Axle narrowing Idea?
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 57
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From: Spanaway,WA
Axle narrowing Idea?
So most people like myself don’t have the money to have someone narrow a rear end nor do I want to buy a $600 jig to use once. So let’s say I want narrow my rear 4” keeping the same bearing cups. I leave a few inches of meat on the ends near the bearing races and cut out to desired length. To weld up I clamp 2 pieces of C channel to keep a tight alignment tack it in and weld. I know to do it “right” a jig would be best to keep axles from binding. Anyone have any better pointers or tips?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
If you have the correct length axles already, leave the gearset installed in the housing. Once you clamp the tubes slip the axle in. If they fit easily into the ends, then the ends should be pretty close. Tack in four places and recheck. Then weld fully in one motion to keep bending to a minimum. Grind a full V on both halves of tube so you get full weld.
Once welded, if the axles don't fit smoothly into the ends, put some weld on the side of the tube that needs pulled. Weld a patch about 1" square or so. Cool with wet rag. Then retry axles. The weld/cool will pull the tube to that side.
If you can find the spacers for the housing/ends, the tube can be just a piece of DOM that fits the bore of the spacers. I made a set of spacers for my friend and he bought the piece of DOM pipe. I've seen a solid bar be used, but the pipe is MUCH lighter.
Here is spacers:
https://www.jegs.com/i/Mittler-Broth...002-2/10002/-1
Once welded, if the axles don't fit smoothly into the ends, put some weld on the side of the tube that needs pulled. Weld a patch about 1" square or so. Cool with wet rag. Then retry axles. The weld/cool will pull the tube to that side.
If you can find the spacers for the housing/ends, the tube can be just a piece of DOM that fits the bore of the spacers. I made a set of spacers for my friend and he bought the piece of DOM pipe. I've seen a solid bar be used, but the pipe is MUCH lighter.
Here is spacers:
https://www.jegs.com/i/Mittler-Broth...002-2/10002/-1
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,888
Likes: 4,119
From: Angier, NC
Unless you can sleeve where the cut/weld is it will be weak in that spot in my book.
You did not say what rear you have or what you will be using it for, say like just weekend drives or hauling 10k all the time.
If you can how wide is an Explorer 8.8 rear?
Most have 3.73 gear with LS & disc brakes.
If still to wide 1 side has a longer tube/axle than the other.
Get another short axle cut the long side tube at the housing and pull out the part left behind.
Fit the cut tube back in, weld it up, install other short axle and you are on the road.
Dave - - - -
You did not say what rear you have or what you will be using it for, say like just weekend drives or hauling 10k all the time.
If you can how wide is an Explorer 8.8 rear?
Most have 3.73 gear with LS & disc brakes.
If still to wide 1 side has a longer tube/axle than the other.
Get another short axle cut the long side tube at the housing and pull out the part left behind.
Fit the cut tube back in, weld it up, install other short axle and you are on the road.
Dave - - - -
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Spanaway,WA
Unless you can sleeve where the cut/weld is it will be weak in that spot in my book.
You did not say what rear you have or what you will be using it for, say like just weekend drives or hauling 10k all the time.
If you can how wide is an Explorer 8.8 rear?
Most have 3.73 gear with LS & disc brakes.
If still to wide 1 side has a longer tube/axle than the other.
Get another short axle cut the long side tube at the housing and pull out the part left behind.
Fit the cut tube back in, weld it up, install other short axle and you are on the road.
Dave - - - -
You did not say what rear you have or what you will be using it for, say like just weekend drives or hauling 10k all the time.
If you can how wide is an Explorer 8.8 rear?
Most have 3.73 gear with LS & disc brakes.
If still to wide 1 side has a longer tube/axle than the other.
Get another short axle cut the long side tube at the housing and pull out the part left behind.
Fit the cut tube back in, weld it up, install other short axle and you are on the road.
Dave - - - -
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
There has to be leeway to get them together straight. Unless the center housing and tubes were perfect, the end flange needs to be offset some to align it.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,888
Likes: 4,119
From: Angier, NC
If properly prepped(chamfered) and welded it is as strong as anything else. They are all done this way. The new ends you buy are already chamfered and ready to weld to your housing.
There has to be leeway to get them together straight. Unless the center housing and tubes were perfect, the end flange needs to be offset some to align it.
There has to be leeway to get them together straight. Unless the center housing and tubes were perfect, the end flange needs to be offset some to align it.
It might be nice to look under and see a shorten 9" with meats, so how much for shorter axles with bearing & races, new bearing ends and someone to cut and weld the ends on straight?
Do you have LS center in your 9" and disc brakes?
For what you want a 8.8 will work and most likely be cheaper even buying the 2nd shorter axle and you can weld the short tube at home with a 110v MIG welder.
I know guys drag race cars with 390 motors with rears done this way.
If you want to play with the big boys with a shorter 9" and big meats you have to pay the price.
If it don't come out right you get to spend more money to do it all over again plus maybe axles & new carrier.
Let us know how it comes out with pictures, we love pictures.
Dave -----
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