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Errr codes....again

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Old Jun 25, 2018 | 10:40 AM
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Errr codes....again

Good morning all......

I just got got back from a 500 mile trip and the Ex bucked several times. The CPS was replaced with a Ford purple/blue “C” model CPS earlier in the week because of similar problems weeks before.

Pulled the codes this morning:

DTC #01 - P0344
DTC #02 - P0603
DTC #03 - P1670

I purchased a spare CPS.....should I change them out? What causes the 1670?

Thanks......

Swmpbgy1
 
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Old Jun 25, 2018 | 08:19 PM
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P1670 is bad communications between the PCM and IDM. It could be corrosion, loose connection, water in the IDM plug or a broken wire (varmints?).
 
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Old Jun 26, 2018 | 08:48 AM
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What Mike said, and what I suggested last time...sounds like to me you got wiring issues that you'll need to chase down. Unfortunate that the IDM is under the fender....


EDIT: Lets see if this works. There are only a few threads in the 7.3 forum with this very issue, and no stickies that I found. If the link doesn't work, go to the 7.3 forum and search the P1670 code.

Forum search results in the 7.3 forum:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...rchid=26617223
 
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Old Jun 26, 2018 | 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Nicmike
P1670 is bad communications between the PCM and IDM. It could be corrosion, loose connection, water in the IDM plug or a broken wire (varmints?).
You don't happen to have a pic of what the IDM looks like? I understand I have to remove the drivers side wheel well covering to access it....Is the IDM the only thing under there??

Also.....Looked around on Riffraff and RockAuto…..Is the IDM and the FICM one and the same??

Sorry.....Electrical gremlins are my worst nightmare!!!

Swmpbgy1
 
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Old Jun 26, 2018 | 12:31 PM
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IDM=7.3L beast

FICM=6.uh-oh

Once the fender liner is off, you will see the IDM right next to the driver's door hinges. It is only inches from the PCM firewall plug, and the wires running from the PCM to the IDM are only inches long.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2018 | 06:31 AM
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Good morning all...……

Finally had the chance to pull the fender well liner and access the IDM. I cleaned the contact pins and connector liberally with contact cleaner and then lubed it up with dielectric grease. Codes cleared...….I drove it this weekend to Gatlinburg, TN. It ran fine for most of the trip, but it died while coming to a stop at a traffic light. Started right up and we made it home without any other issues.

Pulled the codes last night.....got another P1670.....I guess it's time to replace the IDM??

Swmpbgy1
 
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Old Aug 6, 2018 | 08:21 AM
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Glad you got it to work for a while...and I know you said electrical gremlins aren't for you (I don't know anyone who loves it), I'd still break down the wiring loom/tape/whatever it has on it and check the wires for obvious damage or chaffing. Also, make sure any grounds are well connected. Honestly, I'd check every single ground you can find on the truck. They do funny things to vehicles. If all that checks out, then go for the IDM. Hopefully a 7.3 guru can chime in, or maybe post up in the 7.3 forum and see if anyone over there can help.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2018 | 01:06 PM
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All......

Just had a thought....earlier this year I had a battery die......I limped along with the dieing battery. It finally got to a no start situation and I had to replace the battery......both of them.

This being said, I think I’ve read somewhere that bad batteries can harm the IDM......Am I toast??

Swmpbgy1
 
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Old Aug 7, 2018 | 07:17 AM
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Anyone?????
 
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Old Aug 7, 2018 | 09:08 AM
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I'm sure that letting your batteries die will contribute to issues, but I'm not sure that it will cause your IDM to fail. And if it did, I would think that it would just die all the way. Do you have access to a laptop? I believe you can get ForScan for free or nearly free and see what it tells you. I don't have it, so I don't know how to use it, but it should tell you some pretty good information. If you'd rather throw parts at it, then the IDM's range from ~$200-~$700 depending on year and whether you want it stock or modified.

I'm still on the fence as to whether it's the actual IDM. I don't tend to replace parts until I've exhausted all other options like wire chaffing, grounds, connections clean, etc. If it were me, I'd check all that first and make sure it's good before I replaced the IDM.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2018 | 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by EXSwap
I'm sure that letting your batteries die will contribute to issues, but I'm not sure that it will cause your IDM to fail. And if it did, I would think that it would just die all the way. Do you have access to a laptop? I believe you can get ForScan for free or nearly free and see what it tells you. I don't have it, so I don't know how to use it, but it should tell you some pretty good information. If you'd rather throw parts at it, then the IDM's range from ~$200-~$700 depending on year and whether you want it stock or modified.

I'm still on the fence as to whether it's the actual IDM. I don't tend to replace parts until I've exhausted all other options like wire chaffing, grounds, connections clean, etc. If it were me, I'd check all that first and make sure it's good before I replaced the IDM.
Thanks...I guess the only way to really inspect the wiring on the IDM is to fully remove the fender? I could barely see it with the partial fender liner removal. How many grounding points do you think the Ex has?

Swmpbgy1
 
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Old Aug 7, 2018 | 09:34 AM
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Yeah, I think you'd be better served removing the entire fender to inspect everything. Not sure how many ground points there are, but it's quite a few.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2018 | 08:07 AM
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Old Aug 11, 2018 | 09:02 AM
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Since I am in the books this morning trying to solve my own mystery I looked up your IDM ground and pin out info.


The IDM shares the ground with the PCM and is known as ground G101 and is located on the inner fender right next to the air box lid.


 
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Old Aug 11, 2018 | 09:08 AM
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Gxxx are the ground locations, as stated above the PCM and IDM ground is G101

edit: @exswap, book shows a total of 14 grounds on the excursion. Only 1 for the IDM




 
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