I've been searching for a definitive test and comment thread on the power locks. I've seen some for the Expeditions and Explorers, but not so much for the van. I'm not sure to what extent they differ, but since it seems like a lot of the van stuff is "van unique" I thought I'd ask to see what I get for a response. So, here is my situation:

1999 E-350 XLT Club Wagon RB v10. When I got it the door locks would work intermittently with the remote, but not with the switches in the doors. Now they don't work with either. The remote does still operate and I can hear noise in the doors like the locks are attempting to work, but nothing happens. I pulled the lock from the rear door because it wasn't working at all. I attempted to do the foil repair but that didn't seem to help, so it seems I have some other problem. I haven't yet tested the switches, but suspect one or more of them is kaput. Meanwhile, as I'm driving down the road, every now and then the door locks will mysteriously lock or unlock (generally all of the front doors and side door). There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to this happening (i.e, going over a bump). I live in Phoenix so the weather is generally dry.

Any thoughts? Directions for testing and eliminating variables?

Thanks.

 

cleaned the contacts with sandpaper and made sure the rear switch was making good connection. Now all my locks work as they should. By taking the back one out I think is where your problem lies. Good luck the doors are a pain in the *** but hey, the van is worth it.

 

 

 

My 2002 did the intermittent lock/unlock thing. I took out the module and found the previous owners kids had spilled sugary drinks on it and it was all gummed up . I rinsed it off and let it dry and reinstalled it. It has worked perfectly for years.

 

My 99 had a similar issue. No RKE on mine. I replaced the blown fuse, and the locks would sometimes work. I checked the rear door switch, and it was busted. I could get the whole system to work if i held that broken switch just right. That switch must be operable for the whole system to work. You also could remove it and connect a couple of the wires to fool the system.

Here's the switch I bought from ford. Everything works as it should now. Was $54 with tax. LKQ had one in the whole country, and wasn't available yet. Used, it was $35.

 

Check this thread. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...entry-fix.html