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Is it a bad pressure switch?

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Old Jun 2, 2018 | 01:59 PM
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Is it a bad pressure switch?

94' F150, 302, auto, 132K.

AC compressor clutch does not engage when AC is switched on from inside truck.

I pulled electric supply wire plug off of the AC pressure switch & short circuited the plug with a piece of wire. Compressor clutch engaged & spun.

I do not have an AC pressure gauge.

So it seems either the system pressure is too low to activate the pressure switch or I have a bad pressure switch.

How can I test the pressure switch in order to isolate my problem?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2018 | 08:10 PM
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Get a pressure gauge and check the system pressure. No one is going to be able to tell you what the problem is without that data, so you might as well do it.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2018 | 08:19 PM
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Even a cheap charging kit will have a gauge with it that will give static pressure and tell you if there is a charge in the system. You can look up static pressures by temperature online and see what the low side should be for the temperature outside.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2018 | 11:32 AM
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If you want to check it on the cheap, get one of those recharge can that has the gauge on it. Then you can test the pressure and add if needed at the same time without having to dish out $100+ for a halfway decent set of gauges.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2018 | 02:25 PM
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OK. I bought a can of R-134 Freon with a gauge. Started the truck & let it warm up. Turned the AC & fan to max. Attached the R134 & got a reading of only 15 PSI. Added R134 until I got a reading of about 40 PSI. The compressor began to cycle on/off. About 1 second on & 3.5 seconds off. Added enough Freon to get to about 45 PSI & removed the can. The compressor continued to cycle on/off.

But..............................

Still no cooling. AC blows as warm as pre Freon charge.

But I now know the pressure switch is OK. Do I have a bad compressor? What else could it be?
 
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Old Jun 7, 2018 | 04:07 PM
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You probably need more refrigerant. If you only had 15 psi to start with, it was essentially empty. There should be a sticker under the hood that gives the total charge. You can guess at it and hope you get lucky or you can fix the leak and then charge it accurately by weight.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2018 | 08:31 PM
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If the compressor is off more than on, it's still under charged. Add another can, or at least half of one.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2018 | 08:11 AM
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I added more r134. no change in symptoms.
Per the gauge on the can, it reads about 25-30psi when the compressor cycles on & about 45psi when the compressor cycles off.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2018 | 12:47 PM
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Is your blend door working? It sounds as if it's stuck on warm.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2018 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by nomadw8
I added more r134. no change in symptoms.
Per the gauge on the can, it reads about 25-30psi when the compressor cycles on & about 45psi when the compres
sor cycles off.
What do you mean, "no change"? The thing's cycling now, before it wouldn't engage the clutch per your report. How much refrigerant did you add?

The pressures appear normal on the surface but lack context. Those are the typical -pressures for when the low pressure switch cycles but, we don't know either the ambient, the load or the cycling rate.

Did you check the temperature of the evaporator inlet and outlet tubes while the system was cycling?
 
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Old Jun 10, 2018 | 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by nomadw8
I added more r134. no change in symptoms.
Per the gauge on the can, it reads about 25-30psi when the compressor cycles on & about 45psi when the compressor cycles off.
Still needs more refrigerant. A front only system takes almost 3 cans, more if you also have rear air.
 
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