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Old May 29, 2018 | 09:48 AM
  #16  
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Update:

I topped off the refrigerant (added a little bit at a time, until it was blowing cold). In town, it blows very cold. Head out on the highway, and the compressor switches off, and won't come back on. Sitting in the parking lot, I can hang meat in here.

This really has me scratching my head. Could it be a bad relay that's shutting off the compressor at highway speeds?
 
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Old May 29, 2018 | 10:50 AM
  #17  
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You need to get a pair of pressure gauges to read high and low pressure sides. The gauges on the cans are crap. If you filled it till it blew cold you’re probably overcharged and that’s as bad or worse than low charge as it can damage components like the compressor shaft seal. If it’s overcharged it won’t cool as you have to have the pressure differences while it’s operating or no heat transfer.

There is also a temperature bias you have to account for or you could be over or undercharged still.
 
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Old May 29, 2018 | 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Sam.Costanza
Update:
I have a 2004 F250 4x4 crew cab, with a 6.0L PSD. The air conditioning has started cutting in and out, and not cooling as well as it should. I checked the refrigerant level, and it appears to be in the middle of the charged zone. I'm wondering if I have a relay that's failing, or something else going on.

This really has me scratching my head. Could it be a bad relay that's shutting off the compressor at highway speeds?
window.onbeforeunload = function() {}window.onbeforeunload = function() {}

Same symptoms of the air gap on the clutch plate being too large. Again, look into that.

It's not engine/model specific. Mine's a v10 and the plate had worn enough to increase the gap. Reshimming fixed it and I have cold air at all speeds now.
 
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Old May 29, 2018 | 12:08 PM
  #19  
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I'll have to find time and $$$ to get to a shop.

Still, this doesn't explain why it won't cool at highway speeds, but will freeze me out in stop and go traffic. Sitting and idling will also freeze me out.

I had a similar situation on our Honda Odyssey, and it turned out to be a bad relay, which is why I asked about that earlier. I'll have to take a day off and take it to my friend's shop. He doesn't work on diesel, but A/C should be something they can handle.
 
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Old May 29, 2018 | 12:14 PM
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Thanks, Cokeman. I'll have to tear into the shim issue this weekend, and find a set of R134 gauges.
 
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Old May 29, 2018 | 12:22 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Sam.Costanza
Update:

I topped off the refrigerant (added a little bit at a time, until it was blowing cold). In town, it blows very cold. Head out on the highway, and the compressor switches off, and won't come back on. Sitting in the parking lot, I can hang meat in here.

This really has me scratching my head. Could it be a bad relay that's shutting off the compressor at highway speeds?

Have you measured the AC compressor clutch air gap (about .020" I think is where it should be)?
 
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Old May 29, 2018 | 01:40 PM
  #22  
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I won't be able to do that until the weekend. I never knew this was something that could be an issue. I bet I've replaced a compressor in the past that this would have cured.
 
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Old May 29, 2018 | 10:28 PM
  #23  
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How do you know the compressor isn't engaging on the highway?? FWIW, if you over gassed it then it will go out on the high head pressure switch and the clutch won't engage.
 
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Old May 30, 2018 | 10:27 PM
  #24  
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How do I know it's cutting out at highway speeds? Above 50mph the AC stops blowing cold. Below 50, it will freeze me out.

When I charged it, I added a little bit at a time, until I felt it get cooler. Prior to charging, it never got truly cold in the cab, at any speed. Now, at low speeds, it gets cold. Once I hit 50, not so much.

As I said, I'll have to find time and money to get her to the shop, or at least a set of gauges to check the pressures.
 
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Old May 30, 2018 | 10:30 PM
  #25  
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Also, before I added 134, it stopped blowing cool above 50mph. That was my first clue there was a problem.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2018 | 02:14 PM
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I have same issue

So the 7.3 airgap is easy to set as the compressor is on top of motor. The 6.0 compressor is burried deep down. Have any of you felow 6.0 guys had any luck removing shims from the compressor clutch end cap and how did you do it without removing fan shrouds?
 
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Old Sep 10, 2018 | 02:25 PM
  #27  
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I have same AC issue on my 6.0

Originally Posted by Sam.Costanza
Thanks, Cokeman. I'll have to tear into the shim issue this weekend, and find a set of R134 gauges.
I have been trying to remove a shim to reduce the gap but cannot get the compressor to lock up so i can back out the clutch end cap. Where you able to remove shims and if so how did you do it?
​​​​​​
 
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Old Sep 11, 2018 | 11:16 AM
  #28  
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You have to use a bar or screwdriver to hold the plate while you remove the bolt. Just find a spot to jam it that won't break anything, it's not torqued very tight.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2018 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by LOOnatic
I have been trying to remove a shim to reduce the gap but cannot get the compressor to lock up so i can back out the clutch end cap. Where you able to remove shims and if so how did you do it?
​​​​​​
Mine was easy to unscrew & re-tighten in 7.3L, but I am not familiar with 6.0

Is there any way to get this type of wrench on it?

 
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