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bought new coils and plugs. Plugs are 135,000 old and coils are original.
Replaced #1 for practice. Went smooth
replaced #4 - on of the hard to get to in the back. Went smoothish
now figured I would replace the rest. Bought stainless coil pack bolts for good measure
went out today to swap the coil pack bolt on #1. Got out my trusty 7mm socket...and rounded it off? So figured try #2. Well, it’s rounded off now also.
Also, the coil pack screws on the V10's are 7mm? I would have thought they were the same as the Gen 2 L's and used 8mm bolts.
Stewart
Edit: Did I read that correctly? You practiced by replacing the number one cylinder, then went back the next month and the same number 1 cylinder now stripped on you?
Last edited by Stewart_H; Jul 20, 2018 at 04:02 PM.
Yep. When I did it the first time I used the old coil bolt. Since I replaced the them, I bought the stainless bolts and thought this would be a simple swap.
The engine was warm, but I thought that would make it easier.
So tried plug 7. The coil bolt came out without an issue. So replaced plug and coil.
Then applied for my man card and got it. Did plug #5. It took more than 20 minutes to do plug #5. Something like 120 minutes or so. But I did it. These are my hands after
I kind of hate to bring this up now that you are done...........but did you use never-seize on the stainless bolts that are threaded into aluminum? It's always a good idea to use it in that situation, stainless likes to gall (break and pull the threads out) of aluminum, the never-seize helps to prevent that. Actually, using it on almost anything with threads is a positive measure as it does make getting it apart later much easier. Works well on the mating surfaces of the wheels to rotors too, keeps them for bonding together due to the different metals. Its messy to deal with and seems to get everywhere but I use it a lot.
Plus no need to over tighten those coil bolts, they don’t need to be on there super tight. Agree #5 is a pain, but not too bad if you remove some hoses and the triangular plate held by 3 nuts. Dirty hands go with that job.
Plus no need to over tighten those coil bolts, they don’t need to be on there super tight.
I can't remember how many miles I've put on my Lightning (and the previous 2003 F150 I owned) where I purposely left coil screws out of the COP and ran with them unsecured, without ever having one misfire or ignition problem.
Snug it a hair past finger tight and you're good to go.
Having coil pack screw extenders on the L makes plug changes easy too.
So finished all the plugs. #1 and #4 which I did before still had the OEM coil bolts. I figured I would change them. Pounded on a 1/4 inch socket and got the bolt out. While replacing #4 coil bolt I dropped it somewhere on the intake.
I found the firat problem with stainless steel. It’s not magnetic.
So so I tried with pliers and fingers and could not find it. In a moment of stupidity I pulled out the coil and the bolt fell into the spark plug hole.
Could not figure out how to get that bolt out. Went to Walmart and Home Depot and while looking for a long curves flexible pick up device, I got an idea. I went home and filled a 5/8 socket with plumbers putty and put it in the hole and out come the bolt.
A 10 minute bolt swap turned into a 2 hour ordeal.
But its it’s all done now. 10 new plugs, 8 new coils, oil change and air filter.