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Rust and Exploding Driveshafts

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  #16  
Old 06-17-2018, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Slowpoke Slim
OP,

What year is your truck?

How many miles are on the odometer?
Originally Posted by 82_F100_300Six
I was wondering that too
According to his profile, he has an '01 F-250 located in New York State.

Assuming his profile has not changed since joining here in '03, the miles then was 25 to 50K. So maybe 150 to 250 thousand miles after another 15 years?
 
  #17  
Old 06-17-2018, 11:45 AM
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Interesting prior rust thread, I assume it is the same truck one year ago:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ront-axle.html
 
  #18  
Old 06-17-2018, 03:32 PM
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No matter. Shouldn’t have happened.
 
  #19  
Old 06-18-2018, 08:10 AM
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Well, shoulda, coulda, woulda.........looking at the pitting on the exterior of the driveshaft on an older vehicle........what does the rest of the undercarriage look like??????? If it is all like that, maybe the whole thing belongs in the scrap yard. And if the rest still looks good, personally, I would have replaced that shaft a long time ago.......but, that is just me......part of what I call maintenance.
Sorry it happened, but......................
 
  #20  
Old 06-18-2018, 06:57 PM
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18 year old truck.

Zero preventive maintenance.

Blames Ford.

Seems legit.
 
  #21  
Old 06-18-2018, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Slowpoke Slim
18 year old truck.

Zero preventive maintenance.

Blames Ford.

Seems legit.
From post 7 of the thread I linked above:

I blame a dual mixture of 50% magnesium chloride de icing bribe and 125% of bad materials and corrosion engineering on the part of Ford. Calling them criminally incompetent would be an understatement.
That is over 100% blame

So no room there for blaming lack of preventive maintenance. I hate rust, and it is a deal breaker for any vehicle I would ever look at buying. I feel for all of you in the northern regions, rust sucks.

This vehicle went over 15 years! Still hard to accept that a new vehicle will have fist-sized holes in the wheel wells and door bottoms after five years. When I was younger, vehicles started falling apart after just a couple years.
 
  #22  
Old 06-18-2018, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by speedfreak78
Majority of steel was better 50 years ago. New steel will always be better than recycled steel, which makes it worse than the parent metal. There's always minor degradation from contaminates. I'd be willing to bet most new vehicles are majority recycled steel. Plus the fact everything was built thicker and heavier in the past.

At one point i owned a 78 Pontiac Bonneville and a 94 Chevy Caprice, both were built on the same chassis/ suspension from 78-96. The 78 had a heavier frame with less lightening holes and mostly just had surface rust underneath where the 94, a 16 yr newer vehicle had to be junked because the floors and rear frame rotted out. I knew the history on both cars, the 94 was washed religiously, the 78 I literally had to shovel mud and sand out of the quarter panel drops, it was just better materials.

Also, could it be Ford trying to save weight to meet more stringent fuel standards? I know they take paint weight into account in some racing and aviation.
where did the mythical contaminates come from in the “recycled” steel? Iron ore coming out of the ground forty years ago was filled with contaminants. Today the iron ore is concentrated into taconite for furnace feed, but still has contaminates.

Using steel doesn’t add additional contaminates so I fail to see the connection between recycled steel and corrosion.

It all meets the same spec when it comes out of the rolling mill.

Cars in the fifties never made it five years here without major rust issues. Today you still see ten to fifteen year old cars and trucks despite the increased use of salt and other, more aggressive chemicals on the roads. In the old days the engines were shot at the same time the bodies dissolved.. Now, thanks to emission standards driving engine technology, the bodies are often shot before the engine dies.
 
  #23  
Old 06-19-2018, 05:54 AM
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Is there a way to determine or test if a rusty driveshaft is almost to the breaking point? Maybe file down a little spot on it and see how quickly clean metal shows up?

My 2006 F350 driveshaft is also pretty rusty (northeast salt), but not sure if it’s just surface rust or deeper.


 
  #24  
Old 06-19-2018, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by seville009
Is there a way to determine or test if a rusty driveshaft is almost to the breaking point?
Floor it when the light turns green

One item from:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...xBS1YZdg-ZCbOL

If the slip assembly shows evidence of rust ... complete driveshaft replacement is necessary.
 
  #25  
Old 06-19-2018, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by DogRidesInBack
From post 7 of the thread I linked above:


That is over 100% blame

So no room there for blaming lack of preventive maintenance. I hate rust, and it is a deal breaker for any vehicle I would ever look at buying. I feel for all of you in the northern regions, rust sucks.

This vehicle went over 15 years! Still hard to accept that a new vehicle will have fist-sized holes in the wheel wells and door bottoms after five years. When I was younger, vehicles started falling apart after just a couple years.
OP back here. you got the math right, but the joke wrong
the truck is 17 years old (it's an 01) and it's now got 42k miles on it now.
And no, there's no excuse for not painting the driveshaft, or the poor coatings that Ford uses. I'd like to see how many people on this forum would take a bare sheet metal part, or even one just in primer, and put it on their trucks.
it's the height of comedy that Ford puts a lot of resources into painting the shiny top side, but just primers or leaves bare the underside of the trucks where all the real exposure takes place.

yes, you can take the high road and argue that obsessive preventative maintenance would have saved the truck, but there is the legal concept of 'standard of care' or what is a normal and reasonable expectation of the care one would put forth. I can't see coating the underside of the truck on an annual basis as reasonable or normal. Likewise, I can't see making trucks with uncoated metals when they send them to sell in the rust belt as reasonable or normal either. Toyota took it on the chin for NOT galvanizing its frames, but the bodies were dipped and they rarely went bad. Ford doesn't do anything. The bodies rot out, the beds fall off, the frames hole through, and now apparently driveshafts goes boom. We're all ok with that? You can call out my truck for being old, and it is, but it's lived a charmed, low mile life.
 
