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What would you do from here?

  #16  
Old 07-15-2018, 08:44 AM
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ICP sensors are pricey and I wouldn't buy one unless/until it was diagnosed as bad. When they go they usually have oil weeping through to the connectors. If you unplug the ICP the PCM will issue a default code and the truck will run, just not as well as it does with a good sensor in place. Having replaced injector O rings, some could have gotten damaged upon installation, it happens. You can test them by pressurizing the HPO rails with air and listening for the oil gurgling past them.
 
  #17  
Old 07-15-2018, 09:15 AM
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Before you go throwing parts at the problem(s) I would suggest searching Torque Pro FAQ and reading the info and getting torque pro or lite, then gather the numbers that the machine that is FTE brotherhood can crunch and possibly come up with a solution that will help
 
  #18  
Old 07-15-2018, 10:57 AM
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With vc's off, check the injectors eith a straight edge. Also, look up and do the CODY TEST. Im with walkeye, think anboring or4 has been compromised with the #'s your seeing
 
  #19  
Old 07-15-2018, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter View Post
ICP sensors are pricey and I wouldn't buy one unless/until it was diagnosed as bad. When they go they usually have oil weeping through to the connectors. If you unplug the ICP the PCM will issue a default code and the truck will run, just not as well as it does with a good sensor in place. Having replaced injector O rings, some could have gotten damaged upon installation, it happens. You can test them by pressurizing the HPO rails with air and listening for the oil gurgling past them.

thats a a good idea. I hadnít thought of that yet.
 
  #20  
Old 07-15-2018, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Jaime74656 View Post
Before you go throwing parts at the problem(s) I would suggest searching Torque Pro FAQ and reading the info and getting torque pro or lite, then gather the numbers that the machine that is FTE brotherhood can crunch and possibly come up with a solution that will help
at one time I bought one of those elm327 connectors and downloaded torque pro, but never could get the connector to power on so I sent it back. Do you know of a good brand to try?
 
  #21  
Old 07-15-2018, 11:54 AM
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I got a Veepeak for iPad, can't help you with a bluetooth but I have heard that there are a lot of bad products in that department.
 
  #22  
Old 07-15-2018, 01:59 PM
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Amazon / BAFX / 23$ / Torque Pro / 4.99$ =
 
  #23  
Old 07-18-2018, 01:36 PM
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Alright, so I just got done with the CODY test. No leaks.

i had an old hose with me so I cut it and put a barb in it, I hooked it up to a pancake air compressor, it held 125 psi on both banks for a little over an hour on each side. When I took the hose off, it was still full of oil on both sides.

i still believe that my problem is inside the valve cover somewhere though. The truck doesnít turn over very even, it hits a hard note on the starter consistently. When it does start, there is a considerable amount of blue smoke for a second, then it clears out. It never done that before all this no-start stuff started happening. And the hpop pressure is consistent when cranking. 580ish cold and 300ish when warm(no start)
 
  #24  
Old 07-18-2018, 03:41 PM
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A grab bag of thoughts...

Just for grins, check your glow plug relay. Then pull the connectors to the valve covers and ohm out the individual glow plugs. Easy to ohm out the injectors at the same time.

I know you are reporting hard start when warm, thus the "just for grins" part. Assuming it does start easily when cold...

The "hard note on the starter" is tougher... Damaged ring gear? Loose bolt on the starter? Bent push rod?

Does the engine seem to crank slower when warm (bad starter)? It may not get enough RPM to start (you can pull RPM, IPR, ICP, etc. from the diag port). I would not replace the starter without data to support the cost of this part.
 
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Old 07-18-2018, 04:57 PM
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The glow plug relay ohmed at .02, all 8 injectors ohmed between .01 and .03. I havenít checked the glow plugs themselves yet.

take a look at this and see what you think about the starter. This was after I shut it off and it had set for about 40 minutes. It didnít start. But notice how the rpms pick up once the lpop starts to build

 
  #26  
Old 07-18-2018, 07:37 PM
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Your numbers don't make sense...

Injectors should ohm out at about 2 to 5 ohms each (don't have the spec in front of me, going a bit from memory). The injectors are pins 1, 2, 8, 9 on each valve cover connector.

The glow plugs should measure between 1/2 and 2 ohms each (pins 3, 4, 6, 7 on the same connectors).

To test the glow plug relay, measure volts and not ohms. Verify you have battery voltage on one of the big lugs (should be about 12.7V), then measure voltage across both big lugs when the relay is energized. It should be a small number.

ETA: Watched the video, and 3 quick observations. First, don't crank so long. About 20 seconds max and let the starter cool between attempts. Second, it seemed to take a while to get low oil pressure on the gauge, so check the dipstick. Third, that crank does not sound right. No specific help form me as to why beyond what I posted above, but maybe someone else has heard a crank sound like that before. I do see the low oil pressure on the gauge drop each time the starter seems to "stall" (for lack of a better word).
 
  #27  
Old 07-18-2018, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by DogRidesInBack View Post
Your numbers don't make sense...

Injectors should ohm out at about 2 to 5 ohms each (don't have the spec in front of me, going a bit from memory). The injectors are pins 1, 2, 8, 9 on each valve cover connector.

The glow plugs should measure between 1/2 and 2 ohms each (pins 3, 4, 6, 7 on the same connectors).

To test the glow plug relay, measure volts and not ohms. Verify you have battery voltage on one of the big lugs (should be about 12.7V), then measure voltage across both big lugs when the relay is energized. It should be a small number.

ETA: Watched the video, and 3 quick observations. First, don't crank so long. About 20 seconds max and let the starter cool between attempts. Second, it seemed to take a while to get low oil pressure on the gauge, so check the dipstick. Third, that crank does not sound right. No specific help form me as to why beyond what I posted above, but maybe someone else has heard a crank sound like that before. I do see the low oil pressure on the gauge drop each time the starter seems to "stall" (for lack of a better word).
those numbers were from a couple weeks ago using my personal meter(itís a $10 craftsman) nothing has changed since then so I went back to them, Iíll borrow a meter from work and when I get up tomorrow morning Iíll get out there and update.


yeah, I would never turn it over that long normally, but ever since it started giving me trouble I bought another starter and a set of cables that I carry around with me, and that day I was having one of those ďjust ***** itĒ days. I caught it doing that so I got a quick video. About 30 minutes after that it did eventually start up. It still took about the same time though. The low pressure gauge spiked a few times, then the high pressure rose to about 450 and it fired.

The dipstick is about half, maybe a little under half over the add line. Oil was changed about 3 weeks ago. Motor craft oil and filter.

i need to mention too that the HPOP tank was full when I made the video, and It doesnít drain down overnight. I actually havenít caught it drained since the o-rings.

the sound of the crank started about the same time that the HPOP was put on, it was pretty steady before.
 
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