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I inherited a early 99 F250 XLT ...and I am changing the Passenger side Gasket / UVC Harness unit ...Just wondering if there are any special tricks / Tips on this procedure that I should be aware of in advance.... I will also check the GP's and Torque the Injectors while I am there ....as well as replacing the Intercooler boot clamps and other chit I see that is wrong ...I already replaced the GPR....any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated .....thanks
YMMV but l have to remove the MAP line to the spider to get the CAC tube off to get to the valve cover. After that the only way I can get my passenger's side valve cover off without loosening the A/C bracket is to remove the oil filler tube. If you do that your o-ring will be difficult to re-seat as it will be swollen from the years it's been there. I would recommend getting a new one if you do this as it's only a couple of bucks or so from dieselorings.com.
Also make sure you have a couple of extensions and universal joints for the valve cover bolts. Three of them are less than convenient.
Lastly, when you put the cover back on for the last time start ALL of the bolts before you tighten them down (I thread them in about 1/2 way). This give a little wiggle room for the valve cover so you can line up the holes to get the bolts going. If you tighten as you go there will be at least one hole that just won't quite line up and you'll have to loosen the others to get that bolt started.
Ok so I need to undo the Belt and take off the AC compressor without disturbing the lines ? I understand removing the MAP and the CAC pipe along with the Resevoir for the coolant ...PS: I have every tool you can dream about times 5
I haven't been under the passenger's side but I hear that it can be wiggled out from under a heater hose that will give you a fit (I figure you'll understand when you get there). The back bolt will be the tough one where you'll need a swivel joint on the socket.
Ok so I need to undo the Belt and take off the AC compressor without disturbing the lines ?
You can remove the serpentine belt and loosen the A/C bracket. No need to disconnect anything from the compressor (or the compressor from the bracket). The amount you can slide the bracket forward is enough to get the valve cover out and makes working with #1 injector easier.
If you have a dual alternator setup like I do you have to remove the lower alternator bracket to get to the A/C bracket. Too much work for me so I remove the oil filler tube to avoid dealing with both brackets (I have to get under the truck for the lower alternator bracket).
You may consider checking the torque on the rocker arms also. Since you'll be most of the way there anyway, you may consider doing the DS too.
I've attempted to attach a photo with the "factory" spec torque values. We'll see if it loads.... I have chosen to exceed the factory torque spec on the hold-down bolts by 10 in/lbs on all of our 7.3's....seems to quieten them down a good bit w/o causing any problems and may assist in prolonging the life of the injector o-rings and retaining cups.
Pass valve cover can be removed without removing the belt and moving the AC compressor.
Remove the oil filler tube.
Remove the nuts holding the MAP sensor bracket and disconnect the hose from the intake spider. Move it towards the fender and wire tie out of the way.
Disconnect the sensor on the AC line from the harness
Loosen the clamps at the intercooler and at the intake spider for the boots.
There is room to pull the boot off the spider and then back off the intercooler and with some creative turns the tube come right out.
Remove all the valve cover bolts and just move/rotate the dipstick forward.
The hardest bolts are near the HVAC box. 1/4" ratchet, 13mm short socket with a universal joint and 6" extension makes short work there.
Bolt at the back is 13mm deep socket and no extension.
For the stud holding the dipstick, I took an old 13mm wrench and ground it down thin enough to fit under the bracket to hold the stud while breaking the nut loose.
Raise and support the heater hose with some wire ties to the harness at the cowl panel.
Raise and support the heater hoses with wire ties to the AC lines at the compressor.
Lift valve cover, slide back toward the downpipe, and then lift front of the valve cover to clear the heater hoses.
Slides right out.
I also use the 10 lbs. ft spec...I bought the Tiny Torque wrench for that reason ( it only goes to 15 lbs. ft.)......something like this one ..... https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Husky-H4DTWA...WZabQJV......I think mine is Mac ...it was like $ 80 US on ebay .....when I re-checked the Injectors on the Van after 100 K..... 6 out of 8 were loose .. ( not much but still loose ) for parts I used the Best ... all International o-rings and UVC's and Ford Gaskets ....albeit the 2 plug design ... 1 of 4 connectors was cooked a bit...I believe due to the GPR....Thanks for the details in he responses .....
My lack of eloquence may have caused an issue. If this is in response to my post, I do not use 10 ft lbs. I would advise everyone to use an "inch" lb rated torque wrench for bolts that are rated for "inch" lbs....I can provide a link as to why if needed. I was attempting to state that I exceed factory torque, which is 120 in/lbs, by 10 additional inch/lbs, and torque the hold-down bolts to 130 in/lbs....sometimes a bit more....
Update...I got down the valve cover today.......I had to Cut the last CAC clamp with a saws-all WTF...I ordered New Clamps 6 months ago but I only got 4 ..I ordered the rest Today from Rockauto ...along with the new Boots Etc... and a Heater resistor......Serpentine Belt is still on but It is frayed on one side so I will change it ...wow ....I drained the Degas Bottle and left it attached ..But If I need to remove it I just have to drain the Rad a bit and disconnect it ......
well I got it back together today....bit of a struggle especially the Intercooler tube and the new clamps...so I got the Engine light again ....so I scanned it for codes and I got a PO470 and a PO1275....funny because before I even started I was getting the PO1277 code seems to run better ...so Tomorrow I will clean the Harness clip again and check for obvious issues ...I hope I don't have to take it apart again to change the Gasket once more...I hope it is the clip on the harness side ....any Ideas what would cause the PO470 ? I was not 100% warmed up when I tested it...tomorrow I will do a contribiution test and see what's up
