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Sounds like your cap is marked for the 302HO and 351W firing order which is 1-3-4-8-6-5-7-2, standard 302`s have a 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 firing order. My '82 truck is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8, but after I do my 94-96 302 long block install the roller cam in it uses the HO firing order thus 1-3-4-8-6-5-7-2.
302 HO should have fuel injection right? Just want to make sure my engine isn't a HO. I guess it can run on that firing order though. Should I consider a new distributor? Would like to be able to adjust the timing!
302 HO should have fuel injection right? Just want to make sure my engine isn't a HO. I guess it can run on that firing order though. Should I consider a new distributor? Would like to be able to adjust the timing!
well the question is what firing order are you running now?
the 302ho is nothing more than a 351w firing order cam. Lots of aftermarket cams for 302 using the ho firing order. But i dont think there was a carbed factory 302ho though.
Spark plugs gapped (were pre-gapped but a couple were off .005"), antiseized and installed.
The existing plug wires for cylinders 1 and 2 came apart before I even started to pull them off the plugs. Probably the source of most of the problem.
Would agree on that....
Originally Posted by racer187x
Started up immediately and running much smoother. Pulled the distributor cap and the reluctor does not look anything like what is pictured in the diagram posted above. Started to feel around the distributor for the connector so I could test the resistance on the purple and orange wires (thanks Filthy Beast). Could not find any wiring coming off of the distributor. No vacuum advance, no electrical. Found a sticker that says "Refer to service manual. Timing not adjustable" on the exterior of the distributor housing. The rest of the sticker had been rubbed off.
I can get better photos in the morning. Just for kicks I took it around the block and drove it about 20 minutes. Best its ever run in the short time I've owned it, no throttle hesitation, no shudder. Seems to have much better throttle response. It didn't randomly die on me and I stopped, shut if off several times in parking lots to see how the restart was. Fired up immediately every time. Before it was crank it for several seconds to a minute before it fired up.
So...drive as is or try to figure out the distributor situation? I still have no tach. If there isn't any connectors coming off of the distributor how am I getting tach intermittently? It really is random when it begins to work and only works for a few minutes before the needle goes back to 0.
I think you found the cause of one problem - the plug wires. Drive it around like it is....try and find the correct firing order and write it down for future reference.
No Tach.....On the coil...the TACH TEST connection is where the tach usually connects. Clean / stabilize the connections on the "horseshoe" connection as they have been known to work loose
Don't (or try not to ) play with any other troubleshooting steps or ideas until you have the firing order squared away - That'll be one less problem to think about.....AND.....has the initial problem symptoms gone away with the plug wire fix?
well the question is what firing order are you running now?
the 302ho is nothing more than a 351w firing order cam. Lots of aftermarket cams for 302 using the ho firing order. But i dont think there was a carbed factory 302ho though.
I replaced the plug wires exactly as they were previously (which matched the cap) in this order: 1-3-4-8-6-5-7-2
It runs much better than before. I’m driving it to work today so we’ll see if it has fixed the engine cutting off issue.
No Tach.....On the coil...the TACH TEST connection is where the tach usually connects. Clean / stabilize the connections on the "horseshoe" connection as they have been known to work loose
Nothing is going to the TACH TEST plug (and there wasn’t anything plugged in there before I swapped the coil out either). I haven’t found the other end that plugs into TACH TEST floating around the engine bay. I’ll have to keep looking.
When I replaced the coil I cleaned up the connections in the horseshoe and added diaelectric grease.
Thanks for the assistance as i as I chase these things down!
I replaced the plug wires exactly as they were previously (which matched the cap) in this order: 1-3-4-8-6-5-7-2
It runs much better than before. I’m driving it to work today so we’ll see if it has fixed the engine cutting off issue.
well that is a ho firing order. If that order is not correct the engine will be missfiring.
you can try using the 302 firing order and see how it runs might be previous owner or who ever put the cap on used the ho/351 firing order on the cap and its not correct for yours if it has the standard 302 firing order.
Could be a late model roller cam engine out of a mustang that came with that cam originally. Or like you said, the cam was swapped in, either aftermarket or a HO Ford cam.
Could be a late model roller cam engine out of a mustang that came with that cam originally. Or like you said, the cam was swapped in, either aftermarket or a HO Ford cam.
Don't forget a 351W Cam the 302 HO and 351W share the same firing order. The Firing order was changed on the 351W to revise main bearing loading the same was also done with the HO 302's. The OP needs to make sure it is in fact a 302 and not 351W ( not that that has ever happened ) the 335 Series engines (351C 351M 400) also have the same firing order as the 351W 302 HO.
Why don't you take a look and see if you have idle adjustment screws on the front of the carb underneath the bowl that can be adjusted? That might make it run better. If you do not have any, that is clue the carb has never been rebuilt.
It did cut off and die in traffic today. Restarted instantly but now thinking plugs and plug wires didn’t cure it.
Plugs & plug wires will never make the motor just cut out.
Spark like water finds the path of least resistance, spark to ground.
Well maybe if the coil wire was bad and shorted to ground but you would get miss fires and a ruff running motor if it was any of the other wires or plugs.
Also if damp out may not start as spark goes to ground, leaks out of the wires, and not to the plugs.
I have also had a car that had high resistance wires that the spark looking for ground would burn thru the coil tower to the neg side of the coil wire. Went thru 3 coils before I found out why, changed wires and all was good.
Dave ----
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