When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a small bearing 9" rearend that I would like to use with the large bearing mounting hardware (ubolts, spring plates)...has anyone found a 2.8 to 3.0 inch axle tube adapter? I am thinking about just taking some 3 inch OD tubing and fabricating a half-round piece that will sit on top of the axle tube that will allow me to use the larger ubolts but I'd buy them if I knew of a source.
I searched all the vendors with no luck so I took an old Corvette driveshaft I had laying out back and I cut off about a 5 inch section, split it down the middle, and laid it on the top of the axle tube where the u-bolts mount. Works like a charm!
Charlie, my concern would be safety. With that cut off piece and the split it in, I'm not sure if that hold well under force or torque? The other thing I suggest is hitting a junkyard and taking the U bolts, shock plates and anything else off the small bearing 9 inch rear end. Can't cost much?
Boy, after re-reading this thread I now see what you are trying to do. My first thought is the proper U-bolts and plates can be found. My second thought is I would weld the "spacer" half-round onto the housing to prevent it from slipping under load. As for converting from big bearing to small bearing and vice versa, Moser has the parts to do it.
I bought the "flip kit" from MidFifty and wanted to use the lower shock mount that comes with the spring plate. The old u-bolts would not work with the new plate. Here's a couple of pics of what it looks like, I don't see any safety issues...I don't think that anything is going to move once it's bolted up.
Looks good to me, I guess. As a safety measure, I would just re-torque the U-bolts after a 100 miles or so. (It's recommended when installing lift kits in newer trucks.)
Charlie I'm assuming that you moved the spring perches to the bottom of the tube and welded or will weld them back onto the tube after you reset the pinion angle. I would suggest you weld the spacer to the tube also. Other than that looks good. If you need any help at all just holler we're practially neighbors, seriuosly I'm in Granite Hills.
Interesting note about the perches...the axle housing is pictured above in bare metal (under the spacers) because I cut the perches off at that location and moved them under the axle tube. The spacers are aluminum so a little epoxy is in order to hold them in place. The rearend came out of an early 70's Mustang which must have had wider leaf springs because the perches are wider than the F100 leafs. Closer inspection will reveal the cuts that I had to make in the perches to facilitate the narrower holes in the mounting plate. I still need to clean up the perches before paint and final assembly. I really like the shock studs as pictured...I am in the process of fabricating a new upper shock mount bar so that I can use the studs on the top as well.
I have a 1960 F100 with a flipped rear end that I picked up as a project. I need to install rear shocks (missing) and a rear mounting position (also missing). Looking at it I think I Need a plate to bolt to the bottom of my u-bolts with a male end for a female shock end to attach to.
Originally Posted by CharlieLed
I bought the "flip kit" from MidFifty and wanted to use the lower shock mount that comes with the spring plate. The old u-bolts would not work with the new plate. Here's a couple of pics of what it looks like, I don't see any safety issues...I don't think that anything is going to move once it's bolted up.
It looks like this Mid50 "flip kit" would work.
I'm having trouble locating it on their web-catalog or in my print catalog. Can someone guide me to finding one of these "flip-kits."
These from Summits look like they might work. Anyone ever used it on a flipped '60 rear end before?
Torque is an amazing thing. I recommend welding everything strongly. No matter how tight you think your bolts are, your axle could spin in your spacers and pull the driveshaft out of the end of the transmission. That could lead to a pole-vault situation, which happens often at the drag races when the front u-joint breaks, and that's never a good thing. That's why NHRA requires a driveshaft hoop on all cars capable of going over certain speeds.
"Axle above spring" kit is at the bottom of page 149 in the Midfifty 2010 Catalog.
The 2009 Midfifty has the kit on page 149 as well since I apparently don't have the newest catalog. Looks like they're listing Axle Above Spring passenger and driver and two shock studs. That should work.
Very nice. Now I have two options. Options are always good.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.