valve adjustment
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,207
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From: S.E. Louisiana;so far USA
The valve clearance adjustment procedures for the six cylinder engine are shown on pages 21-11-2 and 21-11-3 of the 1976 Ford Truck Shop Manual, Vol. 2 (engine). There is no diagram as such shown. There are 3 photos. It is a lot to transcribe. If I attached copies of the pages you may not be able to read the small print.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: S.E. Louisiana;so far USA
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
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Doesn't that type of rocker get adjusted when its valve/pushrod/lifter is on the base circle of the cam? I know the pedestal-mounted ones are done that way.
If that is the case, you can just start with cylinder #1 and rotate the crank until the piston is at TDC of the compression stroke. You can hold a finger over the spark plug hole to verify this. At TDC compression, the valves will be closed, and you adjust them to the torque spec - and if they're like the pedestal-mounted ones, there will be a specific range of screw turns, where you want to hit the specified torque. I think it's 26 Ft. Lbs. within 3/4ths to 1 and a half turns, but the stud mounted ones are probably different.
So once you get the specs, just work your way from front to back, adjusting all 12 rockers, while making sure that the one you are adjusting is on the base circle of the cam - where the valve is closed.
If that is the case, you can just start with cylinder #1 and rotate the crank until the piston is at TDC of the compression stroke. You can hold a finger over the spark plug hole to verify this. At TDC compression, the valves will be closed, and you adjust them to the torque spec - and if they're like the pedestal-mounted ones, there will be a specific range of screw turns, where you want to hit the specified torque. I think it's 26 Ft. Lbs. within 3/4ths to 1 and a half turns, but the stud mounted ones are probably different.
So once you get the specs, just work your way from front to back, adjusting all 12 rockers, while making sure that the one you are adjusting is on the base circle of the cam - where the valve is closed.
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Freshman User
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Tried that first.bent and broke every one. Started over and went to tdc #1 and adj. #1 in & ext.#2 in. #3 ext. #4int.#5 ext. Rolled eng. 1 rev. Did the rest. By adj. I mean I loosened each lifter till rod spun in fingers. Snuged it up and added one more turn. Started engine and it runs rougher than before.
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Freshman User
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Got them adjusted! Started by dividing the harmonic balancer into three parts. Circomfronce of 21" so three spaces of 7". At TDC #1 took lash out of pushrod by tightening lifter nut till it quit spinning in my fingers, then 3/4 of a turn more.Turned engine 1/3rd of a turn clockwise and adjusted next set in firing order. Repeated for each one. Engine sounds great.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,217
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Good deal!
I've gone through that process three times on the 5.0/302 in my Mustang, but it has the pedestal-mounted rockers. I always just went from cylinder #1 intake and exhaust, to #8 intake and exhaust, straight acrossed each head, rolling over the engine at least eight times in order to have each cylinder at TDC.
I haven't been brave enough yet, to try the method where you only roll the crank over two or three times, but the truth is that when you have it all set up to adjust #1, with both valves at TDC/closed, there are actually several other valves which are closed, and if you know where they are, you barely spend any time turning the crank. That's what it sounds like you did.
The 289/302 in my old '68 Cougar had a tick when I got it, and I simply removed the valve cover and started the engine, and gradually tightened the offending rocker until it was quiet. That's really my only experience with a stud mounted setup...
I've gone through that process three times on the 5.0/302 in my Mustang, but it has the pedestal-mounted rockers. I always just went from cylinder #1 intake and exhaust, to #8 intake and exhaust, straight acrossed each head, rolling over the engine at least eight times in order to have each cylinder at TDC.
I haven't been brave enough yet, to try the method where you only roll the crank over two or three times, but the truth is that when you have it all set up to adjust #1, with both valves at TDC/closed, there are actually several other valves which are closed, and if you know where they are, you barely spend any time turning the crank. That's what it sounds like you did.
The 289/302 in my old '68 Cougar had a tick when I got it, and I simply removed the valve cover and started the engine, and gradually tightened the offending rocker until it was quiet. That's really my only experience with a stud mounted setup...
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 10
Good deal!
I've gone through that process three times on the 5.0/302 in my Mustang, but it has the pedestal-mounted rockers. I always just went from cylinder #1 intake and exhaust, to #8 intake and exhaust, straight acrossed each head, rolling over the engine at least eight times in order to have each cylinder at TDC.
I haven't been brave enough yet, to try the method where you only roll the crank over two or three times, but the truth is that when you have it all set up to adjust #1, with both valves at TDC/closed, there are actually several other valves which are closed, and if you know where they are, you barely spend any time turning the crank. That's what it sounds like you did.
The 289/302 in my old '68 Cougar had a tick when I got it, and I simply removed the valve cover and started the engine, and gradually tightened the offending rocker until it was quiet. That's really my only experience with a stud mounted setup...
I've gone through that process three times on the 5.0/302 in my Mustang, but it has the pedestal-mounted rockers. I always just went from cylinder #1 intake and exhaust, to #8 intake and exhaust, straight acrossed each head, rolling over the engine at least eight times in order to have each cylinder at TDC.
I haven't been brave enough yet, to try the method where you only roll the crank over two or three times, but the truth is that when you have it all set up to adjust #1, with both valves at TDC/closed, there are actually several other valves which are closed, and if you know where they are, you barely spend any time turning the crank. That's what it sounds like you did.
The 289/302 in my old '68 Cougar had a tick when I got it, and I simply removed the valve cover and started the engine, and gradually tightened the offending rocker until it was quiet. That's really my only experience with a stud mounted setup...
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,627
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From: NE Texas
Blue and White - " Bump it over again until the intake is well depressed and adjust the intake. " I think you meant to say bump it over again until the intake is well depressed and adjust the EXHAUST.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
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Yes I did. Thank you.
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fordman_68
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Sep 16, 2009 06:49 PM