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? Replacing Clutch/Brake Pedal Bushings

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Old 03-15-2017, 09:51 AM
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? Replacing Clutch/Brake Pedal Bushings

Next thing on my to-do-list is to replace the bushing that squeaks every time I depress the clutch pedal.
I've got the Ford bushing kit as well as the lever that connects the shaft to the clutch push rod.

Here's the question: Replace with the pedal bracket in the truck or remove it?

The Ford Shop Manual reads that it is done while in the truck, but I've read where several people removed the bracket to do it. I wont have anyone around to give a hand which kinda complicates things.

Anyone offer some insight as to which route I should take?

1995 F150 4.9 5-speed
 
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Old 08-23-2017, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by NinetyFiveF150
Next thing on my to-do-list is to replace the bushing that squeaks every time I depress the clutch pedal.
I've got the Ford bushing kit as well as the lever that connects the shaft to the clutch push rod.

Here's the question: Replace with the pedal bracket in the truck or remove it?

The Ford Shop Manual reads that it is done while in the truck, but I've read where several people removed the bracket to do it. I wont have anyone around to give a hand which kinda complicates things.

Anyone offer some insight as to which route I should take?

1995 F150 4.9 5-speed
Anyone? Do I have to remove the pedal bracket from the truck to replace all the bushings or can I do it while still in the truck?
 
  #3  
Old 08-23-2017, 11:17 AM
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its been a few years since I had to do one, BUT, you can slide the shaft to the right (towards psngr side) and replace the plastic bushings and spacers and whatever while in the truck.

grease em, the spiral construction of the busing allows a good bit of thin grease to stay in there.

If your sig line is the target truck, you should have the hydraulic clutch and you want to possible look into (but doubtful needed) re-bushing the actuator rod for the master cylinder.

if this had the old linkage, I guarantee every single clutch linkage rod and bushing is bad
 
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Old 08-24-2017, 09:35 AM
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Thanks Quaddriver. I've been putting this off for too long anticipating it'll be a PITA. It's difficult to even see up in there!
 
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Old 09-16-2017, 02:06 PM
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Sorry for hijacking this chain. I need to replace the entire clutch bracket in my 1991 F250 so my problem is not replacing the bushing from inside the truck, rather replacing the entire bracket. I'm wondering if the steering column needs to be removed to do this? Can it just be lowered a bit? I worry about opening the firewall.

What got me to this chain was the bushings part. If the ones in the bracket I bought appear intact and working well, is it still wise to replace since everything is out? Best sources? Kind of grease?

Thanks all. Eric
 
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Old 09-17-2017, 09:56 AM
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Hi,
Saw this!

 
  #7  
Old 05-14-2020, 07:13 PM
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Clutch box assembly bushings

So have a question, I replaced the bushings on the clutch/brake pedal assembly This afternoon, but discovered why there was so much play. The bushing was toast, but also wore a grove in the metal “hex bushing” that sits just inside the box on the clutch swing arm side. Curious how easy it is to find that (what it would be called to look it up) and/or if anyone had a better update version idea?



 
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Old 05-14-2020, 08:08 PM
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I've just replaced my bushings a few weeks ago. That is the only bushing that wears out. If yours looks like this, you need to filler weld material back into that "nut passage" to bring it back to perfect circle. I welded and ground til close enough then tucked epoxy in until perfect. If that passage isn't perfect, don't expect your new $40 bushing kit to last when you can buy a whole new pedal assy. for $120ish.
 
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Old 05-14-2020, 08:20 PM
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Yeah that bushing was toast, which I would guess is why the nut piece was worn as bad as it was. That stinks that If need to Do that much to it instead of just being able to replace that little bit piece.
 
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Old 05-14-2020, 08:25 PM
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Its normally spot welded into place. Mine was broken free. It isn't a service part. Pulling the column and the big aluminum surround isn't the end of the world. You can fill it in with a welder. It you dont have a welder or access to one, you can tape off the right side and fill with some epoxy. Once it cures, profile it with a dremel and sanding wheel. Easy peasy. Or shell out the $120 and get a fresh new bolt in unit from ebay. Either way, still cheaper than farming out the job.
 
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Old 05-14-2020, 08:26 PM
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These trucks are showing their age at this point and sometimes you just gotta give them a little extra love.
 
  #12  
Old 05-14-2020, 11:34 PM
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Well it may have worked. I filled in the groove and grinder it down, not perfect and the most pretty, but put back together and all seemed snug and tight. Will put in truck in the morning and see how it goes.
 
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