So I replaced injector pump and my lift pump these over the past couple weeks finally finished, so we bleed the lines and crack the injectors or air and nothing. It’s turned on twice but other than that it’ll sit there and spin. The injectors are getting fuel to them and I replaced the return lines because they were leaking. Is there anyway to test a camshaft position sensor or if anyone has any other ideas can you let me know thank you!!

 

I'd say you could just need to prime it some more. DISCONNECT the glow plugs and give it a SNIFF of ether, it doesn't take much and try to hold the pedal down a bit and let it run for a minute or so at 1500rpms to see if it's just left over air.

These trucks don't have any electronics for the engine, all mechanical.

If you're automatic with the e40d you will have some stuff for the trans. Such as the fipl that mounts to the side of the ip, a map sensor that's just hooked up electrically, and a trans computer.

if it still won't stay running or start back correctly it would seem like your fuel line is sucking air somewhere,

Is your fuel tank above 1/4 tank? The pickup on the bottom of the sending unit likes to fall apart and start sucking air.

Follow the fuel line from the lift pump across the k-member and chack to see if it's rubbed a hole in it anywhere, then from there back to the tank selector valve. Try to see if there are any splices a previous owner did and could be sucking air,

Sure you're getting fuel to the injectors but it should run and stay running unless your ip is randomly catching air from somewhere.

 

If you are getting fuel to the injectors, then you should be good to go. When you replaced the IP, did you remove the gearhousing? Or did you just remove the three 12-point bolts in the gear housing and slide the IP out of the timing gear? If you removed the timing gear, then you could have installed it in the wrong place so the timing is off.

But before all that, what is your voltage on those batteries? You could have a bad cell. Take the batteries out, take them to an autoparts store, and have them tested. Once I had a new battery that somehow got a bad cell. No matter what I did, the engine would crank but not start. Even jumping it from another truck wouldn't fire up the engine. The one bad cell would drain the starting capacity of the batteries. These IDI's need a lot of juice to fire up. You need something like 12.1 V to start. If you are at around 11.7 or lower, you need to assist the batteries with a jumpstart. And even then, you might have a to get your batteries tested.