  #26  
Old 06-19-2018, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by FractureCritical
OP back here. you got the math right, but the joke wrong
First, I do want to thank you for being good-natured with my jokes.

And driveshafts breaking is really not a joking matter, and I am glad this did not happen to you on the highway while pulling a 15K 5er. You might not be here to complain at all in that case.

I also noted above you have had previous rust issues on this truck (I think it was this truck, from your front end thread). So as much as you want to put this on Ford, you also knew how bad road brine and salt in your area was back then.

Time for a thorough inspection, there might be other parts on your truck only hanging on because the "rust termites" are holding hands.
 
  #27  
Old 06-19-2018, 06:59 AM
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So if you buy a brand new truck, and NEVER change the engine oil, and 18 years later, the engine locks up, are you going to blame the manufacturer? It's their fault, right? They should have known that just RUNNING the engine for 18 years can make it go BOOM!

Time for a class action lawsuit to get Ford to buy us all new engines.

And the '19's will be out in August-Sept. Your truck is 18 years old.

I also live in the rust belt. They use salt/brine here every winter. Winters last a long time here. But I actively attempt to keep my underbody from rusting. How? By washing the damn truck. Pretty easy, every other gas fill (give or take), I take it through the auto wash, which has underbody wash to spray off the brine and salt.

And you knew over a year ago that your truck was rusted very badly. What have you done to your truck since then to try and mitigate/repair/reduce the rust damage that you knew was there? Any other potentially hazardous rust areas on your truck that you're currently ignoring? Like brakes (backing plates, brackets, master cylinder, brake lines, calipers)? Are you going to wait until one of those fails before performing any repair action on them too? And then blame Ford for that, claiming criminal-blah-blah, class action-blah-blah then too?

Look, you're driving an old truck. I get it. I love old trucks. Used to have one. But they come with a trade off to the lower price tag. That's an increase in maintenance. If the previous owner(s) have ignored it, it will stack up on you. But that too, should be reflected in the price you pay to buy it. You just have to walk into it with your eyes open at purchase time.

And Toyota "took it on the chin" because they had trucks BREAKING IN HALF. Like trucks a few years old, driving down the road, and BOOM, two halves where a truck used to be. And this wasn't just happening in "rust belt" states, but all over. Totally different situation. Not trucks with 18 years in service that were ignored in the rust belt. But nice reach/grab anyway.

If you really want to find someone to sue over, try your state/county/city for using salt or brine, which is known to increase maintenance requirements to prevent rust in vehicles. Maybe you can sue them to cover the costs of rust repairs? Good luck with that too.
 
  #28  
Old 06-20-2018, 09:31 PM
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That's rusted from the outside, you can clearly see layers of steel flaxing off. A little maintenance would have saved the shaft, wire wheel and paint go a LONG way
 
  #29  
Old 06-20-2018, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Slowpoke Slim
So if you buy a brand new truck, and NEVER change the engine oil, and 18 years later, the engine locks up, are you going to blame the manufacturer? It's their fault, right? They should have known that just RUNNING the engine for 18 years can make it go BOOM!

Time for a class action lawsuit to get Ford to buy us all new engines.

And the '19's will be out in August-Sept. Your truck is 18 years old.

I also live in the rust belt. They use salt/brine here every winter. Winters last a long time here. But I actively attempt to keep my underbody from rusting. How? By washing the damn truck. Pretty easy, every other gas fill (give or take), I take it through the auto wash, which has underbody wash to spray off the brine and salt.

And you knew over a year ago that your truck was rusted very badly. What have you done to your truck since then to try and mitigate/repair/reduce the rust damage that you knew was there? Any other potentially hazardous rust areas on your truck that you're currently ignoring? Like brakes (backing plates, brackets, master cylinder, brake lines, calipers)? Are you going to wait until one of those fails before performing any repair action on them too? And then blame Ford for that, claiming criminal-blah-blah, class action-blah-blah then too?

Look, you're driving an old truck. I get it. I love old trucks. Used to have one. But they come with a trade off to the lower price tag. That's an increase in maintenance. If the previous owner(s) have ignored it, it will stack up on you. But that too, should be reflected in the price you pay to buy it. You just have to walk into it with your eyes open at purchase time.

And Toyota "took it on the chin" because they had trucks BREAKING IN HALF. Like trucks a few years old, driving down the road, and BOOM, two halves where a truck used to be. And this wasn't just happening in "rust belt" states, but all over. Totally different situation. Not trucks with 18 years in service that were ignored in the rust belt. But nice reach/grab anyway.

If you really want to find someone to sue over, try your state/county/city for using salt or brine, which is known to increase maintenance requirements to prevent rust in vehicles. Maybe you can sue them to cover the costs of rust repairs? Good luck with that too.
Agree completely!
 
  #30  
Old 06-21-2018, 10:37 AM
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Umm - I gotta agree with Fracture here - you're your basic consumer, you read your owner's manual and diligently follow all recommended maintenance. Not sure I see a "check how rusted your drive shaft is" in the recommended maintenance section. Or anywhere that says "if you have excessive rust or live in a rust prone area, check your drive shaft." Seriously folks, how many people would check that? Hell, how many Ford dealers would check the thickness of the drive shaft. They may check the needle bearings but the thickness of the shaft itself? Not likely. Now I POR15ed mine, but I don't consider myself "your basic consumer".
 


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