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I have the adjustable AC Delco same as Moog camber/caster bushings. I have a 1 1/2" level (Spacer). I had a big off road place that said the adjustable bushings I had were no problem to work with. These are my current numbers. Camber and caster are the same as before numbers. The toe has been changed only. The tech said he couldn't work with my bushings because it would take forever to adjust them. I'm not going to argue with that type of person. He said I needed two preset bushings of 3 3/4 on the driver side and 2 3/4 on the passenger side. Ford does not have these. I need to adjust them the best I can or remove the spacers and go back to stock. Can someone please tell me from the info here what to set the adjustable bushings at based on the printout so I can get them as close as possible to the recommendations? Thanks Sandy
You can't set the new bushings up without knowing what correction bushings are in it now. Assuming that the mech knew, set the new adj ones to his recommendations and check alignment. Or install them at "0" and check alignment,remove,adj, install and check again. Not making excuses for him,it can be time consuming.
Thanks Briansshop. I had just installed them and took them over there set at 0. Per the recommendations above now in bold and using the chart, what settings per the chart should I use. I am somewhat confused about which side of the chart I should refer to as this is new to me. Thanks Sandy My wheels are very positive now \ /
Looking a little closer, I don't think you'll be able to get it Sandy. You have pos camber now so you need negative correction and the bushings will only allow 2 degrees negative. I think the problem is the knuckle will hit the beam at more than -2 degrees.
Looking a little closer, I don't think you'll be able to get it Sandy. You have pos camber now so you need negative correction and the bushings will only allow 2 degrees negative. I think the problem is the knuckle will hit the beam at more than -2 degrees.
That's what I thought. He and the owner were talking with me there, and they were talking about shaving the knuckle for the clearance. Now I know what they meant. I don't mind using a grinder if is prudent to do so. If you think not, what settings will get me to the -2 degrees? It appears that it would be Z A over C? These are the negative numbers that are on the right side at the bottom. Thanks again for your help. If this will get me close I don't really care about tire wear as my mileage is limited. Sandy
You'd want to go AL to get the most caster correction. 2 degrees camber correction isn't going to do it though,just won't be enough. 2 degrees will still be very obvious to the eye. I'd wouldn't have a prob doing a little clearance work on the beam. Just depends on how much it'd need.
You'd want to go AL to get the most caster correction. 2 degrees camber correction isn't going to do it though,just won't be enough. 2 degrees will still be very obvious to the eye. I'd wouldn't have a prob doing a little clearance work on the beam. Just depends on how much it'd need.
I think it might be best for me to remove the spacers and put the original bushings back in. I sure like the level look though. If I was going to grind it, which numbers or degrees would I set the adj bushings at to check how much would need to come off? If I do that I will take it back to them and get it all checked out. What do you think is best for me to do now that we are on the same page. I can live with it either way. Sandy
I'd set them at 2 and install to see how close the knuckle/beams are. That'd give you an idea how much grinding you'd need to get 2 degrees more correction. If it looks doable,go for it. If not, remove the spacers and go back.
I'd set them at 2 and install to see how close the knuckle/beams are. That'd give you an idea how much grinding you'd need to get 2 degrees more correction. If it looks doable,go for it. If not, remove the spacers and go back.
OK that's what I will do. Just to be sure, should go to 2 degrees positive or negative on the camber. Thanks Sandy
That would be the A over L the way I see it. If that is it no reply is necessary. You have done plenty enough already and I really appreciate your time with me. I'll let you know what I find out. Thank you so much. Sandy
It will allow +/- 3 degrees of camber adjustment. I do believe, as stated above, you'll have to do some grinding. IIRC you are in Houston area. Let me know if you need help.
P.S. -
If they do not correct the caster split, the truck will seem to 'drift' towards the right side of the road.
It will allow +/- 3 degrees of camber adjustment. I do believe, as stated above, you'll have to do some grinding. IIRC you are in Houston area. Let me know if you need help.
P.S. -
If they do not correct the caster split, the truck will seem to 'drift' towards the right side of the road.
I never saw where they said 3 degrees positive or negative. All I saw was 3 degrees. If you saw + or - let me know where please. The company has a phone number for customer service so I can them Monday morning. It would be a nice help if they will work. Thank you. I am in Sugar Land and I think you are in the Woodlands IIRC. Thanks for the help offer. let me see what happens if they work and if I have issues. I can PM you. Thanks again Sandy
I never saw where they said 3 degrees positive or negative. All I saw was 3 degrees. If you saw + or - let me know where please. The company has a phone number for customer service so I can them Monday morning. It would be a nice help if they will work. Thank you. I am in Sugar Land and I think you are in the Woodlands IIRC. Thanks for the help offer. let me see what happens if they work and if I have issues. I can PM you. Thanks again Sandy
Rockauto had the +/- stated. They can be rotated to adjust caster/camber. I am in Tomball.
Thanks. I had looked at the Amazon ad. Just checked it out on RA and ordered a pair. I now recall you being in Tomball. Thanks again for the info. Hopefully those will be close enough and will minimize grinding. I'll let you know what happens. Sandy