I feel your pain, have pulled my remans like 6 time for repair/ replace, they still are junk. On my nicer truck I put new alliant ac's in and it is running perfect, I will be putting new ac's in place of my crappy 180/30 next year. I don't ever plan on doing remans ever again, if I do it would be on a beater truck or something, the only company I would use for remans is Unlimited Diesel

 

I wouldn’t be so quick to plug them. After a few sets of ‘good ones’ they last (3) sets suck and customer service for the last guy I sent there is so bad I absolutely won’t use them again.

A rebuild is only as good as the parts put in it and the way they are tested before they go out. At the price these guys are selling remans - there is no way they are ‘doing it right’ and some of them don’t even have a test bench that works right.

Luckily, Bitterroot Diesel just started offering rebuilt 7.3 injectors to the public. They designed and sold THE test bench controller all the legitimate shops use to test these injectors. Priced a little higher than the others - but you’ll get what you pay for.

 

As a side note, at least when it comes to ac's the new alliant are only $600 more then Unlimited, a more expensive reman is kinda pointless, of course that all changes when you go to bigger injectors/hybrids. There is definatly a reason that Riffraff and 1023 are now selling Unlimited and not just FFD anymore (just ask them why) Also Corey@cncfab has a new flow bench and it sounds like he is going to expand into injector work, so maybe a new good quality builder coming soon.
Thats it for me as far as sidetracking from this thread for now
Edit, I am going to check out Bitterroot, thanks for the reccomendation

 

@ESwift , any and all comments by you and any other forum member are welcome here. This thread has turned into a wealth of information and is a living document of sorts. It will continue to evolve and have wayward conversations throughout and I welcome and encourage that.

What you, SSJ and others have said is somewhat common knowledge to me, but not everyone else knows these details.

Like JT250 changing out 26 injectors... Wow... That is all I have to say about that...

Even Rosewood is not perfect. Remans have been a good deal for some, but most of the time they are a hassle. I will never install reman injectors in my truck, but I may never install different injectors in my truck either if the OEM AD's continue to perform as they are. Of course, I have the little devil on my left shoulder screaming at me to just do the injectors this winter when I change the pedestal o-ring, fuel lines and have all of that stuff out of the way.

Who knows what will happen really, but I have a strict budget that must be adhered to.

Thank you for your comments, and everyone else commenting in here. I am not the only one learning from this thread and your time to share is very much appreciated.

 

Thanks Sous,
A comment from Dusty on my phone call yesterday that I will add to this conversation:
Alliant (ac's) are amazing in regards to the fact that every single set I (Dusty) sell run F'n PERFECT

 

I have only heard good things about new Alliant AC 160/0 injectors. That is my only option besides new Alliant AD 140/0 injectors if/when the time comes.

 

Well after lots of number crunching and research, I have come to the conclusion I need the following things to get my truck to where I want it.
1: the smaller turbine 364.5
2: 4.10 gears
3 An allison 6 speed with a CA Conversions kit
And before any of this I need a 10k 2 post lift in my shop
Hang tight, this part of my project tow rig is likely to take another 2 years....

 

LOL. The PMS is strong in this one.

 

PMS has taken over, and I have quit fighting it.

 

Noob you’ve gotten a few good zingers in lately. Keep the laughs coming!

Although I encourage @ESwift ’s PMS, I also try to pull him back just enough to keep his wife from sending him to the doghouse permanently! Maybe this is more like a 3 year plan.

 

I think it's my form of gallows humor after my brush with death in the doghouse recently.

 

So I’ve also been trying to do some research, but the emphasis is on try.

There are multiple ways to tweak these turbos and I’m trying to figure out which aspect impacts each item etc

So the way I see it you can adjust
1) Impeller size
2) turbine size
3) Outlet housing A/R

Does anyone have a link to an explanation of how all these impact the way the turbo functions?
Specifically for the S300 series all I seem to find is a chart showing buying options.

I’m currently wondering if just a change to the 0.88 A/R housing would make the adjustment I’m looking for. I would expect a more responsive turbo but possibly higher EBP to Drive pressure Ratio and maybe higher EGTs when flowing hard.

 

Eswift, thanks for relaying your plans and bringing options to the table for other followers of our journey.

