T4/SXE vs. KC38R - Decision has been made...
#767
We need some towing reviews with the setup now that it is together. I am interested in the "lower" boost pressure statement. Earlier you stated that you easily hit 30psi boost. 30psi just sounds pretty high given the 64.5/73 size of the turbo. Whenever I've gone "bigger" my boost pressure always drops. Have talked to a few people that are S366/stock injectors that don't go over 24psi.
Here is a picture of the front storage bay with 90% of the wiring done so far.
Just so you don't have to go back and read through all of my posts, I will repeat myself. By stating lower boost pressure, I mean that the SXE turbo is very free flowing and it can accomplish the same amount of power and work with a lower boost pressure number as a drop in turbo pushing more pressure. Look at it like using an air compressor to blow 50 psi into a straw vs. blowing garden hose. Of course a Garrett or Borg Warner turbo is far more complex than a straw, but I think you understand the very basic analogy.
On my test runs, I think (it was a while back now and I am old) the turbo boosted to ~30 psi with a good amount of throttle input in 3rd and 4th gear. That was simply a geewhiz for me though. I don't care about how much boost the turbo builds, what I care about is EGT's and how little the boost the turbo builds in order to accomplish the same work. Exhaust back pressure and manifold air pressure being a 1:1 ratio is key in order to keep EGT's down since I plan to stick with OEM injectors. Some people want big HP/TQ numbers, I don't care to be honest with you. I want high miles (750,000 would be nice) and a smooth running, efficient machine to cross the country in.
In my opinion the 366 is too big for stock injectors. I am happy I didn't get the 363 though because I think that would have limited the top end performance of the engine in relation to grades or extended higher RPM runs. I think the 364.5 with the larger turbine wheel is a good match up, but that is subjective and each owner/driver has different thoughts about what their truck is for and what their goals are. To each their own... You feel that building a modified stock turbo is the best route, for me it was a T4, SXE and selling the take off parts. I am done with testing and confident about the performance levels of the truck now.
Taking your own statement of
I am going to say something here and I might be way off base, and it doesn't matter if you respond or not, but here it goes... It seems you are dead set on proving the T4/SXE wrong in anyway you can. It might be because of the initial cost involved, or it might be because you simply don't like the T4 setup. I don't know what the deal is. You seem to be laser focused on modifying a stock turbo with larger/smaller housings, porting housings, swapping turbine/compressor wheels, etc until you find the right setup for you. That is the problem, even two identical trucks will run differently because of their history in service, repairs, etc... You do you, and I will do me.
My path to success for the work I needed completed by my truck was to go the T4/SXE route, this appears to not be your path. This doesn't bother me one bit, because it is your money, your time, your effort and your truck. Do I think my setup is the best in the world, not even close. Do I think it is better than a GTP38R, KC38R or modified turbo, yup... all f-ing day long. The fact that the engine is the same as before the T4/SXE is huge in my mind. Longevity, efficiency and reliability are my goals, not "see what I did for $400". I strongly feel I have attained my goal by installing bolt on parts under the hood. No different really than installing RiffRaff boots, boost fooler or FRx.
In the end...
By swapping in the T4/SXE it allows me to move onto other projects and move on with my life as well. Solar for the camper, wood shop in the basement (looking forward to the 26x42 lathe), remodeling bathroom, etc... I am not someone that wants to be working on my truck all the time. I am someone who wants to park the truck under the RV cover in the back of our property and leave it sit until I need it to go to Home Depot, take a load to the landfill or tow the camper from GA to WA and back stopping between to drink beer with friends and family. I will work on it when I need to, but it is a truck and there is so much more to life than wrenching on the truck spending time and money that is better spent in other places of my life and my family's life.
I will have updates on the performance (boost, EGT's, etc) once we tow the camper for the first and second time. After that, I will be on the road drinking beer and hanging out with old military friends, new truck friends and seeing family around the country.
#768
Well, I can tell you right now that the truck will do great with the trailer simply based on how the EGT's are and how the truck runs with no load and then nearly 1000 lbs in the bed and lugging the engine. I will have towing numbers soonish though. I am installing a lot of auxiliary equipment on the camper now since camping season is out.
Here is a picture of the front storage bay with 90% of the wiring done so far.
Just so you don't have to go back and read through all of my posts, I will repeat myself. By stating lower boost pressure, I mean that the turbo is so free flowing that it can accomplish the same amount of power and work with a lower boost number as a drop in turbo pushing more pressure. Look at it like using an air compressor to blow 50 psi into a straw vs. blowing garden hose.
