. Its on the back side of the fuel bowl. If the nut has fallen off, it will be in the valley below the IPR. Could also be camshaft position sensor.
The hutch mod would just eleminate the screens all together though right? It’s my understanding that I’d need a FASS pump or air dog to get rid of all the crap right?
Originally Posted by HD Rider
All you need is an inline screen. A racor ps120 is a popular option.
It eliminates the pickup screen requirement by adding a pre-pump filter external to the tank (Racor PS120-02 is the current popular one as HD Rider mentioned) and connects everything via fuel hose. This eliminates the quick-connect lines in the pump suction and reduces the amount of air sucked into the lines and pushed through the system (and ultimately through the injectors into the cylinders).
No need to replace anthing from the fuel pump forward for this. I had my original fuel pump until earlier this year when I replaced it with my injector upgrade. It was still running good but figured it was tired at 305K miles and a fresh pump was a good idea for my new single shots.
Finally got around to replacing my fuel bowl today, upon inspecting my ICP sensor, there is oil in it once again. It's been changed within the last year and a half give or take, oh well, gonna pick one up next week and see if it eliminates the "hiccup"