On a personal level, I have decided against swapping out my 364.5/80/.91 for the smaller 363. I am confident that the smaller turbine 363 and the .88 A/R would make a noticeable difference on my ZF6 truck, but if I am being completely honest I am 100% happy with how the 364.5/80/.91 performs and would be remiss if I took a great performing part and replaced it. If it isn't broke, don't fix it...

I have towed thousands of miles across all sorts of terrain at all sorts of speeds with the ZF6 and 364.5/80/.91 combo and I am grateful for how easy it is to drive and still obtain 13.5 MPG's while towing 12,000 lbs of 5th wheel and cargo.

So, I am down to the following list of parts going in this winter.

First is to make sure the pedestal o-rings are actually leaking with this.
If the o-rings are verified to be the source of the leak, I will purchase the following parts and try to remove the existing pedestal hold down bolts and install new flange bolts with loctite on them.

• 1x Loctite 243 medium strength
• 4x M8x1.25x30 flange hex head bolt

If the new flange bolts with loctite do not stop the leak, I will remove the T4 mount and install the following parts.

• 1x T4 twin scroll gasket
• 1x T4 twin scroll gasket
• 1x Quad ring Viton 205 o-ring - Received 7/8/2020
• 1x Quad ring Viton 211 o-ring - Received 7/8/2020
• 1x Black VHT Flameproof
• 1x Riffraff T4 fuel line kit
• Possibly New Alliant AC 160/0 injectors

@RacinJasonWV These guys have some great information on the layman level about turbos...

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCB7...puu_pvWe680-xw

For example...

 

I believe the .88 would def help spool at a little lower rpm. I do not believe it would raise your egts or ebp to any relavent extent. It is not like you are running around wot at 3000+ very often. I have heard peoples concerns about the smaller housing being too restrictive, but as I had texted you at one point, I had run my 38r with a billet wheel and the .84 housing of stock turbo with diesel site wastegate actuator locked down tight, this was on my zf6 with 180/30 towing heavy. Yes it spooled fast! Most surprisingly I did not see any negative effects of egt/ebp untill 2800 rpm heavy throttle, at which it obviously couldnt move enough air and smoke/ebp increased. Would I recommend it, not at all, but it was a good test, and to me it shows that the more efficient 364.5 turbine/housing would flow just fine on .88 with stock or stage 1 sticks.
As far as turbine/compressor sizing, there should be no way the 364.5 compressor would cause any of your or my "under the turbo" feel at our lower rpms. This leaves the turbine side. Basically the 364.5 (and some other sxe's) have 2 size turbines, our 74/80 and the 68/76. They both are styled the same, the larger will flow more efficiently at higher rpms, or with more heat (heavy throttle, larger injectors, injection timing, or elongated pw, or a combo of these) the drawback to the larger wheel is it is heavier and by design will spool at a higher base rpm.
The smaller wheel will build boost and come into its sweet spot at a lower rpm, there will be some loss of efficiency with larger injectors or high rpms, but for how your/my truck is wanting to run I now believe we will gain faster spooling and minimal if not zero performance loss and that this is our best option (short of the vgt option), the .88 and larger turbine would be the 2nd best (but lots cheaper)

I now have some sdk files on hand, and am having Dusty adjust my 1023 files to see how that improves my current setup before I do any changes, I believe after its done I may feel any turbo change is less needed. (Allison conversion still a must in my brain for now lol)

​​​​I will say I love the larger turbine with my zf6 and have no plans to ever change it, but that truck has 4.10s and the normal cruising rpm for me is usually 21-2200, where as my auto and 3.73s is usually wanting to be from 16-1800 :-(

Many thanks to Sous for starting this thread. My trucks are greatly improved with their sxe turbos, and its only cost me countless hours and around $6,000+ in turbo setups.... If we should ever meet, I will not mention to my wife that it's all his fault :-)
​
Edit: this took forever to post as my power went out for a bit, I just did a short heavy tow with the sdk tunes, and wow he has it close, spool is faster and lockup is delayed to keep rpms up, needs some tweeking/ more road time. Saw 31psi in fairly light throttle up a steep section at 2600rpm. More to follow. At a church work bee with the family and friends

 

IMO a 68mm turbine is too small for a 7.3 as it is the same size as the stop GTP38. The 7.3 likes to breath on the exhaust side, the bigger 74mm turbine helps everything.