Replacing Clutch Pedal Bushings
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 904
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From: Pittsburgh
Replacing Clutch Pedal Bushings
There is some visible play in the clutch pedal bushings on my 1995 F150. The larger white bushings have some play in them and the small black bushing for the master cylinder rod was nearly non-existent. I don't know how much this has affected driveability. The truck shifts okay, but it's not super smooth either, so I'm sure this isn't helping. Does anyone have a part number for these bushings and how hard are they to swap out?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 991
Likes: 6
From: San Antonio, Texas
I did this not too long ago. Believe I posted the numbers in the "What did you do thread"... Bushing kit is F3TZ-2C342-A, and I ordered it off Amazon.
It's not hard to do, but does involve taking the pedal cluster out of the truck. While you've got it out, my suggestion for the master cylinder rod would be to do the heim joint fix. Google it and you can find various people selling it. It's well worth doing.
It's not hard to do, but does involve taking the pedal cluster out of the truck. While you've got it out, my suggestion for the master cylinder rod would be to do the heim joint fix. Google it and you can find various people selling it. It's well worth doing.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 904
Likes: 3
From: Pittsburgh
I did this not too long ago. Believe I posted the numbers in the "What did you do thread"... Bushing kit is F3TZ-2C342-A, and I ordered it off Amazon.
It's not hard to do, but does involve taking the pedal cluster out of the truck. While you've got it out, my suggestion for the master cylinder rod would be to do the heim joint fix. Google it and you can find various people selling it. It's well worth doing.
It's not hard to do, but does involve taking the pedal cluster out of the truck. While you've got it out, my suggestion for the master cylinder rod would be to do the heim joint fix. Google it and you can find various people selling it. It's well worth doing.
1. How hard is it to get the pedal box out?
2. How worn were your bushings and did it make a difference in the feel of the shifter/clutch? If so how much?
Like when I changed the shifter bushings (old ones disintegrated) the shifter feel was night and day difference.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 991
Likes: 6
From: San Antonio, Texas
It's not too hard, just drop part of the steering linkage and push it through the firewall (make sure you leave enough to grab it again), and just move a few things out of the way. I moved the accelerator out of the way to make it a little easier as well.
My bushings were so worn (one was broken) that my brake pedal would actually move side to side when I would depressed the clutch. I could feel it when I would clutch to get out of gear and brake. The clutch pedal also just felt so much harder to push with the worn bushings. Fresh bushings had it feeling much lighter in terms of required push force. There's a possibility that it may well have affected clutch engagement too, but I never noticed it.
The issues I have with grinding gears are due to a worn out box that I should have had rebuilt...
My bushings were so worn (one was broken) that my brake pedal would actually move side to side when I would depressed the clutch. I could feel it when I would clutch to get out of gear and brake. The clutch pedal also just felt so much harder to push with the worn bushings. Fresh bushings had it feeling much lighter in terms of required push force. There's a possibility that it may well have affected clutch engagement too, but I never noticed it.
The issues I have with grinding gears are due to a worn out box that I should have had rebuilt...
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 8
in my experience, by far the most important piece is the bushing between the pivot ball on the actuating arm and the master cylinder pushrod. if you have caught it in time then replacement is quick, cheap and easy. most often what happens is the two have been metal-to-metal for a while and the resulting slop causes the replacement bushing to break after 1 or 2 shifts. at that point, the heim joint repair becomes maybe the best option. you can inspect by simply forcing the 2 apart and check the condition of that pivot ball.
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2016
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From: Pittsburgh
Thanks for the replies. I'm going to order the clutch bushings abd maybe a heim joint a see how it goes. I can't say I'm a huge fan of the really tall gearing in this M5OD trans, but hopefully with the new shifter bushings and the new clutch pedal bushings it'll make it a bit more tolerable.
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2023
Posts: 461
Likes: 51
How have the new bushings and the heim joint worked out?
It looks like my clutch master cylinder rod (plastic end at top of clutch pedal) broke this weekend, so I have yet to find a new metal rod to order. But I'm also thinking at the same time, I should replace these pedal assembly bushings for my clutch and brake pedal while I am in this area under the dash.
It looks like my clutch master cylinder rod (plastic end at top of clutch pedal) broke this weekend, so I have yet to find a new metal rod to order. But I'm also thinking at the same time, I should replace these pedal assembly bushings for my clutch and brake pedal while I am in this area under the dash.
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