Im going to change my front rotors on my 1989 E150 later this week. My wheels are similar to this What type of grease should i use? Also does anyone have any advice on this type of job?

 

use a quality grease like mobil 1 synthetic or look at the manual and see what they spec out. A good graphite specd for wheel bearing is also appropriate. I would guess that the utube would be as good an instruction as any other. Just make sure to change the seals for the bearings, actually install new bearings since they will not come with the rotors/hubs. Depending on how the pads look on the old might even consider R&R the calipers since you are adding all new parts. Might even consider new hoses while at it. you are working on/with 30 year old stuff

 

how/ what would you suggest for R&R on the calipers?

 

some tips..

In the video he mentions checking the brake fluid. Do that before you try to compress the caliper pistons.

To free compress the calipers enough to get the caliper off, I use the first method in the video below. I try to not put the screwdriver on the caliper piston because it they are composite pistons, they can chip of crack. I try to get the screw driver on the lip of the bad..


Use a metal coat hanger or other wire and hang the caliper up so that it doesn’t fall and pull on the rubber line if you are going to be doing anything else around the rotor. Dont just let it sit there....

Use a wire brush or wire wheel in a drill and “CLEAN” the rust off of the caliper and spindle surface wehre the locking pins ride.

Use new locking pins...

Coat the locking pins, caliper, and spindle surface with a high temp brake grease prior to assembly.. You want that caliper to be able to easily move a little when the brakes are applied and releasing. If it is tight then the outside pad will rub against the rotor.. It will to a point anyway but if it is binding it will rub tighter and wear the outer pads...

Always replace thew cotter pins unless there is no other way...

When packing the bearings, I always just do it from the back side and continue till the grease is forced out the front side. That way I know it is all the way through the bearing. To each his own...
I like to clean the parts and sit them on a clean shop towel, you don’t want a piece of grit getting in the bearing...

Here is a video of how to properly adjust the wheel bearings. May get some flack for this as most people just do it by feel... I have always done it by feel but the last time I repacked the front wheel bearings when I checked them a few thousand miles later there was a little too much play in the wheel. He says to set the final torque to 18 to 20 inch lbs but the manual for my 88 E150 says 22 to 25 inch lbs and then back the nut off 1/8th a turn and install the cotter pin without moving the nut. When you install the castle nut retainer, if it does not line up with the hole in the spindle for the cotter pin, remove the castle nut retainer and rotate it one notch at a time till it does line up and then install the cotter pin.

 

you asked about replacement calipers, well where are you getting the rotors from? What pads are you going to use? You can get the calipers from any good parts store, off the internet just about any place. So you may as well want to research various outlets, I have purchased pads and rotors from these guys Brake Performance, 9424 Eton Ave. Suite I, Chatsworth, CA 91311
Phone: 1-818-772-5540 - Toll Free: 1-866-756-5536 for my F350 and I am impressed at the performance they give. I think they also sell calipers?

Anyhow as pointed out by another guy, bleed out all the old brake fluid or have it power flushed by a shop. Then you can also consider replacing the front hoses IF you are wanting to do a total job

 

I have seen some videos where they compress the caliper without bleeding the brake valve. I guess this pumps the fluid back into the master cylinder? How important is this? Are there any tricks and tips to the brake fluid valve? I've never done that before.

 

Don't know if you have anti lock brakes or not, my 88 does not. If your 89 does then there might be a different process.
If they are not anti lock brakes then,,,
I wouldn't worry about compressing the calipers enough to push the fluid back into the master cylinder. It may actually be a bad thing if the calipers are rusted inside. It will push the old brake fluid back into the lines and master cylinder.
Being this is a 89 and could have rusty old brake fluid in the system. A better way might be to use a turkey baster and try to remove all the old fluid out of the master cylinder and replace it with new fluid. Do this before replacing the front calipers. After replacing the fluid in the master fluid, but before removing the front calipers, bleed the front calipers. This will help remove the old fluid from the old calipers and what is in the lines. Allot depends on how well the brakes were maintained in the past. If it has been a long time since the fluid was flushed and the old calipers have some rust inside the cylinder and piston, compressing them all the way could actually loosen some crud force it back up in the lines. SO compress them just enough to get them off, no more.

If you are replacing the calipers then you might as well replace the rubber hoses that connect from the hard lines to the calipers. They too go bad from time to time.
Here is a video about replacing brake hoses. Don't use the pliers he has, invest in a line wrench and it will keep you from rounding off the fittings...

At 4:10 on tis video it shows you how to remove the brake hose retainer clips. This is not your van but will be the same. Yo only have one clip to remove. The bracket is mounted I believe on the frame. Loosen the line from the hose before you remove the clip.

 

Thanks for the info! I dont think i'll be replacing the calipers this time. Everything was working fine before, i just noticed a little wobble in high speed braking so i am replacing the rotors and brake pads.

I think i will also clean up grease etc from the wheel well and frame while in there. I dont have a solid maintenance history before hand, how could I check to see if the brake fluid is good? or if the brake lines need attention?

Matt

 

If the rotors are not worn too thin you can have then turned to true them up. Some local shops will do it around here for about $15.

To check the brake fluid. One way would be to bleed the brakes a little and look at the fluid. Clean fluid should be almost clear with maybe a little yellow depending on the brand. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and will draw in moisture from the air. Brake fluid, power steering fluid, differential oil, transmission fluid, and coolant needs to be flushed and replaced as part of a maintenance schedule to have years of trouble free operation.

Also how to make a one man brake bleeder for $5

 

i tried to get my rotors turned but everyone around here said they dont do it. the one place that did NTB national tire and battery said they charged $25 a rotor and havent done it in over 3 years... they didnt even know if they had a guy who still knew how to do it.....

If i want to change the brake fluid, any tips to it? https://www.dmv.org/how-to-guides/brake-fluid.php iIthink ill follow this outline

 

Yes these days people just want to sell new parts... When my dad had a shop they would rebuild calipers and wheel cylinders. the kits were only a couple of dollars.
I thought NTB did brakes?
You might try a brake shop or small garage and see if they will turn them... There is a minimum thickness they can wear down to before you have to replace them.
The high speed wobble could be a number of things. one would be to check the wheel bearings. As bearings wear they can cause the rotor to wobble a little and if there is any imperfections in the rotor or pads, along with the lose bearings, it will cause a wobble. Loose front end parts such as king pins, tie rod ends, radius and axle pivot arm bushings can cause a wobble also.

I would start with checking the wheel bearings and overall inspection of the front suspension parts.

As to the brake fluid flush. That is a good overall guide. here is another video that is really good.

 

 

What would be tell tale signs that I would be looking at for front suspension parts?
Also how do i tell if the bearings are bad? I was looking at them yesterday but didnt know what to look for. They seemed to be ok?

 

Any kind of pitting, scoring, dark spots, blue spots, pitting, ect. on the bearing or race.
here is a couple of videos that will help out.

If you have to change the bearings and don't have experience doing this then you should get a loaner tool from the auto parts store and use it to install the bearing races to limit the chances of damaging them. Drive the race in till you hear the race bottom out. You will hear a definite solid sound when they hit the bottom.
removal of bearing race


Instillation of bearing race

 

Wait, so there is a ring that needs removed from the old hub and put into the new hub? If i understand this correctly, on each wheel hub there is an inner and outer bearing and inner and outer rings (races?) that the bearings ride on?

If so, ****.. I need to take them apart again!