I talked to the owners daughter, and her dad said all is original and her dad took it apart for the first time. He did not even bore the block he used a ridge reamer on the block and removed the pistons and put the original std bore pistons back in the block. This 390 block after .030 bore is really nice. I have a set of .030 pistons and will change the crankshaft to a 3.98 stroke and that will give me a 410 cu in motor. I do have a set of D2 heads with hardened valve sets that I will put back on this motor. I have both oil filter brackets but will put the one that hangs down back in the truck. The donor motor was a 4x4 and I have the oil pan too and the D2 heads. The oil pan has a plate on the side where the dip stick goes directly into the pan. My dip stick goes into the block and then into the pan. Both motors are FE Blocks and have the extra webbing inside the block on the main bearing towers.

 

66 T-Bird will be a 428, if that's what's in it now...…….. Lucky you if it is. If you use the 4x4 pan, you'll need the dipstick for it, Unless the standard truck tube and stick will work with the 4x4 pan.

 

I have the pan and the dip stick that goes with it, but will not be using it. I am going with the original set up.

 

Where's the oil plug in the 2wd oil pan, in the side or in the back of the sump.
You can use whichever adapter you want but your going to find you can't use a normal filter on the one that hangs down.
I've owned and worked on a number of those trucks, the twin I beam cross member from 66-79 doesn't allow enough room for a standard full sized oil filter when it hangs down.
That's the reason Ford developed the one that sticks the filter straight out, makes a mess when changing filters and you can't pre fill the filter.
If you can get a standard sized FL1A filter on yours with the hang down adapter I'd like to see a photo, it'll be the first I've ever seen.

 

Probably why they designed that angled filter mount, too many complaints about the one sticking straight out. Too bad it was a one year deal.

 

I will check for oil filter clearances when I get it back in the truck. I did not look at that before I pulled the motor out. I would definitely like the one that hangs down over the one that sticks straight out. I would not want oil all over my drive way every time I change the oil. Plus when it is on its side like that does it drain oil back into the oil pan when you don't use the truck and it sits for a day or two? The two wheel drive oil pan drain plug is in the back on the corner of the oil pan and the 4x4 oil pan plug is in the center and back of the pan. There is another difference other than the drain plug and dip stick tube. The two wheel drive oil pan is 6" deep and the 4x4 oil pan is 7" deep.

 

I've only read the more recent posts so I apologize if I'm restating something already mentioned...

I have the horizontal filter on my FE. When removing I place a properly shaped (bent by hand) cake pan under the filter. A few ounces dribbles out and into the pan. Before installing, I poor a pint of new oil into an FL1A and screw it on. I might loose a drop or two of new oil but nothing a paper towel cannot catch. My oil pressure gauge very quickly jumps right up to 60ish psi when I crank to start.

Whole process isn't near as messy as I would have guessed it to be...just a few drips run down the filter adapter but if I'm quick I catch those too.

 

I was just checking to see if it had a truck oil pan, 2wd pans have the plug in the back of the sump, car oil pans have the plug in the side of the sump.
If you like the hang down adapter but don't have room for a FL1A just use the shorter filter Chrysler used on their 383 and 440 engines, same threads and gasket size but half the length, that's what I used on the 428 in my 73

 

the drain plug is in the back of the sump just not centered on my 69 390, it is in the corner of the pan in the back. I may use that 4x4 pan since it is deeper and I have more oil and more is better.

 

Well I was busy trying to work out how I want to go and I thank everyone for all of your in put on the different scenarios for this truck. This is my first ford build. I built and raced chev. Houston International, green Valley, Porter drag strip, and a few cars I helped on, went on to Indianapolis 1/4 mile drag but were Chrysler B-Street Roadster Class. I have managed to acquire several FE Blocks and a 1970 429 block. The urge to go big and power full is hard to pacify, but I am going to keep my 69 truck a 390 FE block .030 bore and the crank I am still out to lunch on that one, I am going to stroke it or leave it the 390 crank. I am putting a new intake and carb on this engine and cam that has a little thump to it ( flat tappet or Roller). I have been looking at a set of KB flat top pistons .030. The decision for heads is still out for lunch. Go with a new set of aluminum or clean up and use the D2 heads I have. I will take the D2 heads apart and port and polish them my self. I do have a friend who will let me use his flow bench when I finish. I have line bored my 390 block cam and main bearing area. Ronnie is checking the block for square and will square the block if need. My 78 truck with a 460 has take my time lately since I have to rebuild the front end that was worn out, but now back to work on the 69.

 

Pictures of my 69 as I am getting apart.

 

The outside and the bed I need to replace or see if a new insert can be use.

 

From the pictures above you can see I have my work cut out, but at least the out side is not dented up and it is pretty much rust free. I will be adding power breaks, power steering, A/C, and changing the front drum brakes to disc. My funds are the slow down. Being retired you have to go in steps.

 

How are the cab mounts, around here that's the first thing to check on a bump side.