Key left in "RUN" position
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,616
Likes: 1,185
From: San Jose, CA
Many stores will have access to the Motorcraft stuff, even if they don't happen to keep them in stock. Then there is always the internet of course...
Me, personally I would take the time to visit a junkyard and grab the oldest and most original looking one I could find.
I realize this is not the easiest route, and not even the most reliable anymore as by now most of our vintage trucks are no longer sporting their original modules. And that's if your local yard even has one of our trucks in stock anymore!
That said, anything that has an old Ford label or Motorcraft or Autolite labeling on it would be a good choice.
And one thing to be aware of no matter what year your truck is, is the color of the wire strain relief ("grommet") where the wires exit the module. If your current one has a Red grommet, that's the box you need. If it's the more common Blue grommet module, that's what you need. Generally speaking, the different color strain relief modules DO NOT interchange even remotely. Not unless you want to re-wire it entirely!
Oh, and as a good practice, install the new/old one in immediately to make sure it works. Most junkyards will return a defective one no problem. But even a brand new one can be bad (probably even a Motorcraft I assume?) so it's just good practice to test before putting in the box.
Paul
Me, personally I would take the time to visit a junkyard and grab the oldest and most original looking one I could find.
I realize this is not the easiest route, and not even the most reliable anymore as by now most of our vintage trucks are no longer sporting their original modules. And that's if your local yard even has one of our trucks in stock anymore!
That said, anything that has an old Ford label or Motorcraft or Autolite labeling on it would be a good choice.
And one thing to be aware of no matter what year your truck is, is the color of the wire strain relief ("grommet") where the wires exit the module. If your current one has a Red grommet, that's the box you need. If it's the more common Blue grommet module, that's what you need. Generally speaking, the different color strain relief modules DO NOT interchange even remotely. Not unless you want to re-wire it entirely!
Oh, and as a good practice, install the new/old one in immediately to make sure it works. Most junkyards will return a defective one no problem. But even a brand new one can be bad (probably even a Motorcraft I assume?) so it's just good practice to test before putting in the box.
Paul
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 567
Likes: 3
I called my local parts houses and no Bueno on getting an authentic Motorcraft module, they only offer the cheapie overseas modules. The idea of checking out the salvage yards is a good one. Thank you.
I will also check out Ebay and Google, you never know what will pop on there! A buddy of mine recently replaced his original 43yr old Motorcraft module with a replacement from Napa, holding both in my hands the weight difference was striking, the older Motorcraft module was easily three times the weight of the cheapie foreign module. What exactly that means I do not know, maybe nothing at all, but it just felt "cheap".
I will also check out Ebay and Google, you never know what will pop on there! A buddy of mine recently replaced his original 43yr old Motorcraft module with a replacement from Napa, holding both in my hands the weight difference was striking, the older Motorcraft module was easily three times the weight of the cheapie foreign module. What exactly that means I do not know, maybe nothing at all, but it just felt "cheap".
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,616
Likes: 1,185
From: San Jose, CA
I agree. Heavier just feels better.
But for all we know the weight difference is simply that modern electronics are smaller and lighter inside the case. But I doubt that's all there is to it.
I would bet that they cheap out on the seemingly unimportant outer case, when that is in fact a very important heat-dissipating device. Not to mention that the heavier case probably reduces certain vibration frequencies that might have a negative effect on the now more delicate electronics.
And they probably cheap out on the potting material too.
You know, I haven't looked in years, but MSD used to make some very robust DS-II modules. Both standard and "timing control" units. The latter having a dash-mounted dial so you could change the timing on the fly.
That's the one I used, typically just to compensate for different altitudes and any poor fuel I might get. That let me run at a relatively high advance value, and retard it on the fly if I heard any pinging.
But mostly I just advanced it as altitude increased to hopefully regain a little bit of the lost oomph.
Maybe they've got some good quality standard replacements still?
Paul
But for all we know the weight difference is simply that modern electronics are smaller and lighter inside the case. But I doubt that's all there is to it.
I would bet that they cheap out on the seemingly unimportant outer case, when that is in fact a very important heat-dissipating device. Not to mention that the heavier case probably reduces certain vibration frequencies that might have a negative effect on the now more delicate electronics.
And they probably cheap out on the potting material too.
You know, I haven't looked in years, but MSD used to make some very robust DS-II modules. Both standard and "timing control" units. The latter having a dash-mounted dial so you could change the timing on the fly.
