Ok First off I have noticed several posts on this but it doesn't seem anyone has finished the thread with an answer.


about a month and a half ago I was doin 70mph down the highway and the truck began to lean out sputtering and sounding like fuel was not getting there, when I pulled over on the side of the highway because it killed itself and then the car would not start I noticed the ox sensor for the 3rd cat was ripped out from being caught on the driveline, I removed ox sensor and car still wouldn't start. I took the truck to my buddies shop and after a new ox sensor was installed with some effort the truck started 30minutes later, hmmm I did not think this was reason for the truck to not start but after a day it was running like a top again, little did I know haha


last week driving down the highway ironically in the same spot as before the truck did the same thing sputtered to a stop and would not restart.


Side NOte: on both of these occasions after the truck would sit for a day it would start run for about 5 seconds and die????


So I had it towed home again and began reading FTE, I saw posts about fuel pressure and spark and P0176 code for Flex Fuel, Inertia Switch and so on.


So I started with Fuses they all look good then the most popular post and 2 of the codes were P0176 and P0177 for flex Fuel they read OBD II flex fuel wont start....Another code was for EVAP and 3 codes for heater bank(it turned out to be a fuse but is or could something trip this to send the car down this path?


I Then figured I would try the Fuel Filter..This did not work.


2nd I tried was Fuel pump pressure is good based off others posts.


so I bought the Flex Fuel Replicator that eliminates the need for the flex fuel sensor, from the guy in Portland, well this didn't work either


Next I went to spark checked all plugs they smelled like gas and were slightly fouled I had just replaced these about a year ago but hell why not? so I replaced and got nothing still also checked the oil had some gas smell to it but my buddy said this was normal with trying to get it to turn over without success.


Checked inertia cut off it was normal, checked fuses they were good(except heater which has been replaced)


Now im stuck and I would love to actually finish this thread so other people will get past this frankly this is the most discouraging repair ever im open for ideas


Thank You all in advance

 

Welcome to FTE.

We know it's a 2000 Ranger, but might be helpful if you'd post up the engine, tranny, cab style, how many miles on it, any recent repairs preceding the woes & if your up to date on All past & present due scheduled maintenance replacement items. From some of your statements it sounds like it could be a 3.0L Flex Fuel engine & if so we need to know that.

Acquire, or borrow a ELM scan tool & run FORScan or the like diagnostic software on the viewing device of your choice as discussed here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-scantool.html & have it perform an in depth scan of the vehicle computer/controllers for trouble code clues & post All code Numbers, as they can help focus a trouble shoot.

All that said, until you get it scanned for codes, consider it takes Air, Fuel, Spark & Compression to make em run, so whats going missing?

You said you've replaced the fuel filter & checked fuel pressure but post up the Numbers.
Also check fuel pump delivery rate, it should be about 1/2pt/15 seconds pump run time.

When you got it running again & it stalled along about the same stretch of road, had you been driving it about 20-30 min? If so, next time it stalls & won't restart, try opening the gas cap to vent the tank & equalize pressure & see if it'll restart without delay.
If it will, suspect the gas cap isn't properly venting to keep the tank pressure within bounds & the engine is stalling because after say 15-30 min run time the fuel pump has pulled a vacuum on the tank it can no longer over come, so replace the gas cap with a Motorcraft & see how it goes.

When it won't start, use your inductive timing light to safely check for spark & the fuel pressure gauge to see if fuel pressure is going missing.

Don't replace any more parts unless your trouble shoot proves they're bad, or are at least highly suspect, or they're due for scheduled maintenance replacement.

Some starting thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.

 

Yea that would definitely help haha so it's a 2000 ford ranger 3.0l V6 flex fuel, standard trans, single cab, with 197k on I bought it used it used to be a fleet truck got it with 85k on it and it's run like a top since day 1 scheduled maintenance is up to date it needs an oil change but the truck died before I could do that, the ox sensor has been the only vehicle repair needed outside of standard maintenance I don't have the fuel pressure stats anymore but I will be working on it all day tomorrow and posting up info as I go. I have also been told to check the crankshaft position sensor along with the coil pack (I replaced the coil pack and spark plugs and spark wires about a year ago). I will test the gas cap first thing tomorrow and let you know, and time wise yes my drive to work is 35 minutes and it happened about 5 minutes from work with that said the cutting out sputtering started happening about 10 minutes prior to that. Thanks again and I'll keep it posted

 

Ok I checked fuel pressure 57psi and checked fuel cap still a no go

 

Ok good feedback on the fuel pressure. It's 64 +/-8psi, so is ok, but on the low side of spec. How is delivery rate?
So check for spark with your inductive timing light.

 

3 codes pop with scanner one has been fixed just need to clear it that is
P0176 fuel comp sensor circuit malfunction
P1000 obd I I monitor test/drive cycle not complete
P1451 EVAP system vent control valve circuit malfunction

Ok replaced crankshaft sensor did not help also double checked coil pack, coil pack is good but no spark, swapped in a Brad new coil pack that didn't work either thought my tool broke checked my brothers ranger and it worked fine....I was told to look at or replace Camden sorry/synchronizer... unsure of fuel pressure but plugs are new and they smell like gas if that helps, checked codes and nothing that helps P1000 and P1451, swapped out relays to double check nothing checked resistance on all fuses they are all good... I'm running out of ideas unsure of how to get the other half of the fuel reading you are asking for

Thanks
Chris

 

Did you pull the No. 1 plug and physically check there was no spark? Check for voltage getting to your coil pack. Try swapping out the ECU with the other truck if it can be done. Remove battery terminal and let sit to clear any codes and see if it will start and relearn parameters. Check the wire from that OX sensor that was pulled out to verify that the fire was not damaged further up in the system.

 

https://www.obd-codes.com/p1451-ford

https://www.obd-codes.com/p1000

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0176

 

Also the 4 prong connector going to the coil pack, only has power at the red wire constant 12v, when I crank the motor to check the that power is firing while cranking the 3 wires have no power but it looks like relays are good tried the old rotation test any ideas?

 

Thank you guys for the replies but no success, yes spark plug was pulled and tested no spark followed wires back and now I'm stuck

 

Thank you guys for the replies but no success, yes spark plug was pulled and tested no spark followed wires back and now I'm stuck

 

If your spark plugs are not firing( no spark ) either your coil pack is bad or wiring going to coil pack is bad,,,or the crankshaft position sensor is not telling the computer to fire the plugs,,,or maybe bad computer,,,check the wiring going to the coil pack for voltage first

 

Your truck may have the PATS anti theft system. If it does there is an anti theft light in instrument cluster that flashes periodically with engine off. If it does while cranking it there is a problem in the PATS and it will prevent engine from starting. The ignition keys have chips in them. Can try the spare to see if it runs with it.Just a long shot, but thought I would throw it out there.

 

The PAT'S is solid while cranking, coil pack is good wires to coil are getting no power except the red 12v, crankshaft sensor is brand new replaced this morning, what's strange is going back to orignals post it sputtered out at 70mph then would not restart I'm thinking short?

 

Your Pats anti thief light on dashboard should blink about every 3 seconds if working right,,,,when you turn key to on position it should light and then go off if memory serves me right,,, i dont think it should be lit while cranking,,,but i may be wrong