2007 Fx4 5.4. single zone auto climate control module. First, A/C has never worked particularly well in this truck, but well enough. Compressor had been changed once before at a shop, but it turns out that the electrical connector to the clutch was the real culprit. So, had a cheap aftermarket compressor on there. Recently, I noticed that it wasn't cooling well, even at speed, and would blow a little colder if I switched to panel and floor rather than just panel. I had begun to suspect the blend door actuator or similar. Did the self diagnostic and it indeed gave a temp blend door actuator failure code (2266). About the same time, the clutch and pulley assembly on the compressor went bad and the compressor shaft sheared. This just happened all of a sudden one day. After removal I could still turn the compressor and there was not too much trash etc in lines so not sure what the exact cause was. Anyway, sorry about the long story but wanted to give background. So, in response to this:

I replaced every a/c component except the evaporator (red orifice tube), flushed the evaporator with the can of flush solvent from the parts places (nothing really dirty came out, fyi), blew it out, and then let the evap sit open for a day to let residual solvent evaporate, assembled everything (dryer last) and evacuated for a good 4 or 5 hours total over the course of a couple evenings. Vacuum held, etc etc, so I recharged system with 134a, weighing it in as best I could. Got to 48 or 50 psi low and 300 high and stopped. pressures for ambient were listed as 50-55 and 275-300. It might be a couple oz short of listed weight but isn't way out of range. Mechanically, evrything seems to be working fine, compressor runs as should, can hear equalization through the orifice when i turn off truck, etc etc.

Now the actuator... so after all that, obviously wasnt getting super cool air out of vents because of bad actuator so ordered the part at a parts store and when they got it it did not have a box. Said I could return if it was not right. I noticed the spline alignment with respect to the arrow was not the same as the old one or pictures I saw online. The flat in the shaft was opposite the arrow. Looks like someone had energized it and returned it. So, since I knew i could return it, I plugged it in and adjusted temp to where the splines matched old one and installed (Not supposed to do technically but since i had it all apart and could easily still remove it...) Installed it, did a re-calibration a couple times on the auto module and watched it. It IS moving the blend door as i go through different temp scenarios, but with temp set to 60 and on max with panel selected (auto control overridden, allegedly) I get close to 80 degrees from vents at idle and about 60 or 62 when driving at 30 mph or so (temp at idle will drop some If i spray condenser with water). It was about 100 degrees ambient during this testing.

So, I am now at a bit of a loss for what to do next! I am going to return the actuator and reinstall another "virgin" one, but I am not confident that will change anything, as the current one seems to be functioning. I have redone the ac in a number of older vehicles with manual vacuum controls and have never had issues like this. It is not that complicated right? rebuild system, evac, fill it up! So, just looking for any advice on what to consider if the new actuator doesnt improve anything. Or, would it have being energized prior to installation really make it that off? If it doesnt help all i can think of would be to reclaim and recharge. I dont want to just add 134a as I think it is very close to spec. Would something internal to the plenum be the cause?

Just looking for any advice

Brandon

 

I have to ask...you didn't mention it but you did put oil in the compressor or did you shoot a can charge of oil into the system after the vacuum?
second, you mentioned that you diagnosed the blend door actuator as problematic...did you also try to close off the heater hose to see if the ac got cooler inside? I checked mine awhile back using the OTC fuel line clamps. they work very nice and won't damage the lines.


one last component you could try...on the 2007 does it have an e-fan or engine driven fan clutch?
it could be that the clutch or e-fan could be getting weak.

 

db_tanker,

Thanks for the reply. To answer:

I put the full amount of required oil (8 oz) in the compressor prior to installation and then rotated it by hand about 20 times before I turned anything on to clear the oil from the chambers. These were the instructions that came with the compressor, which was a remanned ford compressor.

I have not tried to clamp the heater hoses but have read and considered where I could install a shut off valve on it. I will try that after I put in the new actuator.

It has a traditional fan and clutch. I have read where that can be an issue at idle but If I understand correctly, at speed it shouldn't be, right? Is there a way to test the clutch performance or is it just a suspect and replace thing?

 

should be able to pop the hood on a cold engine, spin it a little but not more than say 3 or so revolutions.
on an engine warmed up to operating temp it should be good and tight.

I can't really think of anything else except for one item.
those gauge readings seem a bit high IMO. when I recharged mine a few years ago mine seemed to be around 40-45 on the low and about 275-280 on the high. thats another reason why I brought up the fan clutch but again it may be a difference in our manifold set.

 

I don't know what to tell you since you obviously are far more capable than I on AC systems, but the '07 does not have good AC. When its really hot in the cab after sitting in the sun, it seems for some reason to take a long time before the compressor kicks in. Other times it starts right up. I have never had 'cold' air in my truck from day one (I bought it new) although you could say its 'adequate'. I had it checked out last year and the pressures were in the normal range but on the low side of it. Finally got a little pissed at it today and bought a little 3 oz 'cold shot' with oil and put it in. Seems better. I liked the older cars with F12 refrigerant - I could doctor it and get freezing air from the dash registers, 134 doesn't work that great but I think there's something goofy in the controls for the '07 (and probably other years) Ford truck AC.

 

Thanks for the tips, all. Fan clutch seems to be working properly. Everything else seems right. Installed the new out-of-box actuator. It was aligned a little differently than the other one. Tested everything and I am getting air in the mid 50's out of the vent when driving around at speed. Considering it is in the 90's and 100's here most of the day I guess that it is what it is. It seems to be cooling the truck fine after driving for 10 minutes or so. From above advice and other things Ive read I guess its just a poor system.

Thanks again!

 

50 degree air at 95 degree ambient is a 45 degree temperature drop across the evaporator, which is good. I guess mine is doing about the same and I suppose its typical for the model. Mine is a little better after putting in 1 oz of 134 and 1 oz of 'booster' whatever that is. I couldn't get it to take any of the oil that was in the can, even holding it upside down and running the engine at 1500. I think maybe the adapter hose I got is crummy, but at least the gas in the little can went in.

 

I have found some 134 that has a bit of oil in it. that way you can at least make sure you are keeping the system lubed up.

Mind you however don't use alot of it because saturation of oil in the system can be bad.

a 45 degree drop is a good amount. my truck is black and being here in Texas at the moment its fighting a massive battle lol