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I put in LEDs all around the outside of the 79. Did the two electronic new flashers. (Headlights are still stock at the moment). 130a 3G alt.
Everything is working with the exception of the tail/brake lights. These dual stage sockets work fine with 2 standard bulbs. However, with LEDs only one seems to work.
In order to get both sides to work with just the standard driving lights on, the left side has to be standard bulb and the right can be LED. However, each time I hit the brakes, one brake light will come on, then let off, then press the brakes again and the OTHER brake will come on. As in, keep pumping the brakes and they alternate... like a cop. lol.
If I put an LED on the left side, it will work, but the right side LED will not work at all.
Any smart ideas? I have a few LEDs that fit these sockets as in they are not broken.
How are the rear lights grounded?
If you just installed the bulbs and the housing not screwed to the bed you have no ground.
If they are screwed I would make sure where they screw in is nice and clean.
The other thing is check where the prongs are on the side of the bulb sockets to the contacts on the bottom if they line up with the normal bulbs.
Dave ----
True. I can cut the +/- wires and switch them, no big deal if that's the issue on the left side.
I'll clean up grounds first. Then move on to switching wires. Give that a shot. Thanks.
Aaron-71,
Good point you brought up about the polarity, Although I recall the polarity concern when I changed out my instrument cluster bulbs over to LEDs, and I sure like the improved illumination. But I don't think I would of concerned myself to think of the polarity when I get ready to change the rest of the bulbs (less headlights) over to LED, so I'm glad to brought the point up. Know my passenger front turn signal socket is worn, the 1157 bulbs can go in both directions, correct way and work and rotated 180 and not work. I'll plan ahead of time to replace the socket before changing to LED.
Ok, cleaned and sanded down the grounds. They needed it for sure. Same issue, but I think I'm starting to figure out the issue..
If there is nothing plugged into the left, the right LED won't work.
If there is a standard bulb plugged into the left, the right LED WILL work.
If there is an LED plugged into the left, the right LED won't work.
To me.. it seems like these lights are daisy chained together and therfore the right side socket is on the end of the chain and if it doesn't receive enough power, it won't work.
So... If I try to run the + wire from the right side, bypassing the left socket, just run it to the main lead that hits the left first... then .. maybe. hmmm..
Does this sound proper?
As far as a polarity issue, I can touch them either way without securing them in tight. The proper polarity is good when they twist secure in.
The OE bulbs are something like 12v24w, and the LEDs are something like 12v0.4w, which have a much higher resistance.
As you stated, the LED would not be getting enough power.
I found that I had to calculate the loads on my lighting circuits and change the gauge wire accordingly, amongst other headaches, to get the LEDs perfect.
If you connect both LEDs with an OE bulb in line, both LEDs will work.
This would be a temporary measure of course.
You could try that, or the additional wire bypassing the left socket you suggested, or fitting an LED to the left and an OE bulb on the right.
These would be more for learning and observation purposes.
I'm not clever enough to write your solution in one sentence, but hopefully the waffle helps a bit.
When the lighting is finally done, reduce the fuse rating as the OE rated fuse will be way too high.
True man, makes sense.
Hope to get some time maybe this weekend and I'll try to run a wire and bypass. Also, I know someone had hitch wiring all down there, I'll clean up the wiring back there. Probably already wire I can use.
Thanks guys. I need to do my dash still and also headlights eventually. Just got a wiper relay from a 91 in the junkyard so kinda do dash stuff all at once.
Update.
Found the right side (that's not working), the socket was 'made in Taiwan' (way to go PO..).
Went to JY and got another Ford socket. Wired it up.
Got newer LEDs (better, brighter).
Even removed all the right side wires and ran new wires.
Even bypassed power direct to harness, bypassing left light (not needed though, since it actually doesn't run through the left side first, but still did).
Tested volts at socket, it's gettings it's 12v.
Switched polarity, back/forth.
Cleaned contacts very well.
Same issue. Makes no logical sense.
The ONLY thing that makes sense, is that it may not be getting the Amps back there, only the Volts. Due to me not running license plate lights. Possibly, need more of a pull back there.
So.. next thing, only thing to do is to put an actual bulb back there and see...
I didn't try with ALT running.. see if it get's it's 14.5. BUT... bleh.
Yeah, net pitman arm and AL rad coming in today so I'll get around to it. But that's what I'll do, run a little bulb (like a courtesy bulb), back there right next to that LED and if need, just tuck it's *** back behind that lens housing. I'll report back. lol
gfburke,
Your thread last month prompted me to swapped out OE incandescent for LEDs in my 77 F-150 for just the rear tail lamps and they work perfectly. But I have the two rear step bumper license plate lights, that I see your missing, so instead of tucking an extra socket behind the lenses and body, get one or two license plate sockets and bulbs in case it solves your dilemma with the added electrical draw.
On a different note, were you rolling on the creeper or using to lay on? From the picture it's a little difficult differentiating between exposed aggregate finished concrete or gravel, though both would be difficult for a creeper to roll on.
I thought about that, use a light for a purpose.. lol. I guess it would make sense. Yes. I do wonder about adding those 2 plate lights in, as LEDs though.. wonder if that would do it.
Was using the creeper for laying on, lol. It's gravel out there. Not good for roll'n! I bought that for the lady for working on her 73 bug, which is on concrete.
Did start off with the cheapest LEDs I could find on ebay. Then, started to replace the ones that I thought could be brighter. Instead of "$5 shipped for 2", went up to "$10-$15 shipped for 2" on a couple of them.
Those ones with the little LED squares all around the surface are pretty cheap and not bright. But for the dash, they are great. Also the reverse ones are too, looks awesome and bright white.
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