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If he changes gearing in the rear axle but not in the front and he attempts to use 4wd drive, the front axles would be spinning at a different speed than the rear which would cause issues. Unless I'm off base with ford trucks here.
The year before last I changed the gearing in my 2011 Dodge Ram and had to do both the rear end and the front gears to match.
Im I mistaken here? If so, I apologize for the bad info.
You're right about the axles; definitely need front & rear matching. It makes gearing changes costly if paying someone else to set them up, so it's a point well worth raising. Brian caught your error in saying "transfer case gears" as a mistake, where I thought you were off your rocker
Sarcasm? With 3.31s and 33s you can just put the transfer case in low and you'll be geared about right for the Interstate.
That's a bit of an exaggeration. But yes, the 5.0 needs to get into the right rpm range to be a solid highway driver. Re-gearing sounds like the right solution, but if you haven't re-geared a 4x4 before, a parts truck could be in order.
Sarcasm? With 3.31s and 33s you can just put the transfer case in low and you'll be geared about right for the Interstate.
Point missed again.
I agree with those that recommend a gear change. Not much you can do to a 5.0 to overcome your lack of gear,unless you went to some form of boost. Down side is, it's very expensive if you have to pay for the gear install.
I won't even think about a heavier wheel and tire without taking gearing into consideration. It puts a lot of strain on the drivetrain and MPG's if the gearing is not up to the task.
It seems like a lot of people over look this when wanting to go with a lift and heavier wheel and tires.
If if you want to "do it right" in my opinion, re-gear it. The transfer case gears are going to have to be done as well if your going to be using the 4WD as well.
If you already have a newer good running engine dropped in, seems to me the only option is gearing. Even if you did go with another engine the gearing would still be an issue.
Its gonna cost some cash, but if you want to keep that wheel and tire set-up......
Do you guys think you could get me up a list of all needed parts (front and rear axle) to swap to 4.10 gears? Any help would be greatly appreciated. And many people keep telling me to supercharge it, thoughts??
Belt driven supercharger would still need a gear change. Roots style supercharger or turbo would work with current gears, but now we're getting past bolt on stuff.
You have a truck that was built to be used as a car. If you need more truck, buy more truck. Ford built a lot of trucks, find one that was built to do the job
I wouldn't waste any money on a naturally aspirated 5.0 in a truck, so forget about all the bolt ons. Go straight to a supercharger, and things like long tubes and cam. If you have the money, get a set of good heads as well, at least gt40.
With, of course, 3.73 or numerically larger gears.
You have a truck that was built to be used as a car. If you need more truck, buy more truck. Ford built a lot of trucks, find one that was built to do the job
I believe the user was referring to the OP's truck, which is a 302/5.0 gas engine truck. And in that case, I agree. It's going to need re-gearing to give the kind of power he's looking for.
What is the gearing? The 5.0L doesn't have the low end torque to lug a heavy truck around, need to let it sing.
33x12.5 mud terrains on a lifted truck with a 5.0L is not going to net "good/decent mpg". I'd expect 10 in town, and no more than 15 highway if you're lucky. If improperly geared, the PCM will sit in "open loop" mode and just dump fuel, so counter-intuitively regearing to 4.10 or 4.56 could actually improve fuel economy.
Forget the cold air intake, throttle body spacer, and bored throttle body. The 5.0L is bottlenecked at the exhaust, not intake, so long tube headers are a good idea. Next up are the heads in terms of restriction; the E7 heads just don't flow a lot of air. But, not wanting to swap them on a healthy motor is understandable. Adding 1.7 ratio roller rockers can help with the stock cam, but if on a budget likely not worth it. If it were me, I'd regear and put long tubes on, while building a 5.8L to drop in when tired of the lack of low end.
You are exactly right. What brand long tube headers would you recommend? What gear and brand also?
My LT header experience was one of fabrication & modification, so I can't recommend the set I have (really bad starter clearance). I've heard Flotech fit reasonably well, but keep in mind LT headers are not a bolt on and they will require a new exhaust system to be made.
For gear sets, I haven't jumped into that yet. 3.55 with 32"s and a 5.8L have kept me happy enough. I've used Yukon axle shafts a few times with no failures. USA Standard is supposed to be good stuff. Make sure you know what you're getting into if planning to do a gear change yourself; it is not considered trivial and will require a few specialty tools. Many people swap entire 8.8 axles and D44 third members with the desired ratio already installed to sidestep setting up gears. That would limit you to 4.10's though, and that's if you could find a set. Otherwise I'd probably go with 4.56:1 (4.30 might be better but not available for the D44 TTB).
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