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Old May 16, 2018 | 09:03 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Yellowbeard
Hey, I appreciate any info I can get so thanks. I would rather have the full steel bumper with integrated brush guard but I'm not sure I can find one used and my marriage won't support buying one new at this point.

Maybe I'll just build one. I need to brush up on the old welding skills.
There you go, drag out the welder. I built bumpers for two of the jeeps that I have had in the past. There are actually places online where you can get pre-bent tubing, and brackets, and other odds and ends that make building them pretty easy.
 
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Old May 16, 2018 | 09:28 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by DieselBeast01
There you go, drag out the welder. I built bumpers for two of the jeeps that I have had in the past. There are actually places online where you can get pre-bent tubing, and brackets, and other odds and ends that make building them pretty easy.
Wow! That's worth knowing. Thanks!
 
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Old May 17, 2018 | 10:38 AM
  #18  
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I’m doing a 2007 front end conversion on my truck, went with fab fours full bumper replacement
 
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Old May 17, 2018 | 12:38 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Jaime74656

I’m doing a 2007 front end conversion on my truck, went with fab fours full bumper replacement
Man. That is awesome. Wish I had that kind of budget.
 
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Old May 20, 2018 | 08:20 PM
  #20  
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I ended up getting this Top Gun for 300 bucks. Unfortunately, the bars that go underneath are about an inch too wide both directions and now my toe hooks won’t go back on. Best advice for modding those things to fit?
 
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Old May 20, 2018 | 09:15 PM
  #21  
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THe ranch hand bumper and guard is a sweet setup! Definitely gonna be adding one to my truck eventually.
 
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Old May 20, 2018 | 10:25 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Yellowbeard
Best advice for modding those things to fit?


Best advice is DON'T mess with the loops. If you really need a front point put a drawbar behind the mounts, at least that way you're dealing with known ratings. The way the tow loops are mounted are what's important, the shear strength of a 5/8" Grade 8 bolt is something like 30,000#, and the loop is just a steel wire well in excess of that. I've posted a picture before from the History Channel show Axemen where a company lifted a Super Duty out of a ditch using the front two tow eyes attached to clevis' and run up cables to a bar. In original form, the eyes will handle several times the vehicle weight in static situations.

Dynamic situations are what worry me. This kind of a bracket (linked below) exists, but I can't do an engineering calc (since I"m not an engineer) on what the torsional strength of 1/4" cold rolled sheet is so I don't know if I'd trust these parts it in terms of recovery use. I doubt the part would fail, but if it bends once it's done and needs to be replaced.
Tow Hook Eliminator Brackets - 11-15 Ford Super Duty - DirtyDiesels

Roughly speaking, being stuck to your hubs on a 15% incline can mean the line pull weight of my truck is over 250% of it's base weight, so around 20,000# easily for me. Body level stuck on flat ground with any kind of damage could be 24000#+ easily. Hitting the 30,000# strength of the fastener with a dynamic pull is not an academic exercise in any sense, I've been in places with stock trucks that definitely exceed common recovery gear ratings. If you're going to break the rules, at least know them first:
Pirate4x4.Com - Extreme Four Wheel Drive

If you don't plan on really using the eyes for anything heavy, get a bracket made at a local fab shop to your specs. Any decent shop will be able to cut the holes a piece of sheet and have a press brake that can handle the bend to get the mounting points where you need them.
 
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Old May 21, 2018 | 07:49 AM
  #23  
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BEen want to put one of these on my truck as well. Being that my body style was only from 08-10 they are not easy to find in the used market. I keep finding them for the newer truck but just don’t think it would look right.
 
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Old May 21, 2018 | 09:44 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by texastech_diesel
Best advice is DON'T mess with the loops. If you really need a front point put a drawbar behind the mounts, at least that way you're dealing with known ratings. The way the tow loops are mounted are what's important, the shear strength of a 5/8" Grade 8 bolt is something like 30,000#, and the loop is just a steel wire well in excess of that. I've posted a picture before from the History Channel show Axemen where a company lifted a Super Duty out of a ditch using the front two tow eyes attached to clevis' and run up cables to a bar. In original form, the eyes will handle several times the vehicle weight in static situations.

Dynamic situations are what worry me. This kind of a bracket (linked below) exists, but I can't do an engineering calc (since I"m not an engineer) on what the torsional strength of 1/4" cold rolled sheet is so I don't know if I'd trust these parts it in terms of recovery use. I doubt the part would fail, but if it bends once it's done and needs to be replaced.
Tow Hook Eliminator Brackets - 11-15 Ford Super Duty - DirtyDiesels

Roughly speaking, being stuck to your hubs on a 15% incline can mean the line pull weight of my truck is over 250% of it's base weight, so around 20,000# easily for me. Body level stuck on flat ground with any kind of damage could be 24000#+ easily. Hitting the 30,000# strength of the fastener with a dynamic pull is not an academic exercise in any sense, I've been in places with stock trucks that definitely exceed common recovery gear ratings. If you're going to break the rules, at least know them first:
Pirate4x4.Com - Extreme Four Wheel Drive

If you don't plan on really using the eyes for anything heavy, get a bracket made at a local fab shop to your specs. Any decent shop will be able to cut the holes a piece of sheet and have a press brake that can handle the bend to get the mounting points where you need them.

Wow! Thanks for all this advice. I was definitely leaning toward modding the brush guard before modding the tow hooks for exactly the reason you state. They almost fit. Just think I would need to alter the brush guard a tiny bit in order to get them to fit.

Thanks!
 
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