70 f250 rear axle and brakes
#1
70 f250 rear axle and brakes
I finally got around to doing my rear brakes and axle. I started getting some noise coming from the rear a couple of weeks ago. What it ended up being I am fairly sure was a broken spring on the passenger side. I had never pulled the axles before but had done other types of drum brakes, so I drafted my dad for the project. Everything came apart with no problems. I ended up putting in all new hardware, wheel cylinders, shoes, oil seals, axle gaskets, and the rear differential gasket. I had a new rubber rear brake line that I was waiting to put on when I got around to the brakes, so thats done. Put in new gear oil and bled the brakes. Good to go. Glad that is checked off the list.
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I ended up pulling the driver side rear axle and brake apart today. What a mess. 3 cans of brake kleen and a brush to get everything cleaned up. The inner seal didnt look perfect so I pulled it out and replaced it. Got it all back together and drove it around for a while then parked it. No leaks yet. Keep my fingers crossed. I have other things to do besides re-doing old projects.
#10
I learned a lot with my 70 Dodge Dana 60 rear axle assembly on the ins and outs of them.....My only disappointment at that time with the 70 Ford Dana 60 was the spindle nut was larger (2.50 vs the Dodge 2.375) so I had to buy another tool to add to the arsenal.
Had a cable brake adjuster slip off the cable groove support bracket which left a groove on the drum surface when it made a noise on the 70 F250 after a week of replacing all new components, so I had to remove the axle and drum to find out what the cause was.....
I also noticed shining a light thru the axle housing assembly that the passenger side seemed dry (not much oil) compared to the driver side with adequate oil, as I consulted a friend about what my potential problem may be.....as he suggested to add an extra quart of gear oil thru the passenger side of the axle housing after making sure the diff is full at the fill plug level which is what he does after a replenish of fresh gear oil.....then drive it a short distance and park it, then remove the drain plug and I will bet only a half quart of excessive oil will run out if it while it sits for a day....that way you will be reassured that all the axle housing and drum galleries will have primed adequate oil along all of the galleries and oil circulation wont be an issue.
He was right - by just replenishing fresh gear oil to the diff itself like I first done, apparently it takes a while to circulate oil thru the passenger side assembly - at least on mine it did.
After I mentioned about that brake adjusting cable coming off the groove support, my friend also suggested coating anti seize to the E brake bracket pin and assembly and also coating anti seize to the brake adjuster threads.
As an added precaution I light coat red grease on the brake adjuster cable and the shoe mounting pins, and add a big glob of grease on the outside of the shoe mounting pin flange at the backing plate to slow down potential corrosion due to extreme arctic weather conditions and rainy days in the summer.
Upon routine maintenance intervals on four of my 5 trucks I own that have Dana 60 assemblies, brake hardware still look great and move freely like new.
Had a cable brake adjuster slip off the cable groove support bracket which left a groove on the drum surface when it made a noise on the 70 F250 after a week of replacing all new components, so I had to remove the axle and drum to find out what the cause was.....
I also noticed shining a light thru the axle housing assembly that the passenger side seemed dry (not much oil) compared to the driver side with adequate oil, as I consulted a friend about what my potential problem may be.....as he suggested to add an extra quart of gear oil thru the passenger side of the axle housing after making sure the diff is full at the fill plug level which is what he does after a replenish of fresh gear oil.....then drive it a short distance and park it, then remove the drain plug and I will bet only a half quart of excessive oil will run out if it while it sits for a day....that way you will be reassured that all the axle housing and drum galleries will have primed adequate oil along all of the galleries and oil circulation wont be an issue.
He was right - by just replenishing fresh gear oil to the diff itself like I first done, apparently it takes a while to circulate oil thru the passenger side assembly - at least on mine it did.
After I mentioned about that brake adjusting cable coming off the groove support, my friend also suggested coating anti seize to the E brake bracket pin and assembly and also coating anti seize to the brake adjuster threads.
As an added precaution I light coat red grease on the brake adjuster cable and the shoe mounting pins, and add a big glob of grease on the outside of the shoe mounting pin flange at the backing plate to slow down potential corrosion due to extreme arctic weather conditions and rainy days in the summer.
Upon routine maintenance intervals on four of my 5 trucks I own that have Dana 60 assemblies, brake hardware still look great and move freely like new.
#11
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