That's the one I used, typically just to compensate for different altitudes and any poor fuel I might get. That let me run at a relatively high advance value, and retard it on the fly if I heard any pinging.
But mostly I just advanced it as altitude increased to hopefully regain a little bit of the lost oomph.
Maybe they've got some good quality standard replacements still?
Paul
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,616
Likes: 1,185
From: San Jose, CA
Another trick, if you can't find an OE replacement, and you don't mind tinkering (or happen to actually like it) would be to gut an old Dura Spark module and install an always-easy-to-find and usually less expensive GM 4-pin module of high quality. They can be had from companies like MSD, Painless, Pertronix and others.
Plenty of people have done this trick over the years. Looks like a DS-II on the outside, but with a good quality module inside.
But all that's only if you don't have another option. Or as I said, like to tinker with such things.
Paul
Plenty of people have done this trick over the years. Looks like a DS-II on the outside, but with a good quality module inside.
But all that's only if you don't have another option. Or as I said, like to tinker with such things.
Paul
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2018
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1Ton, I would prefer to stay with the Motorcraft stuff, I do like to "tinker" but electronics are not my strong suit, so I proceed with caution on all matters electrical.
I believe you are correct in stating the OEM module case is heavier/thicker material, it's also "finned" for heat dissipation, unlike the cheaper replacements.
I know of guys still running nearly 50yr old Motorcraft modules, but yet cheap Napa replacements burning out in less than 5yrs. They are not the same.
I believe you are correct in stating the OEM module case is heavier/thicker material, it's also "finned" for heat dissipation, unlike the cheaper replacements.
I know of guys still running nearly 50yr old Motorcraft modules, but yet cheap Napa replacements burning out in less than 5yrs. They are not the same.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,616
Likes: 1,185
From: San Jose, CA
Well then, I think we need to take a trip over to the Midnight Auto Supply at one of your buddy's houses and grab a known-good 50 year old module as a spare!
Just kidding. But obviously the thought did cross my mind, so i can't hide the mindset completely!
Paul
Just kidding. But obviously the thought did cross my mind, so i can't hide the mindset completely!
Paul
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2018
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Likes: 3
Lol I hear ya! If I can't find a NOS Motorcraft module on ebay I will try your junkyard idea, the new stuff just does not impress me, it's almost garbage right outta the box!
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,616
Likes: 1,185
From: San Jose, CA
Ok, so maybe my frustration is turning me into a serial exaggerator. But that doesn't mean that a high percentage of stuff is turning out to not work right out of the box, or fail within a very short time.
We've had an epic number of quick failures of Ford style starter relays over the last ten years or so. Starters, regulators, ignition control modules, starter relays and even recently a couple of the previously stone reliable replacement distributor trigger kits (stator and armature). It's just depressing the size of the hole we've dug ourselves into with our fixation on the lowest possible price or no sale.
At least that's one of my pet theories. May only be part of the overall equation, but it seems quite logical to me.
Anyway, good luck with the junkyard hunt. Used to be plentiful around here, but not so much just in the last two or three years. Literally that recently we've gone from maybe 20 '73-'79 Fords in the yards, to only 1 or 2. Sometimes (like the last time I was at our local Pick-N-Pull) there are none.
Luckily they've got a pretty good online listing of what's in stock at the moment. Doesn't tell you if it's been picked down to bones or not, but at least lets you know what vehicle is on the property.
Paul
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Don't forget about that auction site. Lots of obscure parts are put up for bid constantly. NOS ignition parts are the way to go. Even the NORS parts were usually made to a higher level of quality.
You're right. The one general theme I have noticed in manufacturing through the years, maybe America didn't have the sleekest slimmest designs but they usually represented a very good value for the money. And they would last, for ex. a clothes dryer that would last 50 years and give good service. The only way that's possible is when the motor, relays, bearings etc., and other components are made of substantial materials and not just the bare minimum to get the job done.
You're right. The one general theme I have noticed in manufacturing through the years, maybe America didn't have the sleekest slimmest designs but they usually represented a very good value for the money. And they would last, for ex. a clothes dryer that would last 50 years and give good service. The only way that's possible is when the motor, relays, bearings etc., and other components are made of substantial materials and not just the bare minimum to get the job done.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Originally Posted by 1TonBasecamp
Did it blow out like you see it, or did it just pop it's top and the rest got pulled out during the rescue?
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