I am finishing up installing a new wiring harness for my 77F150 4X4.
The kit came with a voltage regulator harness that has the correct plug for the regulator. Coming out of this connector are a "field" wire, and a "stator" wire which both connect to lugs on the alternator and a battery wire that connects to the battery side of the solenoid.

My dilema is that the alternator will not start charging unless I temporarily jump the field wire to the battery to excite the alternator. Then it will keep charging unless I disconnect the regulator. Then when I reconnect it, it still does not charge unless I jump the field over the battery again.

When it is charging, it does go up to 15.25 volts which seems a bit high.

The regulator is new, and the old one is giving me the same result.

Thanks in advance,

Robert

 

Mis-post.

Will edit

 

Okay,

I pulled the stator wire out of the connector to the regulator, now the alternator doesn't charge unless I jump the field to the battery and as soon as I remove the jumper wire, it stops charging.

I reconnected the stator wire, and when I jump out the field, it starts charging and stays charging after I remove the jumper wire.

The new guy at Autozone says the alternaotor checks out okay.

If you have the regulator's mounting face pointing towards you (leaning over the firewall to do the work) the three right most connections are used.

 

I have pulled up a wiring daigram from my manual and notice that they show 3 wires running to the alt.

F = Orange
S = White/Black
? = Black/Red

I'm going out to my truck to verify.

 

I'm wondering if your voltage regulator is good. The alternator does have to have the excitation voltage to charge...I can't remember where that comes from but it sounds like maybe it's fed back from the voltage regulator....also I think over 15 volts is too much...both of these make me suspicious of the regulator. I'd get a wiring diagram and be sure it's wired right and if you don't find the problem there then I'd replace the regulator.

Good Luck

Tracy

 

I thought I posted this earlier ?

 

I'll keep messing around with it and see what happens with another regulator.
I'll see if they offer another brand besides Wells.

Also, on another note, my turn signal indicators in the dash aren't working. I had to run wires from the output of the flashers to the instrument cluster connector.
From what I could tell it should be pins #7 and #13 for the indicator lights, but I may be wrong.

I used the old Ford wire colors for those leads and traced them back to my old connector, and that was the pin #'s they were terminated to. Worse comes to worse, I'll just take the cluster back out and break out the ohm meter and find out the correct pin #'s.

I thought maybe you had that bit of info in your archives, which are amazingly thorough I must say.

Other than that, all my electrical gremlins are gone. Even the gear indicator on the column lights up now with all the dash lights.

Thanks for the help.

 

Here another diagram https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...109673&width=0

 

LH TS indicator is position # 7

RH TS Indicator is Position #14.

Looking at rear of cluster Position #1 is located at top left hand side running downward to position #9.

#10 is at the lower right hand side of connection running upward to #18.

 

Okay, the alternator is charging and holding exactly 14.5 volts at any RPM. Mil1ion and 1975Ford, thanks a lot for those diagrams and the general info.

The wire that I though was "Stator" (labeled "sta" along the wire) had to be wired from the regulator to a 12 volt source with the key on. Luckily, my MSD feed wire that gets 12 volts when running ran right past the regulator. So now I have a spare regulator that is going in the glove box.

I have one of the turn signal indicator lights wires to #7, which is correct, so I bought spare bulbs today while out. Now I need to run the one from #13 to #14 and see what happens. Also, the high beam indicator isn't working, which I think is a bulb issue.

It's all about the little victories on this thing. I think the truck got hit by lightning during Hurricane Katrina or something, cause almost every bulb was fried, and the original MSD box was cooked, along with the old regulator.

 

Doh ! I forgot to include original wire colours for those Indicator lights.

Did centech match them colour wise ?

Glad I could help

 

I have jury duty tomorrow, which I am going to be as vulgar and ill behaved as possible to get out early. I was thinking about going to the XXX store and buying every sordid magazine I could find and bring those with me to read in hopes of getting dismissed quickly.

If I make it out of there early enough, the dash is coming back out again to sort out all my light problems.

Also, does the reverse lights get a feed from a switch on the trans (C6) or the column? I was 95% done on my tail light harness and realized none of the wires were for reverse lights.

If I get those working, the truck will be 100% street legal except for the brake tag expired by 4 years. That will be an amazing acomplishment for this truck.

I took it out for the trial run, and it'll still light em up from a dead stop, keep spinning them till about 5k RPM, where I shift it into second, and it squeels them again for another few seconds.

The guy in the rice mobile next to me didn't expect the 6000lb 4X4 that is 3 different colors (red hood, fenders, cab, and doors, orange bed from a 76, and I consider surface rust a color) to get up and pull away from him when he decided to drop the clutch at about 4k RPM from the red light to seem fast.

I think that truck gets faster the longer it sits up. As soon as I get the brakes a little more firm, I'm leaving it with my dad when I go offshore so it'll still get driven around.

The only new issue, engine wise, is a leaking valve cover gasket.
Not bad for an engine I assembled on a piece of plywood in my parents back yard about 10 years ago and haven't had to put a wrench to it since.