1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

Pulled the doghouse, found this? And other MISC wires.

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  #46  
Old 06-29-2018, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by baddad457
What's disrespectful is this post. If he'll do a search, there has recently been a thread about installing window units here. And they're not cobbled together. Maybe you should check that out instead of referring to those guy's installs as such. I simply offered the OP a simple cheaper solution to a problem, instead of spending three grand on a van of about equal value judging from it's paint job and rust. And seems seeing his reply there was no harm, no foul done. A roof mount, isn't such a good idea after reading that other thread, there are pitfalls to that type as well. I for one think that would also look better, but after reading the minuses from that other thread, no longer readily agree.
Where did you come up with 3 grand? He was quoted $1100-$1400 for the shop to do the entire job. And if he can handle doing the work himself he can do it for much less. But it really all depends on what he wants and how he wants to use it. If the van is going to also be used as a camper then one that runs off a inverter isn't a bad addition. But I'd still want the stock front van system for use while driving. But if going to one that runs off a inverter then upgrades to the electrical system would also be recommended. It would also be wise to have a second battery (deep cycle ) so you aren't left stranded if the main battery is drained. When you figure that all in it's going to be more then $400. Every option will have it's pros and cons. The OP will have to decide what will work out the best for their needs.
 
  #47  
Old 06-29-2018, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by fordman75
Where did you come up with 3 grand? He was quoted $1100-$1400 for the shop to do the entire job. And if he can handle doing the work himself he can do it for much less. But it really all depends on what he wants and how he wants to use it. If the van is going to also be used as a camper then one that runs off a inverter isn't a bad addition. But I'd still want the stock front van system for use while driving. But if going to one that runs off a inverter then upgrades to the electrical system would also be recommended. It would also be wise to have a second battery (deep cycle ) so you aren't left stranded if the main battery is drained. When you figure that all in it's going to be more then $400. Every option will have it's pros and cons. The OP will have to decide what will work out the best for their needs.
Where ? Estimates are just that, an estimate. With something like this taken to a shop, they often have a way of doubling. As for the extra battery, looks like that's already there. Inverter and a 110V unit run right around $400 together. I haven't shopped for one, but an A/C unit like that today could come with a remote, taking care of the operation from the driver's seat.
 
  #48  
Old 06-29-2018, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by baddad457
Where ? Estimates are just that, an estimate. With something like this taken to a shop, they often have a way of doubling. As for the extra battery, looks like that's already there. Inverter and a 110V unit run right around $400 together. I haven't shopped for one, but an A/C unit like that today could come with a remote, taking care of the operation from the driver's seat.
The price may be a few hundred more but not double. And if they tried to increase it that much you just take it somewhere else. Tell them right up front that if the price is going to be higher then the estimate they have to ok with him before doing the work. But he could also skip all the hassle with the shop by doing the work himself.

Where are you seeing dual batteries? He would need a deep cycle battery, maybe more then one. That would depend how often and long he'd want to run it without the van running. And he'd also need a battery isolator, higher out put alternator, along with all the wiring, and misc. supplies/hardware to go with the install. It would end up costing more then $400. Going custom set ups can add up real quick too.
 
  #49  
Old 06-29-2018, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by fordman75
The price may be a few hundred more but not double. And if they tried to increase it that much you just take it somewhere else. Tell them right up front that if the price is going to be higher then the estimate they have to ok with him before doing the work. But he could also skip all the hassle with the shop by doing the work himself.

Where are you seeing dual batteries? He would need a deep cycle battery, maybe more then one. That would depend how often and long he'd want to run it without the van running. And he'd also need a battery isolator, higher out put alternator, along with all the wiring, and misc. supplies/hardware to go with the install. It would end up costing more then $400. Going custom set ups can add up real quick too.
Where ? First pic battery's on the passenger side. I never had a second gen but my 96 has the battery on the driver's side. I put a second on the passenger side. You don't need an isolator, a battery buddy will suffice. for both batteries. Wiring cost is not what you'd think. And far less than $1400 you keep mentioning.
 
  #50  
Old 06-30-2018, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by baddad457
Where ? First pic battery's on the passenger side. I never had a second gen but my 96 has the battery on the driver's side. I put a second on the passenger side. You don't need an isolator, a battery buddy will suffice. for both batteries. Wiring cost is not what you'd think. And far less than $1400 you keep mentioning.
That's where the battery is on a third gen. Just the opposite of the 4th gen. I've got a 89 & a 96 sitting in my driveway.

I don't know what part of "he can do the work himself and save a big chunk of that cost" you aren't getting. The A/C parts would be in the $500-$800 range.

