Oh great! that is so good to hear you say that. It's just that POST 62 video says if the piston is not TDS on the block the rod is bent. Anyways we will continue. Also, I see the "dimple", you pointed out is post 72, you can see it on slide 1 off post 44, "very obscure". We are proceeding! However, tonight is dinner and a date with the old lady. Back at you probably early Sunday morning after church. As always never enough gratitude to a mechanic whois truly knowledgeable......Thank you again!
Sincerely,
Dale Gamboni

 

Out of business for the rest of the Day. Trying to remove old exhaust manifold bolt (with heat and liquid wrench because it was stripped) and it twisted off in the manifold. I need to go to a machine shop tomorrow and get it out or re-tapped.
@ Redfish or any guru, Redfish posted . What do you recommend I soak the lashes in?. Is a good cleaning with air and brake cleaner sufficient? As always thank you for your advice, hopefully tomorrow I can start putting this thing back together. One more thing, is there anything I can be doing in advance of re-installing the head? Like, is it OK to replace the Phasers while the Overhead cams are out? I am in no hurry a friend has lent me a car.

Happy Sunday ya'all!

 

I use a oil bottle with the side cut out to soak parts in. How did all of the roller followers feel? Any play in the roller bearings?

 

Hi Sorry, so late it has been a yard day. Please help me to make sure we are on the same page. Am I correct with my understanding in the picture below. If so, the rollers are all clear and free of slack, one lashers sticks:

 

Hi 70F100longbed, Are you available to go in reverse with me? I finally got the exhaust manifold bolt out and I swear If I could, I would have eaten it! It's simply too hot out side to mess with something that difficult. Anyhow would please read the post above and start freash with me on the pictures below?
First off, the cylinders look horrible. The Head has been off for 3 weeks now and I guess from the anti-freeze or climate the rust in the cylinders is a concern for me. Is there anything I should do beside wipe and clean with brake cleaner?
Second, in the yellow bin, all the rollers are in the same order they came out. They all have a tiny bit of side-to-side play even the notorious # four cylinder is the same ( no pitting or obvious wear)
Third, is it necessary to replace the manifold gasket ( Picture 3) it dosn't have any abnormal wear
Finally, I will go at the pace I need to get this truck back together right. If it's right and does not work.....OK I can live with that, I'll just buy some old beater till I can get a new engine. But, If I put it together wrong that will really kick me in the As#.
Please help. and thank you.
Dale Gamboni

 

Don't worry too much about the rust, it's only surface rust and the rings will scrape it off once you get her running. All you need to do is wipe down the cylinders with a light coat of oil. I would replace the manifold gaskets as well as all the studs and nuts. You don't want them to break 2 weeks after it's back together. A small amount of side to side movement is normal you just don't want any up and down movement. Don't worry about me, I'm not bailing on you👍👍

 

Me I would replace all rollers and lashes . Too hard to get in there later . Change those gaskets too . This engine eats parts .

 

I second this recommendation. I recognize the additional cost (approx. $275) is distasteful, but its almost impossible to adequately 'test' the lash adjusters, and those darned little roller bearings have made billions of revolutions around the camshaft. ANY slack in one will result in a 'tick'.

 

I soaked all my new lashes in motor oil overnight after hand pumping them . But I realize now that since i replaced all I didn't have to keep them in order the way ford says . If you have the toothed holding tool it is best to change phasers installed . It is a two step torque on procedure with the throw away bolt . I bought that toothed tool and it came in handy since you use it 4 times . Didn't like the vise grip method not that it won't work . Didn't like the $$$valve tool it is not necessary .
I didn't clean mine much since they were hard to test and I had no trust in them at 130k . After all one roller was thrown to the side . I did have the egg cartons marked in case I put them back in same spot .
I'm sure you will be a good leader by the time this is done .

 

I have a question. The bearing that came off the #4 piston shaft lines up only one way. In other words you can tell from the wear how they were on the old shaft. My problem is due to the groves on the shaft and end cap, the bearing does not install that way??? Is it necessary both side of the bearing be fitted in the shaft and end cap groves?

 

The tabs on the bearing goes into the slots in the rod and cap. The cap only fits one way and it's slot will be on the same side as the slot in the rod

 

OK I got it the slots are on the same side but they have to line up?

 

Did that cap come with that rod? When they are assembled there shouldnt be any gap between the cap and rod. The bearings are correct the tabs will be on the same side but opposite each other. I dont like the way that cap looks also You should put new rod bolts in they are torque to yield.

 

Hi 70f,, something has been bothering me ( in the back of my mind). I guess that's why I have not gone full steam and put this back together. This bearing not fitting right has been bothering me and something you have commented on 2 or 3 times now. What are you thinking 70f? Do you think maybe the crankshaft got messed up when it hydro-locked and messed up the the bearing cap? God I hope not!!! that metal is some pretty thick stuff but I agree it's not tight like we like it. Anyhow, the shaft is new so only the cap could be bad???? Any thoughts? Also remember the picture above only shows the end cap and shaft finger tight. Haaaaa...I want to start putting back together but I am concerned and NEVER want to do this again!

 

So if I read that right you have the original rod cap on the new rod? If so then that will not work you must use the cap that came with the rod. If the rod didnt come with a cap then take it back and get another one. The caps are "fractured" and cannot be mixed up. The big ends are scored then the cap is broken off during manufacture creating a rough surface that mates together perfectly. This makes the joint stronger vs machined caps. No two rods are the same.