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Got the Readylift 2.5 leveling kit installed and have the typical lightness and wandering that so many have described. Dealer did the install and aligned it, but didn't used castor bushings. I spoke with an alignment shop that I've used a bunch and trust, and they said they would take initial alignment reading and then use the proper bushings needed to get it right. They also said that they may have to charge me more to reset the "steering wheel sensors", what ever that means. Does anyone know what he may be talking about? Had anyone else had to do anything like that for their alignment after leveling? I don't want to be gouged for work that isn't necessary, however I know these new trucks have a lot more electronics in them.
Also, I know there are a quite a few discussions about alignment settings with leveling kits. Can anyone give me a good set of numbers that the alignment shop should be shooting for so that the truck drives like stock? Any tips or trick in this department would be awesome. Thanks!
My alignment has never been right since installing the BDS 2 inch level. Been to 3 alignment shops. They all say “oh you were right that was off”..... then it’s still off. I’m close to returning to stock. I purchased the Fox steering stabilizer to see if that will help. I’m starting to think all these people saying their trucks track straight and true after a level are bull****ting me. Or the BDS 2 inch track bar relocation bracket and or caster bushings are some how throwing everything off. Lol. It’s funny but not funny. Also just as a side note, the 3 shops I have been to for alignment are not chain quickie garbage shops. They have been around forever and get great great reviews. So it’s hard not to trust them.
The castor is the most important spec in the front end, toe and camber the usual terms you hear wont effect stability. Tire wear yes. But the feeling of the truck and the steering wheel returning is all castor. When they had leaf springs it was set in the axle and you never had a problem with castor, now with the coil springs they have to locate the axle some how and then they added the radius arms. When you lift it the axle pivots down and so does your castor, you can get drop brackets for the arms and return the castor to the proper setting or the castor bushings but a pain to put in and get right as every time you adjust them you have to reset the alignment machine each and every time. I hope that the bushings will get you back in spec as they only have limited adjustment. I would get it in writing that with the castor bushings your alignment will be in spec and not close enough. Good luck
My truck drives like it's stock and rides even better (fox 2.0 resi shocks ) Not sure if the radius arms are the secret but i am extremely happy with rancho kit.
I have the 2" bds leveling kit. I have zero alignment issues. The problem I was having was tire balancing. After trying multiple shops, multiple balances, centramatics, finally had a road force done. So far so good. Steering wheel is perfectly straight. No wandering. I had a steering wheel shimmy due to the tire balancing issue
I just ask for the print out it shows the correct range , the before , and after specs. they should give it to you for free if they do an alignment. I pretty much trust know one. but I don't show my cust unless they ask me. but there is one in every file just in case. if the op has a what we call in the business a electric column he is correct it must be centered.
there is no sensor recalibration needed on a level kit. I had readylift, and now carli on my truck. no issues and no steering sensor recalibration. and yes, caster will need to be increased or the steering will feel light and wander. i have 2* shims installed.
What cracks me up, is the poor logic that alignment shops follow. Where is this stone commandment that says the OEM caster range is proper for a lifted truck?
If the truck NEEDS more caster, add more caster. I hate how a truck can be at the minimum of the OEM spec, and they'll allow it, as if that was ok.
It's posts like this that make me extremely leery of leveling my truck. I love how the truck rides as it is, but I can't stand the nose-dive stance. Currently looking at the BDS 2" level with Fox shocks, or the Ready Lift 2.5" level. I also keep hearing that an alignment is only as good as the tech that does it.
Anyone with these levels have adaptive steering? Any issues?
The BDS kit is great. Get the adjustable trac bar.
Adapt steering requires that you disconnect the battery for lift installs. If you don't do it yourself, hang a tag on the steering wheel to remind your tech.
Alignments are easy, this truck can be aligned with a ball of string and some basic tools. Only rust, and the semi truck sized joints, makes it hard to do.
The motors in it wind it up to remove all the play. Otherwise the truck, thanks to all the steering gear pieces, would have world record slop and dead band in the steering. (remember the garbage Ford Lightnings that you could turn the wheel 45 degrees in either direction and the truck would still go straight? way worse than that)
If you remove the pitman arm for a 4" lift, the motor will spaz out in the steering and rip the entire assembly apart. Weirdest truck part I've ever heard of.
And generally in just about anything, after making changes, you have to disconnect the battery to complete the job anyways. So all the sensors and $%^& can reboot.
The motors in it wind it up to remove all the play. Otherwise the truck, thanks to all the steering gear pieces, would have world record slop and dead band in the steering. (remember the garbage Ford Lightnings that you could turn the wheel 45 degrees in either direction and the truck would still go straight? way worse than that)
If you remove the pitman arm for a 4" lift, the motor will spaz out in the steering and rip the entire assembly apart. Weirdest truck part I've ever heard of.
And generally in just about anything, after making changes, you have to disconnect the battery to complete the job anyways. So all the sensors and $%^& can reboot.