To correct this problem to must use the matching later pedal setup.
There's many different lengths of push rods combos 73-79.

The new one you have pictured looks to be 68-72 setup

Orich

 

The booster I got has a threaded rod and allows me to change out the rod to fit the needed length. I'm wondering if that rose comes out and you could use a thread rod. Otherwise, you'll need to modify the brake pedal.

 

The newer booster with the long input rod looks to be a single diaphragm unit from a Dentside truck. The larger diameter booster with the short input rod looks to be a single diaphragm booster from a Dentside truck with a bellcrank (cantilever) mounting bracket.

'68-'72 Bumpside long input rod single and dual diaphragm boosters will have an adjustable input rod. Dentside long input rod single and dual diaphragm boosters will not have an adjustable input rod.

Dentside bellcrank boosters (single or dual diaphragm) will have very short input rods and will mount to a cantilever bracket --completely different style bracket arrangement from the brackets that the long input rod boosters mount to.

'67 is the odd-ball year when it comes to brake boosters, pedal supports and pedals.



Trying to put a long input rod Bumpside or Dentside booster in a '67 will position the eyelet of the booster input rod past (rearward) of lining up with the hole on the side of the '67 brake pedal.



Your choices are:

1. Get the correct '67 booster and brackets.

2. Change out the '67 pedal support for a '68-'72 F100-F350 pedal support/pedal(s)

3. Make a spacer to go between the booster brackets and the firewall, to move the booster forward, so the long input rod booster eyelet will line up with the hole in your '67 pedal --like I did on this '65 F100.



4. Or, get a pedal support bearing kit from Mustang Steve and relocate your pedal pivot point, on the existing pedal support, more rearward from where it's presently located.

 

 

Hey Jensen,
Last summer I had to replace the power booster in my 68 f 100. I was able to get a rebuilt booster and master cylinder combo from rock auto. The price was fair and the shipping was fast and reasonable. The new set up was an easy swap out and has been working great ever since! Maybe they will have a set up unit for your 250?
I hope this helps you out some.............JIM

 

With '67 being the odd-ball year, finding a power brake booster/bracket assembly may not be that easy. I've fooled with a lot of '68-up Bumpside and Dentside boosters and I've never even come across a '67 in the boneyard with a factory power brake booster on it.

 

I bought the combo booster/MC from RockAuto. It was reasonable just wish it was a match. I'm at a bit of a standstill until I can figure this out. Funny I can find a clear lens for the gauge cluster and a bunch of other random stuff but no brake booster.

 

The bell crank, does that NEED to be used with the booster? I made new brackets and it eliminated the cantilever bracket. If needed, I think I can modify my steering bracket to use the bell crank and keep it INSIDE the cab. The issue I'm having is sealing the firewall.

Jensen, I have a donor with that steering brace and pedal assembly. Looking at the two parts though, it should be easy enough to move the mounting position a little and secure it in place.

 

IF you're talking about sliding the pedal support back, that's not going to be possible. The column bracket is slotted and has some adjustability but the pedal support does not. The pedal support attaches firmly to the firewall with (6) 3/8"-16 bolts.

If a person is going to install a factory booster/bracket assembly in a '67 model truck, it's probably a lot less trouble to just swap out to a '68-'72 pedal support and pedal(s) and run a '68-'72 brake booster. Everything will line up without having to modify the pedal support, fabricate spacers, etc.

 

Absolutely correct, right down to the bolts used. Impressive! My plan, or idea, is not to slide the pedal support back, that would not be possible. Instead, I though I could modify the pedal support to BECOME the cantilever mount. I have not measured it and do not know if there's enough room to do that, and if I did, I would likely need to move the booster up and make a new firewall hole.

I have the pedal assembly and pedal for the '68-'72 in my donor. It would be easier to use than modify what he has, which is why I'm offering it.

 

Thoughts about cutting off the push rod at exact length and weld old eyelet on? Planning on doing this tmrw vs find or build a bracket. There's a 5" difference. Seems straightforward.

 

I don't see why not , as long as you can keep the heat from going into the PB unit as it could damage the diaphragm it's mounted to..
Orich