How do you remove stuck valves in a Flathead V-8? I don't care if I wreak them since they all will be replaced. Do you cut them and pry the valve out. Then pound the seat out? I have 90% of them stuck open. Managed to turn the camshaft until I blew the timing gear.

 

Inside the valley (under the intake manifold) you can pull the valve guide retaining clips and the valve guide and the valves will come right out.

 

I've tried removing the clips but they won't budge and I doubt that the valves would pull out easily.

 

I used to use a slide hammer with a hook end on it to pull them retainer clips out, then you can pry that whole valve assembly out, spring and all as an assembly.

 

MTFLAT is there any other ways for removing the valves?

 

Nathan, I s'pose anything that doesn't destroy the block has been used. Larry gave you the most straight forward method but if they're rusted too bad they can be about impossible to pull.

I take it you're working on a late model flatty - 8BA or equiv. rather than an earlier engine with mushroom valve stems.

I also understand the cam moves at least some? Probably not if you destroyed the cam/crank gears. I blew one up a couple years ago too!

If you're soaking the valve train with something to penetrate, give it time to work and then give it some more time. Patience is your best tool here.

They made a tool that is a rod with a bend in it that fits around the head of the valve and allows you to drive the valve guide down toward the cam enough to pull the clips Larry was talking about.

The trouble comes when the valve stem is rusted/bonded to the guide. As a method of last resort I've taken a long chisel and shattered the valve stem just below the guide. It's messy, but you can then get the spring/keeper out. Then you can also snap off the valve head so you can get to the guide to drive it down until the clip comes free. Just be careful - pieces will fly where you don't want them. Good luck - let us know how you get along with it.

 

Thanks I'll try the punch. I put my other timing gear on the engine and can do a full rotation.

 

Don't use the punch method since it makes the valve a LOT harder to remove. I removed the valve retaining clips and with a pry bar pulled the valves out. I then punched the guides out. WARNING some of the springs will shoot out.

 

Good going! I have rebuilt a number of these flatheads but it has been a long time ago. Is this on an 8BA or an older one?

 

51 DUELLER, I ASKED MY DAD (67 YRS OLD)

1. SPOT WELD A HALF INCH COURSE THREAD NUT TO THE VALVE.
2. THREAD A LONG BOLT INTO THE NUT
3. GRAB THE TOP OF THE BOLT WITH VICEGRIPS
4. HAMMER AWAY
I KNOW IT SOUND CRAZY BUT THAT`S WHAT HE SAID..

IF IT WERE ME I`D TRY JB WELD BEFORE I EVEN THOUGHT OF PUTTING A WELDER THAT CLOSE TO THE BLOCK, GOOD LUCK

 

If you need specifications on that engine, I have them all. Let me know.

 

It's a C1BA block (the C denotes Canadian made) with 8BA heads. I have my truck shop manual and Ron Bishop's How to rebuild the famous ford flathead. Thanks when I need info I know where to get it.

 

You need a pickle fork to be able to pull the guide down so the clip can be removed.
Found one at an obsolete ford parts store.

Jon

 

I dismantled two engines, both being '49-'53. The valves moved
in the guides, not easily, but they were not locked solid. I was able to pry up the spring and retainer, remove the locks, and once the valve head was pried up clear of the seat, the valves could be worked out. Twisting and using a rust penetrant helped.
With the valves out it was then a matter of using a short section of pipe as a punch to knock the guide down far enough to remove the clip. The pipe being softer than the guide didn't do any damage. With the clip out, to remove the guide I had to use a homemade puller arrangement with a plate resting on the top of the block, and a bolt going through the guide with a heavy washer and a nut. I welded a bolt small enough to pass through the guide to a larger bolt to use as a puller.