F500 Brake Job
#61
Front drums should be the same as back drums correct? Back is 14”
whatbare the metal pieces that stick into the ends of the wheel cylinders called? I’m hoping to clean mine and reuse.
when I buy the wheel cylinders, do they generally come with the bleeder valve already installed or at least in the box? Or do I have to order them separate?
whatbare the metal pieces that stick into the ends of the wheel cylinders called? I’m hoping to clean mine and reuse.
when I buy the wheel cylinders, do they generally come with the bleeder valve already installed or at least in the box? Or do I have to order them separate?
Here are the parts for the wheel cylinders:
Some "may" come with new bleeders. But if not, get new bleeder valves. They're like $.99 at Napa. I wouldn't advise reusing them at all. And when you put these brake fittings back together, you'll find that you need to tighten them with a standard length wrench until you literally can't tighten them anymore. Otherwise they'll leak. Don't put your body weight on it. Just use your arm muscles until you're finding that you're grunting.
#62
#65
#66
When I was involved in qualifying brakes and brake systems on Peterbilt and Kenworth trucks for FMVSS-121 in 1973 we had thermocouples installed on all brake shoes on trucks of various configurations, all maxed out on GCW, and performed 100 controlled stops from predetermined speeds on various road surface skid coefficients. We tested Wagner, Firestone, Kelsey-Hayes, Westinghouse, and in-house designed systems. IIRC, the highest temp attained was 960°F on the right front of a conventional truck*. Bonded lining was originally considered to be included in the test series but due to the bonding media (at the time, 1973) was considered inadequate due to the expected high temperatures. Sorry, pics are on the other 'puter.
Just sayin'.
*Some truck tractors had no front brakes.
The series of tests I was involved with were on a test track and did not include gradients, brake fanning, and fade. The other guys did that and I never saw the results.
#67
#70
#71
Nice work, you're making good progress. No need to get new wheel cylinder links, those should clean up fine.
Now would be a good time to remove the axles and hubs to inspect and pack the wheel bearings and replace the bearing seals while you're waiting for the new parts to arrive.
It was a very crowded cab with all the instrumentation.
Now would be a good time to remove the axles and hubs to inspect and pack the wheel bearings and replace the bearing seals while you're waiting for the new parts to arrive.
It was a very crowded cab with all the instrumentation.
#72
https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_m...ford-only.html
#73
Sending shoes out tomorrow to Fort Wayne Indiana to get relined. They said they will remove old material, sandblast, paint, rivet and bond new brake material
I was able to find the following parts at Rockauto.com:
Wheel Cylinders:
Rear Upper Wheel Cylinder: Doorman W28850 (OEM B8T-2261-A) - 2 needed
Rear Lower Wheel Cylinder: Doorman W37151 (OEM B8T-2262-A) - 2 needed
Dust Covers:
SUR&R BB21 (bleeder valve cover) -1 bag of 5
Doorman 13964 (backing plate cover) -1 bag of 4
Hopefully I have ordered the right parts. Off now to start cleaning.
I was able to find the following parts at Rockauto.com:
Wheel Cylinders:
Rear Upper Wheel Cylinder: Doorman W28850 (OEM B8T-2261-A) - 2 needed
Rear Lower Wheel Cylinder: Doorman W37151 (OEM B8T-2262-A) - 2 needed
Dust Covers:
SUR&R BB21 (bleeder valve cover) -1 bag of 5
Doorman 13964 (backing plate cover) -1 bag of 4
Hopefully I have ordered the right parts. Off now to start cleaning.
#74