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Does this mean the booster off a 78 f250 with two piston front calipers wont work on my 68?
It had the linkage/bellcrank from the pedal to the booster.
I got everything from the doner.
pedal.pedal support bracket.linkage.booster to fire wall brackets
Doing a crown vic swap.
9 inch rear getting disks
I know of at least two different (flat) input rods on these boosters (the flat rod that runs between the brake pedal to the bellcrank mechanism). From '73 to somewhere between 1975 to 1977, the flat input rod between the brake pedal to the bellcrank mechanism was longer than the 2nd, later version that had a shorter flat input rod.
I've looked at this before (since I have 4 or 5 of these bellcrank booster assemblies) and it would not be difficult to make a new (flat) input rod, depending on if what you had was too long or too short to line up with your brake pedal. A piece of 1/4" thick x 2" wide flat bar would be needed to cut the modified input rod from. The end of the flat input rod, where the bolt goes through into the brake pedal, would need to be drilled with a 5/8" drill.
If you wanted to up the stopping power of the bellcrank style single diaphragm booster, you could install a dual diaphragm booster on the same brackets. The short input rod (the round rod between the bellcrank mechanism to the back of the booster) dual diaphragm booster, for a bellcrank bracket assembly, is part number 54-73311.
I've got the master and booster ordered. Thanks again for the extremely valuable information!
I just saw your other thread and realized you're working with a '67. The '67s have an odd-ball, one year only, pedal support and pedal(s). You may discover that you could possibly run into some funny business when you go to install your brake booster but, that's to be determined.
Depending on the length of the input rod between the brake pedal to the bellcrank mechanism, you may have to fabricate a new rod to the length needed. The other alternative would be to install a '68-'72 pedal support/pedal(s).
However, I wouldn't do anything until I had the booster in hand, to fit up on the firewall, to see if things do line up or if they don't.
I just saw your other thread and realized you're working with a '67. The '67s have an odd-ball, one year only, pedal support and pedal(s). You may discover that you could possibly run into some funny business when you go to install your brake booster but, that's to be determined.
Depending on the length of the input rod between the brake pedal to the bellcrank mechanism, you may have to fabricate a new rod to the length needed. The other alternative would be to install a '68-'72 pedal support/pedal(s).
However, I wouldn't do anything until I had the booster in hand, to fit up on the firewall, to see if things do line up or if they don't.
Sound advice. I will see what needs to be done once all the parts are in hand. Thanks for all your help.
Brown truck delivered everything that was ordered. FYI, the link to brackets I posted work just fine, although you discard 75% of what comes with them.
I will end up either having to modify the rod on the booster, the pedal, or the bracket to make everything work right being that the truck is a 67....
On our Bullnose project, we are using the Wilwood 260-11179. It’s adjustable and they offer a bracket that makes it for a nice compact install. When I swap my front end on my ‘77, I’ll likely swap in one of these.
A friend brought me his '65 F100 (....err, part of his truck), for me to install a booster, brake valve, MC and to plumb all the hard brake lines on the entire truck, from the front to the rear.
He provided this aftermarket GM reproduction disc/drum brake valve for me to install.
The dirty booster in the photo is just for mock up purposes. The actual dual diaphragm booster that will be going on has been painted and is sitting off to the side.
I still have to run the hard line from the valve out to the right front caliper and the long line from the valve to the rear end but, I've already run the new line across the rear end that it will be joining to.
....along with (2) 25' coils of 3/16" brake tubing w/ fittings IF you're plumbing an entire vehicle (25' of tubing will not be enough to plumb out an ENTIRE truck).
does the distance from the master cylinder to the distribution block matter?
thr GM style prop valve is not adjustable. You need to buy one for drum/drum, disc/drum, or disc/disc. The distance does not matter from the master to the valve. You can mount them up on the firewall or down on the frame.
This might seem like a ridiculous question....but which port on the master cylinder is the front port and which is rear? Larger port further away from the firewall is front?
This might seem like a ridiculous question....but which port on the master cylinder is the front port and which is rear? Larger port further away from the firewall is front?
Depends on what MC you're talking about. On a GM Corvette MC, the port closest to the radiator goes to the front brakes. The port closest to the firewall goes to the rear brakes.
On a Ford MC, it's just the opposite. The MC port closest to the radiator goes to the rear brakes. The MC port closest to the firewall goes to the front brakes.
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