Just crank it over with the cap off. Turning the body of the dizzy towards the rotating rotor will advance it, turning it the same direction as the rotating rotor will retard it.

 

Welded in my wastegate, and cleaned up some welds today got the turbo ready to accept and drain oil too, just need 2 more fittings one for the sending oil from block and one to the pan, after that and a intake and exhaust gasket she's ready, the pump I had previously was junk so I'm waiting on the replacement which is coming in the mail.

also this truck is going to be a bit of a rat rod and I'm trying to think of inexpensive ideas for a fuel tank. Any ideas? The truck never came with a tank anyways and I want it in the bed or under

 

You could do the Mustang tank for the in-between the rails install (this is covered under ) Read First:Technical Info Hyperlink Compilation( 1 2) by HIO Silver , or buy an aux (mid-ship) tank and install it under the bed on the driver's side.

 

Everything is pretty much done and wired, welded or plugged in. Besides the carb as you can see. Trying to figure out what to do for a cheap cable conversion. But as you can see it's all supported stable and ready to roll for the most part. Everything was real cheap and most anyone can do it. I'll list everything I used once I'm done. I can't foresee anything large coming on. I've spent under 300 for everything.

 

 

I should add that you will want around 11.0 afr's to go with that 14* timing to start. Wideband o2 sensor around a foot away from the turbine housing in the downpipe and at least 24" of downpipe after the o2 sensor so it reads accurately.

 

you seem to know what your doing. I'm having a lot of problems starting it. Slowly turning the dizzy while someone's cranking it I have to advance it even further for it to begin wanting to start, and if it does start I have to continuously throttle the carb not just hold it. Any idea what's going on?

 

Their's likely not enough velocity in the pipe to pull the fuel from the bottom of the turbo, uphill to the intake that long distance while cranking/low rpm. I had mentioned adding a "primer port" for starting in an earlier post.

Pull out the #1 spark plug and hand turn the crank with your thumb covering the spark plug hole to be sure you are on the compression stroke. Turn the crank to 10* before top dead center and leave it. Then turn the distributor until one of the teeth on the collector ring is in alignment with the sensor. That will be #1 plug wire of course. Tighten distributor and don't twist on it anymore until you get it running. Should be within 2* of actual timing. Then continue with the firing order clockwise. 153624

 

The throttling that you are doing is actually spraying fuel into moving air and it's helping the fuel make it to the intake instead of dropping to the bottom of the turbo and sitting...with the throttle blades nearly closed their is not enough air flow to carry the fuel the up hill distance.

If the above doesn't work, it's time to move the turbo to the passenger side. Throttle response will increase 10X and you MAY be able to spool the turbo in 1st due to very minimal heat loss from the cylinders to the turbo.

 

Just noticed, the firing order in post 35 is incorrect and the wrong rotation....that will make a HUUUUUGE difference of course lol.

 

Wait Wait! switch 4 and 5 wires on the cap and your golden.....it's been a loooong day let me be lol.

 

my firing order is correct. I went off markings on my intake original to the truck. What u said makes sense though. Not enough velocity. Although I'm about 3000 miles from my other vehicle with a carb and I cant remember if it continues spraying fuel through the nozzle when you throttle it or a single spurt. I am only getting a single. Which made me wonder if I'm having carb issues. I have no secondary carb and no one near Virginia to check. Anyone know off top of their head if it's a singular sport or constant stream through the boosters?

ps I kind of hope that's the issue. I don't want to re weld and go through routing the turbo again. Passenger side isn't going to fit under the hood like I had before.

 

I'm going to assume you corrected the firing order since post 35, because that firing order is incorrect and the engine will only run on 4 cylinders that way.

Carb functions:

Under the throttle plates are idle circuits. Engine vacuum pulses draw fuel through small holes to fuel during idle and low throttle position. The fuel comes out in pulses, being drawn out with each vacuum pulse from each intake stroke on each cylinder.

The round pieces above the throttle plates are boosters that do not work at idle, they work at low throttle positions and higher, and air flow from engine pulses draws fuel, in pulses, into the engine.

The accelerator pump (what your seeing spray a stream) is used to fill the void between the 2 circuits and provide a smooth transition between the 2 circuits. That's why it sprays and then stops because it's not needed after the boosters start flowing fuel.

In general, their are not any kind of carburetor or efi types that spray a steady stream continuously.

In general, all automotive carbs have an accelerator pump and function the same way. There are MANY tractors, lawn mowers, motorcycles etc. that have a low jet, and do not use an accelerator pump at all.

 

Definitely has the rat rod look. Hats off to you for taking the plunge and building a turbo system.

Couple of things i see that are more likely than not going to cause you problems though. First, and this has been mentioned, mounting the turbo on its side like that is generally considered a big no-no.
the oil drain back is curtail to turbo life, and most turbo manufacturers want the drain to be facing straight down. Positively pumping the oil out might work, but i think even with a pump you might run into oil consumption problems due to the oil wanting to stack up on the exhaust side. you may also end up starving the compressor side bearing for oil, dunno. The oil coming out of the turbo, when it is spinning at normal speeds, is a froth of air and oil. it doesn't really drain all that well, and can back up into the housing. That is why 99.99% of turbo installs have the drain back facing straight down, with a large tube, and dumping back to the sump above the oil level.
Second issue i see as possibly causing you a problem is the draw through carb, while there is nothing inherently wrong with doing it that way, most turbos are not designed to have a strong vaccume on the turbine side. they are not sealed for it, so they pull oil into the intake side, and they don't have the thrust bearings to deal with the forces of the vacuum. So you wipe the turbo bearings pretty quick.
Blow through carbs are really a much better design. It isnt really that hard to modify a standard holley carb for blow through use. google it. it also serves as an after cooler for the compressed charge.
As has been mentioned, the long piping from the turbo to the manifold is probably less than ideal for keeping the fuel in suspention.
Not trying to bash your project, i genuinely hope it works for you. Nothing cooler than a turbo-ed 300-6 in my book. just trying to help.

 

ya your right. It isn't going to work. It'll run but not with out me constantly throttling it. No smoking issues. I have a pump taking the oil out as fast as it comes in. But it cant idle with that far of an intake pipe.

as far as blow through. My carb is a vacuum secondary not a mechanical so a blow through cant happen unfortunately. I'm leaving virginia and without this running I'm going to have to sell anyways.

on the bright side someone will get a deal and just have to redo the piping. Or get a blowthrough carb.