The module joined to the distributor cap has got 2 screws holding it in place. I can't get to the back screw, even though I've gone so far as pulling the thermostat cover to give me a little more room. Frankly, i'm terrified at the thought of tryng to pull my distributor outta the block because I've heard this can increase my situation to nightmare proportions. I just need a teeny bit of extra room to get at the inset screw that holds the back of the module in the distributor. Is there some kinda "trick" I don't know about or am I missing something that's right in front of me? Any help would be gratefully appreciated.
Mike and Sue

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 13-Aug-01 AT 06:47 PM (EST)[/font][p]I'm pretty sure you have to pull the distributor out. That's why they changed it to a remote mount in 89 or so. I've done it before and it's not that bad.

Turn the motor to TDC and just make sure you mark the position of your rotor components and button before you remove the distributor.

 

I agree,, pull the dristrubuter ,, just make sure to mark the location of the rotor ,, and bring the truck to tdc before you do anyting,,,

 

I outta cop to the fact that I really am not sure what "tdc" means. I not much of a mechanic and would appreciate all the help I can get. If one of you fellas would be kind enough to, sorta, walk me thru this thing, step by step, I'd be grateful.
I have tried to get the distributor to pull outta the block and it won't budge. I see the bolt/clamp thingy at the bottom of the shaft as it enters the block and have loosened it and tried tugging on the distribtor, but it feels frozen in place. I only have to get an extra inch of clearance to get to the module's nut that holds it in place. Can anyone be more specific for a broke amateur...which I admit to be being.
Mike

 

Can you turn the distributor? If not, spray some penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench on it and let it soak 'till you can work it loose. If it turns, then look at your crank pulley and find the groove mark on it and turn that until the mark is at the '0' or 'TDC' (top dead center). Then remove the cap from the dist, and look at where the rotor is pointing. Mark this on the block with chalk or something. Remove the distributor hold-down bolt and clamp piece. Pull the dist straight up and out of the engine and watch where the rotor turns to point. Mark this place also. Change the module and any other parts as needed, and when you are going to reinstall the dist, line up the rotor to the second mark you made, then set it into the engine block. Check to see if it lines up with the first mark. If it doesn't quite drop in, don't worry. The oil pump drive shaft fits into the bottom and may not be quite in line yet. Just turn the crank clockwise a little until the dist drops in place. Install the clamp and bolt, reinstall the cap and any other wires/tubes that you disconnected or bumped loose, and try to start the engine. It may not fire right away, depending on how close you 'eyeballed' the marks. Turn the dist a little at a time until the engine fires. Remove the SPOUT connector and set base timing with a timing light. Tighten the dist hold-down bolt and enjoy your truck again!

88 F-150 4X4 XLT Lariat w/5.0 EFI 5 spd (DAILY DRIVER)
86 Ranger 2WD w/2.3L EFI 5 spd to be 351W 4bbl C4 (NEW TOY- DETAILS WHEN FINISHED)
85 Old Cutlass Supreme 350/TH350 Holley 4160,Edelbrock Performer intake, el-cheapo headers, General Kinetics 270H series cam, 15.588 best 1/4 mile with original 10 bolt 2.41 gears (OLD TOY)

 

Just before I turned loose with a half can of WD40, I picked up a copy of todays newspaper from Burlington Vermont and couldn't help but notice that Ford Motor Company was attempting to settle out of court on some lawsuit having to do with the ignition module that's played havoc with us. Apparently, I'm not the only guy that's watched their truck come to a sudden stop and loose spark...which doesn't make me feel any better.
Anyway, I sprayed the distributor down with WD40 and the thing will still not budge. I figure to let it sit all night and try again in the morning. I did, however, find tdc (0) on the dial and have smeared some typewriter correcto white out on the spot that the rotor aappears to be pointing. I wonder what next and am afraid to begin hammering' on the thing to get it to break loose. Is there a speacial trick/gimmick that might augment this process that I'm missin' or do I keep on with the penetrate. The distributor, btw, refuses to turn in either direction and will definately not pull up & out.
Thanks
Mike

 

Try PB Blaster. Its is available from NAPA. It is way better than WD40 or Liquid Wrench. I highly recommend it and use it all the time for rusted bolts.