On my test runs, I think (it was a while back now and I am old) the turbo boosted to ~30 psi with a good amount of throttle input in 3rd and 4th gear. That was simply a geewhiz for me though. I don't care about how much boost the turbo builds, what I care about is EGT's and how little the boost the turbo builds in order to accomplish the same work. Exhaust back pressure and manifold air pressure being a 1:1 ratio is key in order to keep EGT's down since I plan to stick with OEM injectors. Some people want big HP/TQ numbers, I don't care to be honest with you. I want high miles (750,000 would be nice) and a smooth running, efficient machine to cross the country in.
In my opinion the 366 is too big for stock injectors. I am happy I didn't get the 363 though because I think that would have limited the top end performance of the engine in relation to grades or extended higher RPM runs. I think the 364.5 with the larger turbine wheel is a good match up, but that is subjective and each owner/driver has different thoughts about what their truck is for and what their goals are. To each their own... You feel that building a modified stock turbo is the best route, for me it was a T4, SXE and selling the take off parts. I am done with testing and confident about the performance levels of the truck now.
Taking your own statement of
Why would it be difficult to see an additional 6 psi out of the smaller turbo with stock injectors just like the 366 people are running?
I am going to say something here and I might be way off base, and you don't have to answer it if you don't want, but here it goes... It seems you are dead set on proving the T4/SXE wrong in anyway you can. It might be because of the initial cost involved, or it might be because you simply don't like the T4 setup. I don't know what the deal is. You seem to be laser focused on modifying a stock turbo with larger/smaller housings, porting housings, swapping turbine/compressor wheels, etc until you find the right setup for you. That is the problem, even two identical trucks will run differently because of their history in service, repairs, etc... You do you, and I will do me.
My path to success for the work I needed completed by my truck was to go the T4/SXE route, this appears to not be your path. This doesn't bother me one bit, because it is your money, your time, your effort and your truck. Do I think my setup is the best in the world, not even close. Do I think it is better than a GTP38R, KC38R or modified turbo, yup... all f-ing day long. The fact that the engine is the same as before the T4/SXE is huge in my mind. Longevity, efficiency and reliability are my goals, not "see what I did for $400". I strongly feel I have attained my goal by installing bolt on parts under the hood. No different really than installing RiffRaff boots, boost fooler or FRx.
In the end...
By swapping in the T4/SXE it allows me to move onto other projects and move on with my life as well. Solar for the camper, wood shop in the basement (looking forward to the 26x42 lathe), remodeling bathroom, etc... I am not someone that wants to be working on my truck all the time. I am someone who wants to park the truck under the RV cover in the back of our property and leave it sit until I need it to go to Home Depot, take a load to the landfill or tow the camper from GA to WA and back stopping between to drink beer with friends and family. I will work on it when I need to, but it is a truck and there is so much more to life than wrenching on the truck spending time and money that is better spent in other places of my life and my family's life.
I will have updates on the performance (boost, EGT's, etc) once we tow the camper for the first and second time. After that, I will be on the road drinking beer and hanging out with old military friends, new truck friends and seeing family around the country.
Here is a picture of the front storage bay with 90% of the wiring done so far.
Just so you don't have to go back and read through all of my posts, I will repeat myself. By stating lower boost pressure, I mean that the turbo is so free flowing that it can accomplish the same amount of power and work with a lower boost number as a drop in turbo pushing more pressure. Look at it like using an air compressor to blow 50 psi into a straw vs. blowing garden hose.
On my test runs, I think (it was a while back now and I am old) the turbo boosted to ~30 psi with a good amount of throttle input in 3rd and 4th gear. That was simply a geewhiz for me though. I don't care about how much boost the turbo builds, what I care about is EGT's and how little the boost the turbo builds in order to accomplish the same work. Exhaust back pressure and manifold air pressure being a 1:1 ratio is key in order to keep EGT's down since I plan to stick with OEM injectors. Some people want big HP/TQ numbers, I don't care to be honest with you. I want high miles (750,000 would be nice) and a smooth running, efficient machine to cross the country in.
In my opinion the 366 is too big for stock injectors. I am happy I didn't get the 363 though because I think that would have limited the top end performance of the engine in relation to grades or extended higher RPM runs. I think the 364.5 with the larger turbine wheel is a good match up, but that is subjective and each owner/driver has different thoughts about what their truck is for and what their goals are. To each their own... You feel that building a modified stock turbo is the best route, for me it was a T4, SXE and selling the take off parts. I am done with testing and confident about the performance levels of the truck now.
Taking your own statement of
Why would it be difficult to see an additional 6 psi out of the smaller turbo with stock injectors just like the 366 people are running?
