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Radius arm post broke, threads hashed (Pics)

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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 07:13 PM
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Radius arm post broke, threads hashed (Pics)

So, I noticed that the radius arm bracket on the drivers side was cracked and the bushings looked like they could use replacing, so I took decided to take the opportunity to do both brackets and bushings. However, looking at the post at the end of the radius arm, I realized it had been shortened at some point, even with the bushings partially collapsed the nut barely covered the tip of the post. when I removed the nut, I found the threads to be in extremely sorry shape. attempting to reassemble just made the threads worse, and there simply is not enough bolt to get the nut on with a healthy set of bushings anyway.



SO I believe most would go ahead and just replace the whole radius arm, but for someone broke like me (and who has no interest in dealing with the heavily rusted 300 lb torqued bolts on the other end of the radius arm, I have decided to try to salvage the arm. Here are my plans:



I found that I could sandwich the whole bushing assembly (and bracket) and add a good amount of pressure with a pair of c-clamps. So, I figure if I weld the front washer against the radius arm to anchor it, compress the assembly, and then solidy weld the rear washer to the post, I should get about the same effect as the assembly being torqued down with the nut. Are there any issues I am not seeing here?
 
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 07:23 PM
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If you trust your welding skills so much that a washer is going to hold that together; why don't you just replace the bolt. A pool of weld is all that is holding it on.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 07:37 PM
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The radius arm is so rusty. I don't think I can cleanly cut out the bolt. I'm also a medium-novice welder. I assumed a weld out on the post with a clean washer surface would be a cleaner, easier weld. Also, I would also have the remaining threads to multiply the surface of the post... am I thinking right on this?
 
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 08:20 PM
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I'd be more concerned about the thickness of the washer. About 1/8" compared to the 1/2" you get with a nut. Top it off with it being brittle from the heat, and it breaks off around the weld.

If the radius arm is that rusty already; it's probably best to replace it anyways.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 08:59 PM
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Before you weld it, drill a hole in it for a small (1/4") grade 8 bolt. That way if the weld does break, the bolt will keep it from falling off.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 09:13 PM
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Before you weld it, drill a hole in it for a small (1/4") grade 8 bolt. That way if the weld does break, the bolt will keep it from falling off.
Thats a great idea! Will do on that!

I'd be more concerned about the thickness of the washer. About 1/8" compared to the 1/2" you get with a nut. Top it off with it being brittle from the heat, and it breaks off around the weld.

If the radius arm is that rusty already; it's probably best to replace it anyways.
Im going to double up the rear washer with one from my bushing kit. That should help distribute the pressure on the welded washer to keep it from bending or breaking.

I'll replace the radius arm if this doesn't work. I have't got the big bolts on the other end off yet. Whether I have to get at those and buy a new arm before I try something cheap or after doesn't really matter to me. though I hope not to have to at all. This was supposed to be a cheap old truck, but thanks to my OCD, I have already replaced the transmission, steering gear box, ball joints, cams, and much more... not to mention cutting all of the rust out of the body panels and replacing it with diamond plate. I am way deeper $$ in this truck than I meant to be.
 
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