You feel confident in the last 6 steps of the process of modifying the injector?

4. VERY IMPORTANT: Use brake cleaner and compressed air to very thoroughly clean the lower injector body, especially the inside. Spray the internal parts of the injector down with brake clean as well.

5. Change the o-ring located on the upper injector body which seals the upper and lower bodies together, replacing it with the new oring supplied in the kit.

6. Dribble clean engine oil over the injector internal components, allowing it to run down and thoroughly lubricate the threads and oring.



7. Thread the new lower injector body onto the injector and tighten carefully to 65 ft lbs.

8. Re-clean the assembled injector with brake clean and compressed air, and install a new tip gasket and white external body oring from the supplied parts. Note that because the extended sleeve now covers the entire lower injector body, only one injector body oring is needed. There is no longer a groove for a second o-ring.

9. Apply a thin layer of grease to the tip (nozzle) area of the injector.

 

87 Crewdually, I did not replace the #4 injector. I did replace all the gaskets and the crush washer on the tip. I'll look into the Forscan tool.

TooManyToys, The batteries were fully charged before first firing and continue to read 12v or better. I did blow out the bolt holes on the holddowns.

bismic, I am fully confident in the injector housing swap I performed on the #3 injector.

 

Also, I might not have emphasied it enough in my previous post but the truck has zero power. It barely moves under it's own power. It's not an exaggeration, my 09' Camry could out pull my truck right now! Just me thinking, but even if #4 cylinder wasn't contributing the other 7 would create enough power to move along down the road. It might smoke like hell but it would still move.

 

Thanks for the response. Just to explain, sometimes you can get a "bleed over" contribution code with an injector that fires after the one having issues. #4 fires after #3. It was a long shot, but I was curious (firing order is 1-2-7-3-4-5-6-8 ).

As far as having "zero power", are the MAF, MAP, and VGT connectors fully seated?
Another long shot, but is engine oil level in range (ie checking for an injector dumping fuel into the oil)?
Air filter "filter minder" reading good?
Fuel filters changed recently and fuel quality checked?
Verified no leaks in CAC hoses?

The 85% VGT at idle is a clue I believe. It SHOULD BE in the low to mid 70's at low idle.

 

I appreciate the help and questions. I am lost right now. This is my first diesel truck and my frustration level is in the red right now.

Is there any value in running the truck with the head covers off to physically ensure injector engagement or look for blowby past the injector? Could the injector tip be cracked and would it be easy to see if it was?

 

I added some questions to my previous post - you may not have seen them.

I don't think running w/ the valve cover off would help you much, but others may see it differently.

Check the oil level as suggested earlier, and you might also do a cranking bubble test (cranking w/ the starter solenoid jumper wire or, if you use the key, remove the FICM relay to conduct the test).

 

I cleaned and seated the MAF, MAP, and VGT connectors. I was planning on cleaning the MAF sensor today.
The oil was just replaced and the level is good. I'll re-verify today.
I'll get some soapy water on the CAC lines to see if there is a leak today as well.
Both primary and secondary fuel filters were replaced while I was reassembling the engine.
Filter Minder is good.

What could be causing the VGT to 85% at idle.?

I'm going to pull the FICM today and clean the electrical connectors and verify the rods, lifters and bridges are all still good.

 

I'm not familiar with the cranking bubble test? Whats the procedure for that?

Also forgot to mention I replaced the EGR with a BulletProof H-CORE and replaced the water pump with a BulletProof model.

 

Video on the bubble test (failed injector)


Crank w/ the starter solenoid jumper wire (key off), it is easier on the glow plugs and electrical system and the FICM. If you crank w/ the key, remove the FICM relay.

 

Awesome, thanks! I'll start with the bubble test tonight and go from there.

 

Failed within the first two cranks! Does anyone have a line on endcaps that work for the fuel bowl?

 

 

Chances are pretty good that at least #4 injector is an issue, but best to do the testing.

It might be worth it to just remove the #4 glow plug and repeat the test.

When there is an injector failure like this Ford typically recommends replacing all injectors in the affected cylinder bank. This is because the bad injector can restrict fuel flow to the other injectors and damage them also. Lastly, you need to determine what might have caused the failure and correct any conditions that may have been a factor... like low fuel pressure, water or other contaminants in the fuel.

 

Like I alluded to in post 30, I agree with bismic. And so you understand what is happening is the faulty pintle on the injector is not sealing or the copper seal and lower o-ring have been compromised (B & C) so it is introducing compression gases into the fuel rail. It will do this the more it runs until it pushes all the fuel out of that head cutting off the cylinders on that bank. So eventually your barely running on the 4 cylinders on the other bank.
I had a video demonstrating this but I must of erased it. Here's what an injector looks like.