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Broken Radius Arm

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Old May 19, 2018 | 01:12 PM
  #1  
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Broken Radius Arm

So, I wasn't being cautious while removing the driver's side radius arm off my 78 F250 2WD. I got the radius arm out of the socket, but the threaded end is now separated and it's still rusted stuck in the bolt. Should I try to get someone to fabricate the end and weld it? Or would I be better off trying to find a new arm somewhere?

Also, I can't for the life of me get the i-beam bolt lock nut loose. I don't want to make the same mistake and snap something - are there any tricks to this one other than heat, patience and liquid wrench? The nut is the one highlighted below. Thanks!

 
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Old May 19, 2018 | 01:39 PM
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D5TZ-3A360-A .. Radius Rod - R/L same / Obsolete

1975/79 F100/250 2WD / 1975/79 F250 2WD Regular & Crew Cab / 1975/79 F250 2WD Super Cab with 6,100/6,300/6,500/6,900/7,500 lbs.

Pic: Black diamond is the king pin.

 
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Old May 21, 2018 | 12:07 PM
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Thanks, ND. Working on a replacement arm, now.

I'm looking at a lot of rust on the front end of my 78 F250 2WD. Are the following easy to replace?

Lower shock bolt and nut
I-beam / radius arm bolt and nut

I can't get the retaining key out of my caliper - the punch is just chewing it up - and I'm replacing the caliper anyway, so where would be the best place to cut through the caliper for removal? Or should I just keep chewing up the key until it's either destroyed or removed?
 
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Old May 23, 2018 | 02:16 AM
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Wow, that is a lot of rust then. Seen tight keys, but never seen one that would not come out with a few decent smacks. Nothing hard enough to do damage.
You're sure you got the anchor bolt out? Maybe a broken off one still just slightly sticking out of the hole?
Unless your brake setup is different from the type I'm familiar with.

Don't have any tricks up my sleeve for you to try. Heat maybe? I've never had to resort to that, but hear it's a good all-purpose fix for stuck stuff.

Good luck.

Paul
 
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Old May 23, 2018 | 01:32 PM
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It was a great deal of rust!


I removed the bolt but it was still stuck. I just cut through the key and the tab that goes with it and it came out pretty easily. The bolt on the other side was so rusted that I had to drill it out and tap it. But both calipers are off now. As for the subject of this thread, I put a cheater bar on a closed end wrench and after multiple heat/liquid wrench treatments, knuckled down and used my leg strength to get it loose. New replacement arm should be coming in soon from Raleigh.

Thanks!
 
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Old May 23, 2018 | 09:18 PM
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You really need to get an impact wrench if you aren't using one now. You can use an electric one, they aren't very expensive and they work well. After liquid wrench for about 2 weeks soak, go in with an impact wrench, I'm pretty sure it will come apart no problem after that
 
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