The dist will eventually turn. If it doesn't then you will never be able to adjust the timing.

Good luck.

Randy

 

I usually mark the body of the distributor to some reference point on the engine as well as the rotor to the dist body. I guess it may be good practice or something, but you really don't have to find tdc to take the dist out. As long as you carefully mark everything like the other posters said, and never move the engine while the dist is out, you can put it back in with no trouble. I wish you luck on getting it out. They really can be tough sometimes.

 

On my '90, I was able to loosen the dist. hold down clamp (if you didn't loosen that, it would explain the difficult turning) and just turn the distributor counter clockwise enough for the lil nutdriver to reach the screw. be warned, that by using this method, you will have to reset the timing, either by matchmarking the distributor to the block, or having easy access to a timing light.

good luck!
Chuck

 

Hey Mike, Just wondering, do you have the special socket used for removing the module from the distributor? Rotating the distributor will make it easier but if you do not have the socket, pulling the module can be even tougher. Good luck.

Yep, I saw the news yesterday on module problems. I have been through many of those suckers, (both types),
but have never had a dangerous situation arise.


Jakegypsum // Ford fleet, soup to nuts.

 

Hey, would someone start a new thread and keep us updated on the outcome/goings-on of this lawsuit? I've replaced a few, and am curious as to how this will turn out. Thanks!

88 F-150 4X4 XLT Lariat w/5.0 EFI 5 spd (DAILY DRIVER)
86 Ranger 2WD w/2.3L EFI 5 spd to be 351W 4bbl C4 (NEW TOY- DETAILS WHEN FINISHED)
85 Old Cutlass Supreme 350/TH350 Holley 4160,Edelbrock Performer intake, el-cheapo headers, General Kinetics 270H series cam, 15.588 best 1/4 mile with original 10 bolt 2.41 gears (OLD TOY)

 

I was able to work it out and get the ignition module in place...yet, it didn't change a thing. Let me say thanks for all the help because accomplishing this task was an amazing feat to begn with. The next thing I did was hunt around a little bit and determine the carbuator wasn't gettin' gas, I poured some directly into the things and did get the engine to fire for the time that it was primed with fuel. So, I then changed out the fuel relay switch and have been able to feel it "click" in my hand when I get the ignition turned to "on" and it seems like it's cycling up when it's turned to start position. I did check this out with a farmer whose got a dual tank truck and it seems to be doi' the same "noises." Anyway, I then followed a suggestion from a local guy who suggested I replace the primary fuel that's attached to the frame. I did, and no luck...especially when ya take into account that "after" I replaced it, I hooked a couple wired to the old one and hot wired it to the batter and watched it squirt fuel all over my foot. Thus, I can only figure that the problems in a fuse somewhere that I'm not seeing (I've checked the ones under the dash and they all appear OK OR the relay switch I replaced was bad too. Any ideas, guys?
The Ford Motor ignition modult thing is supposed to go to trial in a couple of months. Wrongful deaths and wheelchairs abound. Apparently Ford coulda repositioned the module for under $4 apiece. but opted out because they've been clippin' about #150 for 20 years doing the built in obsolescence thing. It's due to go to court in the next couple of months based on what I read in the newspaper.
Thanks for any help ya can give me on this thing.
Mike and Sue

 

Is there any spark? If so, feel the injectors to see if you can feel a small 'tic' from them. If neither of the above are present, try a pickup inside the distributor. Unfortunately, you have to pull the dist to change it.


88 F-150 4X4 XLT Lariat w/5.0 EFI 5 spd (DAILY DRIVER)
86 Ranger 2WD w/2.3L EFI 5 spd to be 351W 4bbl C4 (NEW TOY- DETAILS WHEN FINISHED)
85 Old Cutlass Supreme 350/TH350 Holley 4160,Edelbrock Performer intake, el-cheapo headers, General Kinetics 270H series cam, 15.588 best 1/4 mile with original 10 bolt 2.41 gears (OLD TOY)

 

Yes, there's spark coming from the coil and the spark plugs...just no gas to the carburator.
Mike