The new
alternator and regulator replaced tooking at the harness im missing wires in the i terminal and not charging 1976 f150 460 with c6 trans

 

11.5 volts on s terminal on regulator. Any help anyone?

 

Ive hooked a ground to the alt and no change and i straight wired from f to the pos side of battery

 

ON a Ford truck "with gauges" you do not use that "I" position on the regulator and there are only three positions used. F, S, and A (although there are two Yellow wires usually on the "A" position).
If your truck has a "charge indicator light" instead of an ammeter, then your wiring needs the other regulator wiring positioning.

When testing the connector, the wires read like this:
1. The Yellow "A" wires will have full battery voltage all the time. Measure the battery, then measure the wire and you should see the same voltage.
2. The Green w/red "S" wire will have battery voltage only when the key is in the RUN position. Not ACC position.
3. The Orange "F" wire will be reading various voltages, but generally you should see zero at the connector. Only when the regulator is regulating will you see varying readings on the Orange wire.

In fact, jumpering the Yellow wire to the Orange wire while the engine is running will lead to the alternator putting out literally it's maximum available power. So you do this and you might see as much as 17v on the battery terminals. And you will also hear the engine drag down a couple hundred rpm from the load. This is called "full fielding" the alternator.
It's a test only though, and should only be run this way for a minute or two at the most. As short a time as possible in other words because it makes the alternator work too hard, puts too much power into the system, is not good for the battery or anything else probably to do it for very long. Short term is fine though, as it's an old traditional alternator test.
I would never do that on a newer vehicle with computer controls, but our old stuff is fine.

How are the wires connected on the back of the alternator?
1. Orange should be to the FLD post.
2. Large Black (probably with yellow stripe) should be on the BAT post
3. White w/black stripe wire (if applicable) would be on the STA post.
4. Either a separate ground wire, OR the metal ring sticking out of the side of the rubber strain relief holding the other wires will be on one of the bare studs, or perhaps one marked "GRD" on the back of the alt.

The other end of that ground wire is attached to the mounting screw for the regulator on the fender.

Paul

 

Oops, just read your last post.
If you put battery voltage to the F on the alternator and did not get any output, then you need to have the unit taken back and tested where you bought it.

Paul

 

Sorry, before you even take it back, make sure that the Black w/yellow wire is intact and tight on the BAT terminal of the battery.

Did you put battery voltage to the Orange wire up at the connector? Or down directly to the alternator's FLD post?
If the wire, then the same goes for the Orange wire, making sure it's on the proper FLD terminal and has a good connection.

If both of those pass inspection, take the unit back and have it tested.

Paul