I've got a pretty good idea on what wiring cost. But like everything there's way to do things cheaper or more expensive. And with custom stuff the cost can get out of hand if you aren't careful. Like if I set up the extra battery/battery bank to run an inverter on a camper van. I would have it set up to be charged by the alternator when the engine is running, or be able to plug it in to a external 110V outlet to charge and also have a solar charger. I would also have a isolator so I could easily disconnect it from the main battery when the van wasn't running. But there are lots of ways to save money. You can buy a imported: inverter, wire, battery, window A/C unit and a battery charger. My main issue with that set up is electronics are a lot more likely to fail. If the van's A/C system is working, as long the van is still running you should have working A/C.

If it was going to be a camper van, the best set up would be both. It's his van, so he'll decide whatever he wants to do it.

But let's just agree that we disagree on this subject and not take up anymore of his thread trying to convince each other. I respect your opinion, it's another option. Which is good. Hopefully one of them will work out for him.
 
  #51  
Old 06-30-2018, 01:48 AM
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Well let me throw my 2 cents in, since my van is a raised room conversion van with fixed windows and only a front AC system.
I replaced every part on the AC system and went back with R12 since that is what the system was originally designed for..( I will probably convert it to R134a later on). My vent temp is always around 58F. Some folks say that is good for a van with just a front AC. The 88 vans with a 5.0 do not have a heater valve to stop the flow of hot coolant through the heater core which is in the same housing as the AC evaporator. A AC shop told me the first thing to do is install a heater control valve and that would bring the temp down.

Anyway the front of my van will get cold. I have taken some temp measurements throughout the van on full sunny days (98F outside them) and driving with the AC on for over an hour. The front was around 65F, the middle seating area averaged around 75F, while the rear seating area was 90F. I have driven on days when it was in the 90‘s but overcast and actually gotten the van down to the 75f in the rear. I have also had people sitting in the middle to tell me it was too cold with the outside temp around 80F and it was cloudy. So allot depends on the conditions..
I live in Georgia so as others have said, the Midwest will be much hotter!

Ideally is to have the front and rear AC.. If you are like myself with only a front AC or you decide to only rebuild front AC ,there are some things you can do to help out.

First tint all the windows... That helped my van greatly this year. I used ceramic tint on the front door windows and you can defiantly feel the difference.

Next would be to install some insulation in any areas you can like under the trim panels under the windows and doors.

Install curtains to go over the windows... I have tint and curtains and that makes a really big difference. You can buy a reflectex type material and make your own window covers held on with velcro., anything to help block out the heat.

Another idea, depending on how you set your van up, is to install a curtin behind the middle seats to close off the rear third of the van.

Install some kind of roof vent so when the van is parked it wont build up so much heat inside. Once everything inside gets 130F the ac has to take that heat out.

Whenever I take someone to an appointment and have to wait for them, I always try to find a place to park with some kind of shade. Even without pop out windows I find opening the rear, side, and front doors usually provides enough breeze under shade to make it tolerable.

Personally for what I do now and plan to do with my van in the future, I would not spend the extra money for the rear AC. In the future I plan to make a camper van and at that point the the factory AC, front or rear, is useless once at the camp site.
 
  #52  
Old 06-30-2018, 09:25 AM
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Anna you can install a manual heater shut off valve and accomplish the same thing. Used to be most semi trucks had these. Sure, you have to pop the hood to open/close it, but it works. Usually only have to do that twice a year anyway. You only need one valve in one line to stop the flow. The uncirculated coolant won't build up enough heat to affect the A/C temps. Two valves one in each line will completely isolate the coolant in the heater core and insure no heat.
 
  #53  
Old 07-02-2018, 12:19 PM
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Everyone, thank you so much for the conversation and options.

I will start off by saying that the van is something my girlfriend and I have wanted for quite some time. The cost of the repairs are going to outweigh the cost of the vehicle, easily, but that doesn't matter to us as I don't value vehicles based on their resale value. I value vehicles on what they can do for me, what comfort level i will have doing said things, and the memories made in them.

I have discussed with my girlfriend the options for the van. In her mind if we are going to get the front a/c fixed, we may as well have the rear a/c fixed as well. We want it to serve dual purpose as a road trip vehicle for friends and family as well as a camper so that at one time or another, we can live out of it for a month or two at the most. I think we may also be going the A/C unit route but that will be determined by our use and need for it. We plan on having the middle and front windows tinted, and possible the back windows as well, but we will be covering those in insulation/reflectix so that we can block them off as they don't open and we will be building over them. If we don't go with the a/c, we will be installing a fantastic fan in the ceiling. We're going to start out simple and work our way towards complex.

I do plan on installing a heavy duty deep cycle battery on the drivers side and isolating it. I will be doing as much of the work on the van that I am able to do in order to keep costs down.
 
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