Hey all.
I just created this account for the purpose of hopefully getting some help out with my Ranger (although hopefully if I can get it running, I'll stick around as from a brief look I like the looks of this site).

I have a 1992 Ford Ranger (Regular Cab, Manual Trans, 2.3L 4 Cylinder) that has been having some issues for about the past month.
On my way to work one day, I realized my gas tank was really low, but given the short distance & the fact I was late I thought I had enough to get there.
About halfway there, I lose a LOT of power, my engine sounds louder than before, & it's rather shaky when shifting from first.
I head to the gas station, fill up, & only arrive to work a few minutes late. After filling up my tank, the truck runs "normally" after about 1-2 minutes.
When I drive it the next day however, I have intermittent power loss & occasional issues accelerating (although maintaining speed is fine).
I add some Fuel Injector cleaner to the tank & for the rest of that tank of gas, the truck runs perfectly.
However once I fill up again, not only do the issues start again, but this time they're even worse & I can't accelerate above 20 mph and getting to that speed takes almost 30 seconds.

After doing a little research (and consulting my brother in law who's training to be a mechanic) we figure a good place to start is the fuel system.
So far we have replaced:
Fuel Pump
Fuel Filter
All Fuel Injectors
Fuel Regulator
Air Filter
& several gaskets when we took the intake apart to get at everything in the engine bay.

After doing all of these things, there has been some change to the way it runs, but it hasn't fixed the issue either.
As it stands, the engine starts up & idles well (although it DOES sound like there's some kind of misfire going on). However once you add gas (while stationary) it chops up a little bit & the exhaust (for reference, it's essentially straight piped as all the other components rusted off) has LOTS of backfiring. It also smells very Gassy when previously it never smelled abnormally strong from running the engine... In addition, it's still essentially undrivable, and I couldn't even get it out of my garage (which has a small hill to get to the street level). If I try and give it gas while moving the vehicle, not only does the engine have noticeable misfiring, but it also seems to lose almost all power.
Now previously I have been able to get it out of the garage (after replacing some but not all the things I listed) and when coasting/going downhill, the engine runs almost perfectly & sounds relatively normal. But once the engine has the burden of carrying the weight of the vehicle, it kinda loses steam.

Given the fuel system has been almost entirely replaced (outside the fuel rail & fuel lines themselves) and the fact it sounds/smells like it's running rich, my next guess would be a spark issue but I don't really want to spend more money without being sure it's going to fix the problems (as it's beginning to feel like a money pit).

Now the truck does have 255K miles on it, so it's no spring chicken. But with all the work I've put into it, not to mention replacing the master/slave cylinders last year (among other minor things) I'd really love to get it running again.
I love this truck & don't want to have to part with it but I've kind of exhausted my vehicle knowledge for diagnosing the problem.

There is a check engine light on BUT it's also been on for the past 30k miles, so whether or not it's specifically related to this issue is a little beyond me. Also we did do a compression check and the PSI for the cylinders (back to front) was as follows: 85 PSI, 70 PSI, 90 PSI, 120 PSI.
So I'm slightly concerned it could be a head gasket issue, but since the fuel injector cleaner seemed to help the first time, & the fact I didn't have a problem until I let the tank get extremely low, I can't help but feel it's something else.
My only theory is that it's a spark related issue, however, I did test all 8 spark plugs (ah yes, 2 per cylinder) and they all seemed to produce spark.

If anyone has any experience with an issue similar to this or has any theories PLEASE let me know.
Thank you all.

My baby:

 

Welcome to FTE.
You've been busy on this puppy. Were all the items you replaced bad, or highly suspect, or were you just tossing parts at the problem & hoping for joy?
Not wise to have ignored a lit CEL for 30K miles, so maybe begin by scanning the computer for trouble code clues & post All code Numbers, as they can help focus a trouble shoot. We are to work & put right the lowest code number First, then work our way up the list.
If you don't have, or can't borrow or come by a ODB-1 code reader, or scan tool to query the computer for trouble code clues, with the OBD-1 diagnostic system you can use a jumper lead to have the onboard vehicle computer self diagnose & blink the dash CEL trouble codes. Or you could rig your own test set up to blink the codes, or use your analog multi-meter to have it "wave" the codes, by following the wiring set up's here.
http://www.troublecodes.net/ford/

On the fuel system questions, using your fuel pressure gauge, perform a fuel pressure & volume over time checks, at the under hood fuel rail Schrader valve test port & post the numbers. Go here to get the test sequence & spec numbers. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17960905
EDIT: This vehicle has a "return" fuel system, such that there is a return line for unused fuel to flow from the FPR back to the fuel tank, so if it's clogged, crimped, kinked, pinched, or otherwise restricted it'll make fuel delivery wimpy & cause the pump to over heat from having to work too hard. SO, with the engine off & the return line disconnected for the volume delivery test, loosen the fuel cap & blow through the return line. It Shouldn't be restricted or really hard to have air flow through it.

Has this puppy had the timing belt & tensioner replaced, if not, they have lived 2.5 life times & the belt may have jumped a cog or two & valve timing may be off, or the timing belt is about to break.
Has the PCV valve ever been replaced & its rubber plumbing checked for dry rot cracks, splits, loose fit?
If you want the vehicle to run as well as it can, continue to get All of its due past & present scheduled maintenance replacement items done, like the PCV valve, plugs, wires, O2 sensor, filters & scan for & put right all of the trouble codes found. With this kind of mileage it's earned some love.
Some beginning thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find