Maybe? I'm not sure what his final finishing process is, just what went into the guts of it. It looks and feels brand new. I can't recommend this guy enough!

 

Tony, why don't you buy a new fuel pump at NAPA? It would be built to withstand ethonal and cheaper than getting yours rebuilt.

 

That's something I wouldn't mind doing, Abe. I'm sure the connecting rod that goes into the block is fairly well worn by now.

Problem is I can't seem to nail the part # down for the 6 cyl fuel pump. Most I've seen are for the V8. If they're interchangeable, I'm good to go ordering one of those.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Dennis Carpenter lists it as part #592-9350......$79.95

 

I bought mine at Rock Auto.

An Airtex 592 for $48.79. Only have had it for a year but no problems to date. It is an exact fit for the "H" series 226. I modified mine by replacing the actuator arm to work with the 46 "G" series 226 I'm using in my 51.

 

I appreciate the input and discussion.

I had looked into that DC part number before, as it's for a "V8" fuel pump, and I think there are differences between those and the 226 pump.

The Airtex part looks promising, but I don't want to open a new pump up to modify it.

However, LMC does have the 226-specific fuel pump back in stock for $70, so I'll go that route. Definitely better than a rebuilt one, imho.

 

I only had to modify the one for the 1946 engine. It is correct for the 48-51.

 

I purchased a new fuel pump for my 215 cid I6 engine at a local auto parts store. I was pleasantly surprised that my original glass sediment bowl fit perfectly on the replacement pump. My new pump, with the glass bowl, looks just like my original.

Jim

 

I really wish I had REAL auto parts stores around here. Unless you drive a Honda or Toyota, they don't stock anything for your car, and are highly unwilling to let you even look at part numbers for cars that don't show up on their computers. Useless, really.

 

I am looking at the DC catalogue and it shows part #578-9350a for the V8 and Part #592-9350 for the 6 cylinder for the years 48/50

 

Bump and update on this.

Installed the new fuel pump without a hitch, pumps like a champ.

I also decided (like an idiot) to replace the steel line from the tank to the fuel pump inlet hose. Running the steel through the frame was tricky but not impossible, just had to straighten and rebend a few sections. Hooked it up and have a massive fuel leak where the steel line meets the rubber inlet hose. Compression fitting wasn't seating right, so I ordered a new inlet hose and tried again. Worse leak this time. The threading on the compression fitting just doesn't go far enough into the female end of the rubber inlet hose (old or new) and simply won't seal, so it must be an issue with the flange or male threads on the LMC line. Needless to say, it's annoying the snot out of me. I'm thinking of either:

1) cutting the flange off of the steel line and running a rubber hose from that line and installing a barbed fitting on the fuel pump inlet side. (What size the compression fitting on these pumps?)
2) running a full aeroquip-type line from the tank to the fuel pump with AN fittings. I did this on my two previous projects, so it's not hard for me to do. It won't be stock, but I'd rather have a truck that doesn't **** fuel even when the engine is off. But at least I know the fittings will be secure from tank to pump.

I also need to replace the fuel line from the pump to the carb, as I think the flange/compression fitting is pretty worn now. I'm still getting a small leak the output side of the pump, but that's not too bad. Seems no one makes the line for the 226, only the V8. Is the V8 one shorter, or will that work?

Pics below are what's leaking:

 

From my searches, it seems the fuel pump fitting is 1/2-20 female inverted flare. Can anyone confirm this?

I can only find adapters with 3/8" or 5/16" hose barbs, so I may need to get creative. I think a 5/16" ID fuel line will fit on the outside of that bre-bent steel line (once I cut off the flanged piece), but I'll get the calipers out this weekend.

I don't want to try to fit an adapter on the end of the pre-bent flare, as that's where I believe the fitment issue is coming from.

 

If it's the steel line's male flare that's bad, you can cut off the flare and slide the male piece off. Then use a brass compression fitting that goes from 5/16" tube to the flare connection. It doesn't look like you can afford to lose much length, tho.

 

I may try that brass compression fitting first. Hadn't thought of that. Should be able to find something related to brake line hardware to work there. You're right that i can't lose much length, but I can get pretty close to that flare with my mini pipe cutter to save as much as I can. That may be the simplest way to go, at least to start with.

As you can imagine, fittings for that particular thread/design are limited, but I have a few more options for the male compression fitting that goes directly into the fuel pump inlet..

 

You could also buy a small length of ready-made brake /fuel line, with fittings already on both ends, and cut your existing line back further. Cut off one of the new piece's flare ends, and use a compression union to join them. I ended up doing that because I went to an electric pump in the middle of the line. It eliminates the problem of lost length. No leakage in 15 years.