I know exactly what bolt you are talking about. I always leave those rear valve cover bolts out when I put it back together. Ford actually reduced the amount of bolts when they redesigned the heads in 2008 and left that bolt off. A 8mm swivel socket with a short extension will help get to it. I've never had to remove the starter cables to get the head off. I just lay the harness to the side.

 

I was concerned about noise from the injectors. If I hear hard metal to metal knock, then probably too late.
I just didn't know if it would be a worth while to replace injectors before they fail.

 

Hi If you have an 05 5.4L, I would change the injectors right away. You can get a whole set rebuilt on Ebay for $100 - $150. It's real easy to change. At least a whole easier then the mess I'm into.

 

Good morning 70f100longbed, can you please tell me the secret to the AC lines quick disconnects to remove the accumulator? Is the insert for the clamp on the front or the back. I cannot get the tool to insert. It fits snug around the pipe. I am sure it is the right size.

 

The tool inserts from the back, It helps to push the fitting together and twist it a little to break loose the o-rings. There is a circular spring that holds the fitting together and the tool spreads the spring. You should feel the tool slip by the spring. I hope you have had the system evacuated first.

 

Yes, I got it off and yes I did evac first. OK, Round three. Please see pictures below. Did you remove the transmission dip stick. Not sure how this head is going to come off with the exhaust manifold on but I am not there yet anyways. Two questions please:
1. I have never taken a timing cover off a V8. Is it all one unit for both cylinder blocks or two seporate covers ? Do I need to remove the tension-er and Idler pulley on passenger side.
2. Is it necessary to take off the fan? I do not have a fan clutch and no car to get to the auto parts store.

Very hot in Chesapeake today. Somebody bring me some water!

 

The trans dipstick can stay but there is a 18mm bolt holding it to the head. The timing cover is one piece so you need to pull the other valve cover to get it off. The fan needs to come off as do the water pump pulley. I would search youtube for timing cover removal.

 

Hi 70f, the last thing I have before removing the timing chain cover is finish removing the intake manifold. I removed eight bolts see picture above. I am aware of the bolt in the back holding the harness.. I can't seem to pri-off the intake. Am i missing something?

 

I usually pull the alternator and water outlet/thermostat housing just to get them out of the way. I can't remember how many bolts there are on the the intake but 8 sounds low to me. There are probably 2 more hiding somewhere. I admire you taking on such a huge job.

 

Thank you, I am kinda admiring myself for taking on such a big job. I hope it works otherwise I will have been very foolish. But I had to try because my pride told me to fix it since I broke it. I love my truck, it has been very good up to this point. I watched all 4 of the "Maculoco" timing chain replacement series..they are really good. Is it really that difficult to remove the chain? Do I have to do all that to remove the head? I feel like when i remove the head the whole thing is going to fall apart like a Jenga pile.

 

Yes there is a lot that has to come off. You are basically taking the engine down to almost a short block.

 

It would have been easier to replace the engine,. I am on my last bolt (the exhaust manifold). figures the bolt is stripped. By any chance are you available for telephone support tomorrow when I pull the timing chain off. I would be happy to pay whatever your hourly fee is via Paypal. I am afraid I am going to do something and not know hoe to get it back right. Please let me know my number is 7578103824.

Dale Gamboni

 

But replacing the rod is much more fun!! I'm not available tomorrow but I described how to set the cams and crank to take the chain off in post #15. Are you replacing the phasers too?