F500 Brake Job
 

I am beginning to get my rims and tires. I figured while everything is off and truck is on jack stands, I may as well go ahead and replace the brakes. Truck does currently have brakes but has been sitting in a barn for 30+ years, I'm sure they need some attention. The Emergency brakes look to just wrap around wheel on the drive shaft. I might need to tighten that or replace. It does not hold much at all, with E brake on, it's hard too but I can turn the drive shaft with my hand.

I have never worked on bakes before. Brake lines look to be in good shape. I see there are three screws on each drum/hub. I am assuming those come out and the drum/hub pulls off (I've heard that they may be a pain to get off). Once I get that off, what parts do I need to replace?

At this point, I am not even sure if there are front brakes.

I am having trouble finding any parts listed for an F500. I have been going just off of pictures that look close to what have. I have been lucky so far and all have fit.

Is there an order that things must be done?

I am on my way out the door so I'll make it short. Replace the entire brake system, lines hoses, cylinders. Parts are available. Chuck's Trucks is a good source. You picture the rear drum hub assembly. Advance search works Ok.

I agree with ray. You don't know what is in those brake lines, 60+ years of gunk is my guess. Also brake fluid absorbs water, the lines could be rusting from the inside out and you wouldn't know until you blow a line when you try to stop.

Yes replace the lines and booster. Want part numbers? I can help! Go to the below link and go tom posts #3 and #10. I have a '56 F500. I can point you to whatever part you need. Just reach out.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...s-sources.html

There's a lot of meat on those shoes. I don't see any reason why you would need to have them re-shoed. Carefully remove the brake fittings from the cylinders. I don't recommend using heat if they're stubborn because you'll damage the internal parts of the wheel cylinders. If they don't budge easily don't feel the need to get a breaker bar. Use some PB Blaster and let it sit.

You'll need a tool to release the springs (and put them back on). Please don't try pliers. Those springs are under an amazing amount of pressure. Here is the tool: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7769201

Once you get the wheel cylinders off, take them apart. You'll need a snap ring tool to remove the retaining rings. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7769169 Once apart, inspect the 1) rubber boots for any cracking 2) interior cylinder for rust and pitting 3) rust on the spring 4) damage or cracking to the internal piston. Keep all of the parts of each cylinder together. It's good to put the same parts back on the same cylinder. Inspect the cylinder: if the cylinder is mildly pitted, you may get yourself a honing tool. Go easy and smooth it out. I got lucky on my truck and was able to reuse my cylinders by honing them a bit. I've got several years in since my restoration and my master cylinder brake fluid level hasn't dropped at all. Here is the honing tool: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7769223

Napa, Advance Auto, AutoZone, etc, sells sections of hand-bendable brake lines and connection fitting that will work fine for you. I used them to replace the lines on my truck. Just measure the distances of existing lines and jot them down.

One word of caution...there's a brass T on your rear axle that receives the fluid from your brake booster and then distributes that pressure to your rear wheel cylinders. Be very careful with that and don't lose it. You'll likely never find a replacement. I searched high and low for a replacement. Maybe the guys here can lead you to one easily (maybe I used the wrong part numbers or keywords in my search) if you need a new one.

Oh, lastly, when you have to tighten the large nut over your king pins/wheel bearings, there's a specific procedure. We can cover that when you get there.

Come back with questions or updates!

What CCalvin said above with my opinion being a bit different. Replace any soft item like cylinder cups and seals, cups being most important. You most likely have no idea how old they are and such items do degrade over time. Like CC said, you may get by honing the cylinders. If the pistons are not corroded, replace the cups. Cups in the correct size are most likely still available as separate items. Any questions as to their condition, replace the cylinders. Those brake shoes do have lots of meat remaining and from what I see the drums look nice. In fact the whole assembly looks good, no rust. However, those shoes look like they've accumulated some brake fluid or lubrication and are probably impregnated with same. If you can not get them perfectly clean, have them relined. Steam cleaning has been known to remove the oil from them but also has been known to break the glue used to bond the lining to the shoes. A second look at the pictures, indicate you may have riveted shoes.
Have fun.
Edit: Amazing how the rust has formed between the overload spring leaves and caused them to distort.

Calvin, Do you have a picture if your screwdriver you made to remove the three large screws on the drums? I made one out of a crow bar but cutting the end off and grinding it down, Worked great on the first drum, removed all three screws with ease. The second drum (passenger rear) no such luck. They won't budge. Broke the tip off the crow bar three times. It was getting late, so I gave up for the evening. By looking at the three screws, it looks like I may have to heat em up (cherry red). I tapped with a hammer (I put the thimbles on the studs to prevent an accidental hit and striping of threads). Even with some "mild" hammer hits on the head of the screws, they still won't budge. I wander what the brakes look like on this side. I am thinking they may be pretty bad as it looks like this drum has never been off.

It was in the dollar bin at Advance Auto. The tip was a little under 1". I used my bench grinder to make it a really tight fit in the head of the bolt. Since I wasn't able to put enough torque on the handle with just my hands I put a set of vice grips on the arm and tapped it with a hammer. They all came loose this way. Have a look:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...13926820cc.jpg

For Wheel Flathead Bolt Tool
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...eaadcbf49c.jpg

Ford Wheel Flathead Bolt Tool