I am going to say something here and I might be way off base, and you don't have to answer it if you don't want, but here it goes... It seems you are dead set on proving the T4/SXE wrong in anyway you can. It might be because of the initial cost involved, or it might be because you simply don't like the T4 setup. I don't know what the deal is. You seem to be laser focused on modifying a stock turbo with larger/smaller housings, porting housings, swapping turbine/compressor wheels, etc until you find the right setup for you. That is the problem, even two identical trucks will run differently because of their history in service, repairs, etc... You do you, and I will do me.
My path to success for the work I needed completed by my truck was to go the T4/SXE route, this appears to not be your path. This doesn't bother me one bit, because it is your money, your time, your effort and your truck. Do I think my setup is the best in the world, not even close. Do I think it is better than a GTP38R, KC38R or modified turbo, yup... all f-ing day long. The fact that the engine is the same as before the T4/SXE is huge in my mind. Longevity, efficiency and reliability are my goals, not "see what I did for $400". I strongly feel I have attained my goal by installing bolt on parts under the hood. No different really than installing RiffRaff boots, boost fooler or FRx.
In the end...
By swapping in the T4/SXE it allows me to move onto other projects and move on with my life as well. Solar for the camper, wood shop in the basement (looking forward to the 26x42 lathe), remodeling bathroom, etc... I am not someone that wants to be working on my truck all the time. I am someone who wants to park the truck under the RV cover in the back of our property and leave it sit until I need it to go to Home Depot, take a load to the landfill or tow the camper from GA to WA and back stopping between to drink beer with friends and family. I will work on it when I need to, but it is a truck and there is so much more to life than wrenching on the truck spending time and money that is better spent in other places of my life and my family's life.
I will have updates on the performance (boost, EGT's, etc) once we tow the camper for the first and second time. After that, I will be on the road drinking beer and hanging out with old military friends, new truck friends and seeing family around the country.
Myyyyyyy brothah....LOL I reflect these statements. You did very nice on the project.....solar as well as T4...cheers.
#769
I had to fix the negative (black) 2/0 wire going from the negative terminal block to the inverter on the left. Standing under the front of the 5th wheel it looked good, but in the pictures from straight on it needed some tweaking. I cut ~1" off the cable and reterminated the 5/16" x 2/0 lug and now it goes straight from the inverter to the terminal block without that squiggle between that you seen in the pictures above.
Be safe on your trip, we will be watching from a distance.
#770
My above post was not pointed toward T4 vs. drop in. My statement of pressures dropping when going to a larger/different turbo is in reference to a different motor I have and what I have noticed.
#771
Although, again... the amount of boost pressure is not what is important here as my truck is not a dyno queen. It is a truck built to work for a living.
#772
#773
Although it will still be a bit before I hook up the camper. I can try the stock tune the next time I have the truck on the road though, even if it is not loaded down.
#777
The stock injector SXE guys have mentioned how the T4 spools up boost instantly compared to the modded stock turbo's 1600 rpm (or so), and needs less throttle input to keep it spooled it up.
Usually starting at 4psi even the average butt dunno can feel the big difference the boost makes to SOTP power anyways. That's why EGT, rpm, boost, icp numbers get used during good comparisons. Numbers, you can see and compare without bias or opinion of different people
#778
SOTP, that's alomost irrelevant, like saying my hunting dog is better than yours, without taking them out side by side to the same place the same day to have a real comparison. My butt dyno got used to my corvette long b4 my 7.3, yours might have been used to a 4 banger and then the 7.3 felt awesomely fast by comparison.
The stock injector SXE guys have mentioned how the T4 spools up boost instantly compared to the modded stock turbo's 1600 rpm (or so), and needs less throttle input to keep it spooled it up.
Usually starting at 4psi even the average butt dunno can feel the big difference the boost makes to SOTP power anyways. That's why EGT, rpm, boost, icp numbers get used during good comparisons. Numbers, you can see and compare without bias or opinion of different people
The stock injector SXE guys have mentioned how the T4 spools up boost instantly compared to the modded stock turbo's 1600 rpm (or so), and needs less throttle input to keep it spooled it up.
Usually starting at 4psi even the average butt dunno can feel the big difference the boost makes to SOTP power anyways. That's why EGT, rpm, boost, icp numbers get used during good comparisons. Numbers, you can see and compare without bias or opinion of different people
I wouldnt waste the money on any turbo for a DD truck. BTW I mis spoke above, Im able to hit a max boost of 25 psi in the stock tune with stock injectors. It takes a while but EGTs max at just under 1000 degrees.
#780