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This is our 3rd go-round with this problem. After a brake service, it's fine for a while, then we start to hear noise from the brakes. The driver side rotor gets heat discolored and eventually gets warped if we don't catch it in time, so I'm assuming that means the pads are dragging badly on that wheel. It's ONLY the front driver side. The rotors and calipers are all new this time around.
I'm thinking that means it's got to be in the master cylinder, or in the splitter that divides the line from the MC to the left and right brake. I don't know if that splitter is active or passive. OR possibly in the ABS module.
This vehicle was in a minor fender bender before we bought it, and the ABS light has always come on at random intervals. Several mechanics have failed to find the cause. It has not seemed to cause any problem. Could this be related?
Ditto, change the brake hoses, the inner liner has collapsed keeping the fluid from flowing back towards the reservoir when you release the brakes.
I’ve heard this theory for nearly 25 years but never seen it confirmed.
I hope the OP will try it out and report back.
No trolling intended baddad457. You are one of many people I’ve heard it from.
I have the wife on the way to pick up both front hoses. For about 20 bucks a side to replace a 22 year old hose, it's worth a shot. I will report back.
I’ve heard this theory for nearly 25 years but never seen it confirmed.
I hope the OP will try it out and report back.
No trolling intended baddad457. You are one of many people I’ve heard it from.
I've had it happen once on a 68 Merc. Rotor got so hot it burned the grease out and then the bearings went south.
I’ve heard this theory for nearly 25 years but never seen it confirmed.
I hope the OP will try it out and report back.
No trolling intended baddad457. You are one of many people I’ve heard it from.
This is a real issue. The interior of the hose breaks down and the brake fluid saturates the hose body. This causes the hose to swell and restricts flow through the line, eventually closing it off completely. The pressure from the master cylinder forces the fluid through the restriction to apply the brakes. But once you release the pedal and the majority of the application pressure is released there isn't enough residual pressure to fully release the pads. Its doesn't take much to hold the pads lightly against the rotor and cause quite a bit of heat.
Well, two front hoses replaced, and I think the dragging problem is resolved. A short run around the neighborhood and both rotors were about the same temp. Warm, but not hot. Not burning hot.
It still sounds horrible when braking, though. I think I'll need to get that rotor machined, or possibly replace it.
UPDATE: Still sounded horrible. A quick eyeball showed the inside of the rotor is trashed. Priced the parts, got a quote from the shop. For about $350 more than parts the shop got the business. New rotors, calipers, bearings, pads. Everything but the hoses.
My wife checked her records (we use Acar, love it) and found the hoses were replaced in 2013. That means those hoses were only 5 years old. Hmmmm. Should not be bad in 5 years, so I'm not sure what is going on here.
My wife checked her records (we use Acar, love it) and found the hoses were replaced in 2013. That means those hoses were only 5 years old. Hmmmm. Should not be bad in 5 years, so I'm not sure what is going on here.
Assuming they were replaced, if they used the cheap chinese hoses, I would not be surprised at all.
I would expect them to use the cheapest available parts. I'm actually looking for a new shop. This place has been going downhill. They can't diagnose anything. They treat us well, but I've just had too many go-backs with them.
Honest auto shops are hard to find. Honest AND capable are gold.
