Need help with bleeding brakes
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Need help with bleeding brakes
2003 Sport Trac XLT
Hi guys.
I replaced a front left side caliper - bled the brake with lots of fluid using the old tube in glass method - but I still can't get pressure on the pedal, thinking I'd let the fluid down to far I bled the master cylinder - I've done this before, but never had this issue - just wondering if I have to bleed the other three or do I have some other issue?
When the engine is off the pedal is relatively hard to depress - with engine started the pedal goes to the floor with little resistance.
Any help would be appreciated as I need the truck for work on Wednesday
Thanks.
Hi guys.
I replaced a front left side caliper - bled the brake with lots of fluid using the old tube in glass method - but I still can't get pressure on the pedal, thinking I'd let the fluid down to far I bled the master cylinder - I've done this before, but never had this issue - just wondering if I have to bleed the other three or do I have some other issue?
When the engine is off the pedal is relatively hard to depress - with engine started the pedal goes to the floor with little resistance.
Any help would be appreciated as I need the truck for work on Wednesday
Thanks.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,816
Likes: 83
From: Cedar Rapids, IA
So did you do a two-person bleed or just a gravity feed? There are multiple ways it could be done and considered a "tube in glass" method.
Since it's a 2003, I'd recommend you either do a two-person bleed on all four wheels, started at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and working your way closer. Since it's a 2003 truck, chances are pretty good the brake fluid should be flushed anyway.
If you don't have a helper that can help you before Wednesday, then pick up either a MityVac system to do a one-person vacuum bleed or, from my experience, better yet, get a full set of "Speed Bleeders" and replace the bleeder screws with these one-way valve bleeders. Once installed, you just open them a quarter turn or so, connect your tube to the jar, then slowly pump the brake pedal a few times, making sure not to let the level in the master cylinder get too low.
-Rod
Since it's a 2003, I'd recommend you either do a two-person bleed on all four wheels, started at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and working your way closer. Since it's a 2003 truck, chances are pretty good the brake fluid should be flushed anyway.
If you don't have a helper that can help you before Wednesday, then pick up either a MityVac system to do a one-person vacuum bleed or, from my experience, better yet, get a full set of "Speed Bleeders" and replace the bleeder screws with these one-way valve bleeders. Once installed, you just open them a quarter turn or so, connect your tube to the jar, then slowly pump the brake pedal a few times, making sure not to let the level in the master cylinder get too low.
-Rod
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
So did you do a two-person bleed or just a gravity feed? There are multiple ways it could be done and considered a "tube in glass" method.
Since it's a 2003, I'd recommend you either do a two-person bleed on all four wheels, started at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and working your way closer. Since it's a 2003 truck, chances are pretty good the brake fluid should be flushed anyway.
If you don't have a helper that can help you before Wednesday, then pick up either a MityVac system to do a one-person vacuum bleed or, from my experience, better yet, get a full set of "Speed Bleeders" and replace the bleeder screws with these one-way valve bleeders. Once installed, you just open them a quarter turn or so, connect your tube to the jar, then slowly pump the brake pedal a few times, making sure not to let the level in the master cylinder get too low.
-Rod
Since it's a 2003, I'd recommend you either do a two-person bleed on all four wheels, started at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and working your way closer. Since it's a 2003 truck, chances are pretty good the brake fluid should be flushed anyway.
If you don't have a helper that can help you before Wednesday, then pick up either a MityVac system to do a one-person vacuum bleed or, from my experience, better yet, get a full set of "Speed Bleeders" and replace the bleeder screws with these one-way valve bleeders. Once installed, you just open them a quarter turn or so, connect your tube to the jar, then slowly pump the brake pedal a few times, making sure not to let the level in the master cylinder get too low.
-Rod
Thanks for the response Shorod - after the copious pumping of the brake pedal there was a small "pool" of brake fluid on the ground under the rear passenger brake caliper.
I pulled the wheel, cleaned it off and got my neighbour to pump the brakes - fluid is coming out of the centre hole in the bleed nipple. This caliper is "new", installed around one and a half years ago by a dealership.
The nipple could have worked it's way loose or it could have failed. As it was getting late I decided to pack the tools away and get at it in the morning.
What amazes me is the coincidence - I have never had one of those fail on any vehicle or what might have happened if I'd lost brakes while driving.
At least I know what to do next , Lol.
Cheers - learn something new everyday.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,816
Likes: 83
From: Cedar Rapids, IA
Wow, interesting. Hopefully the bleed screw is just loose. If it's not loose and not just rusted in place, carefully inspect the bore of the hole for cracks before just replacing the bleeder screw.
-Rod
-Rod
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
The bleed nipple came out with just my fingers, I bought a new nipple screwed it in and it seemed to bed down nicely, I bled that brake, but still not good pedal pressure - I looked around the underside of the nipple and there was a few drops coming out of the threaded hole and the nipple, which meant the threads had bee damaged somewhat - I replaced the caliper ($96 + tax) bled it and got the brakes working :
Here are a couple of pics:
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,816
Likes: 83
From: Cedar Rapids, IA
Looks a bit like part of the caliper threads are still in the bleeder screw threads. If not, then pieces of the bleeder screw threads are still in the old caliper. Good call to replace the caliper. I'm glad to hear you got your brake issue resolved, and thank you for posting what you found!
-Rod
-Rod
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
VT73
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
2
Oct 17, 2018 07:33 PM
SpeculatorNY
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
11
Jul 27, 2004 10:24 PM
